THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE 2016
Saturday 20th August
Today marks the journey to Morwenstow to commence my Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge. The day starts in turmoil at Redruth Station where ‘the whole world and its mother’ is trying to board a 5 carriage train bound for the Scottish Highlands. You’d think this time of year a couple more carriages would have been the sensible approach in providing a fair service to the high-paying travelling public. And once the Spanish students board at Plymouth there is no possible movement beyond one’s seat. Fire Risk! You wouldn’t stand a chance here!
Any way beyond Exeter the bus journey to Bude provided some solace in between much-needed catnaps (it was a two plus hour journey) though sadly deposited me at the town centre in pouring rain and gale force wind. When I say wind it wasn’t even possible to wear a bobble hat! Then finally it sinks in that there are no buses running to Morwenstow thus subjecting me to a ten-mile road march to reach the start point of my journey.
It is not unusual for me to have a warmup day before the start of a major challenge – the most I achieved before a walk was 47 miles – bit over-zealous on that occasion!
Passing a campsite, I enquire how much to pitch a tent – £30 plus is the reply – stuff that is my retort; Cornwall doesn’t need to be leisure capital of ‘Rip Off Britain’ – the tents worth less than that. Holidaymakers beware!
Continuing through Stibb and later Coombe Valley I gain some shelter from the on-coming storm. I see a sign for the Bush Inn, Morwenstow which says 2 miles – great I think, but an hour later I see another one saying Bush Inn 1.75 miles and so it goes on.
Two hours and three more sign posts later I finish the final mile to the village and locate the inn; at last I have sanctuary, good ale a hot meal and hopefully tomorrow a chance to start my walk along the famous Cornish Pilgrimage from Hawker’s Church to St Michael’s Mount.
Day 1 The Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 – August 21st – 26 miles
After a windswept night a sustaining breakfast at the Bush Inn sets me back on course for a new day as I head off in search of the official Pilgrimage starting point at Morwenstow Church.
The parish of Morwenstow gains much credence from its long association with Reverend Robert Hawker an eccentric vicar and poet who preached at the church from 1834 until his death in 1875. As a deeply compassionate man he sought to provide Christian burials for the many dead Mariners who had succumbed to the Kingdom’s most brutal coastline and as the Pilgrimage takes shape along the North Coast Footpath I find his little hut built of driftwood. Here he would spend many hours writing poetry and looking out across the Atlantic Anvil for those in peril on the sea.
A few more ascents lead me away from the past as the satellite dishes at Stanbury Point bring Cornwall into the 21st century. Further undulations take in Duckpool where I startle a hawk resting by the cliff edge; it takes off in front of my eye line and drops to a ledge below. On my next climb I speak to a couple of ladies enjoying their mandatory dose of exercise; by now many groups were parading the cliff tops as I encountered Sharpnose Point, Sandy mouth and finally Bude – now under siege of inclement weather.
I ponder long enough for refreshment at the Globe where the majority of holidaymakers appear to be taking shelter from our seasonal weather. Later I grab a pasty from a corner shop and across the road acquire a passport stamp at the Tourist Office. This no country for old folk! As the prevailing wind and rain fails to captivate even the most ardent bad weather enthusiasts and meets only the approval of local water fowl and a handful of seasoned fishermen frequenting the Bude Canal. The canal forms the preliminary stages of my walk to Langdon Cross and is the official start of The Cornish Way National Cycle and Walking Route. Although now benign, the canal once played a significant part in Cornwall’s Industrial Revolution largely transporting sand from the North Coast to inland farms where it could be used as fertiliser.
As the cycle route peels away from the canal it follows a course to Marhamchurch where I pause briefly to take a photograph of the church of St Morwenna. Passing through the village I continue towards Week St Mary, the next 4 miles of which are dominated by farmland. A herd of goats give their opinion of my effort and bewildered cattle stare at me as though I am some sort of anthropological curiosity – ‘Who’s this strange beast pounding through our countryside’. Soon normality is restored and grazing resumes. Thankfully traffic is minimal and with no facilities open at the village of Week St Mary I march on towards Clubworthy. I see a few signs for North Petherwin and during the final blast of the day I come across the billboard for the Otter Sanctuary; this provides me with a moment of solace too as I am nearing completion of today’s journey and at the next junction I cross to shelter at the Countryman Inn where carvery awaits which at least dispels some of the discomfort of yet another ‘Cornish summer day’.
Day 2 Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 -August 22nd – 21 miles
Langdon Cross to Five Lanes
After a laboured effort yesterday along the coast path and Cornish Way I was fortunate enough to be given a room for my toil at the Countryman Inn; a guest had failed to show up and I became the benefactor – ‘Fortune favours the Brave’ on this occasion and I certainly needed a shower and comfort to enjoy a proper nights sleep.
Rising at 7am I enjoy a good breakfast and plan my route for the day. It is something of a mixture starting on the busy country link into Launceston (B3254) where the narrow sections require a cautious approach. Stopping briefly at Yeolmbridge I mark up some sign posts with Pilgrimage stickers and then make steady progress to St Stephens Church. From here the road drops to Launceston Stream Railway; on the descent I pass Newport House where I had stayed on previous travels. The lady retired some years ago yet the place still evokes happy memories and I feel a sense of well-being each time I pass by it; I recall it being pleasantly antiquated and the lady proprietor was a lovely person of old tradition.
On reaching the railway I pause to take photos of the passengers waiting to board the noon train to Newmills Farm. I intend to visit the station in a while but for now I ascend the hill into town passing the old Norman Castle Ruin which remains Launceston’s most ancient landmark. Arriving at the Tourist Office I collect my stamp and the lady enquiries about this year’s pilgrimage and whether I stayed at The countryman the previous evening. I am happy to confirm a pleasurable stay there and after bidding farewell for another year I locate Sarah’s Bakery and stop for a coffee.
After the interval I return to the railway for a bit of old-fashioned nostalgia which makes my time in Launceston all the more satisfying.
After speaking to Nigel Beaumont, the founder of Launceston Railway, I obtain a special stamp from the platform shop. For a moment time stands still as I admire the old worlde advertising boards displaying products fashioned in a pre-decimal era when the waft of coal -fired engines was an every day event. Today the schedule runs on the hour every hour though to my sadness the train is presently en route to the hamlet of Newmills. Tregadillet is a mile uphill from Newmills which I make on foot along the byway formed from the railway bridge beyond the old priory. It is 2.5 miles to Newmills then a further mile to Tregadillet. At the top of the village is the Eliot Arms where a sudden attack of thirst prompts me to step inside. This inn was the starting point of my first big walk in 1992 and remains a popular meeting place. I recall a group called TWATS (Tregadillet walkers and train spotters) who took the train from Launceston to Newmills and then climbed the steep hill to the pub where they enjoyed sandwiches and refreshment. The simple pleasures still remain the most rewarding in life whatever one’s title – God Bless them!
My stay here was appreciated too, for beyond here lies a complex network of roads which I need to follow in order to stay clear of the A30. The first mile follows the old road out of the village where I cross at the roundabout to pick up the byway to Kennards House and the South Petherwin Junction. The diminutive road is less demanding as it veers away from the A30 leaving the din of traffic behind for awhile; it is well marked and ensures I make it to the junction without any bother. Turning right onto the busy B3254 is another matter demanding complete concentration and precise crossings to counter the narrow bends that prevail along this hazardous section. Two miles into the trek I cross a single track bridge, climb a hill which takes in another narrow section and at the top I bear right onto a farm track to Lewannick – phew – what a relief! The farm track proves to be innocuous without even a tractor to disrupt the 2-mile journey to Lewannick. After passing St Martin’s Church I grab a pasty from the Post Office and a pint at the local pub before returning to the task. The main road journey from here to Five Lanes is only 3 miles but the Pilgrimage adds a further 2 along the quieter byways and farm tracks. It traverses Kelly’s House and Plusha; then crossing the Callington/Bodmin Road I locate the farm route which is a mixture of woods, paddocks with a few scattered houses; the last mile follows the course of the A30 as it closes in on Five Lanes where I conclude my journey at the KIng’s
Day 3 The Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 – August 23rd
Five Lanes to St Kew – 21 miles
It was a pleasant evening at The Kings Head in Five Lanes last night and I slept well in the tent despite heavy dew and a ‘slug invasion’ at dawn. Today looks good and I enjoyed a full English Breakfast to get me back on the road with Altarnun just half a mile down the hill.
The gentle descent encompassed by woodlands sets up the day nicely and soon the church of St Nonna comes into view – behold ‘The Cathedral of the Moor’ as it is known locally, and more prestigiously, a title befitting of its grandeur. Altarnun is the archetypal olde worlde village with running stream and green but the church puts it in a world of its own and I enjoyed my tour inside where I met the warden briefly. After a cheerful interaction he signs my passport and I depart via the church footpath which leads to a country byway; from here I pass Nathania’s Pilgrim Hostel and later a little moorland pub called the Rising Sun. Bearing left I follow the road round to the Route 3 junction at Davidstowe Aerodrome. Here the slim trail skirts Crowdy Resevoir on its course to Camelford and along the way I see many cyclists, a few touring motorists and an abundance of sheep which frequent this wild, windswept terrain. I exchange greetings with other athletes enjoying their daily tonic of exercise and by 1pm I am making my descent along Roughter Road to ‘Arthur’s Kingdom’. The bright sunshine makes Camelford all the more welcoming and with time to relax I visit Jo’s pub, The Mason’s Arms and enjoy a peaceful beer in the garden. An hour later I make a further excursion to the Post Office to obtain some funds, then I am on my way again. Leaving Camelford, at the end of the cycle route I cross right to pick up the Trewalder Byway which passes Bowood Hotel and golf course. Beyond here I capture a glimpse of Lanteglos Church and then it’s off along the winding narrow roads associated with this section of the Pilgrimage. Villages are sparse here – more a spread of farm cottages broken by St Teath and Pendoggit – the latter I bypass as I make my descent to St Kew. The antiquity of this little village sizes up well with Altarnun complete with old church and inn of similar age. The masons lived at the site of the inn for ten years whilst building the Church of St James the Great and as ale was an important part of their diet they used the premise to brew their own. It must have ignited a good social forum during that decade because once they had completed their mission the old dwelling was officially licensed as a pub (around 1495) and is still known as St Kew Inn. I found the place delightfully intriguing and felt privileged to be able to camp the night on the pub garden opposite the iconic 15th century church.
Day 4 The Cornish Pilgrimage – August 24th
St Kew to Wadebride – 16 miles
Leaving the St Kew Inn, I take the steep ascent out of the village and then turn left onto the St Minver Road. It is much cooler today and I progress well along the byway ticking off all the appropriate junctions which form the Pilgrim Route. The rustic landscape ensures there is plenty of activity along these narrow lanes where tractors toil to move their harvest and I am quiet shocked to see a bus squeeze past leaving no room for even the slimmest of pedestrians let alone a tank like me! Re-emerging from a nearby gateway, I gather my composure and make light work to Rock where I stop to grab a sandwich. Both my feet are hurting – the left has a series of burst blisters covering most my heel (some of this was caused on last week’s Oundle Pilgrimage in the Nene Valley) and more concerning is a sore Achilles’ tendon. Ignoring the pain I plod on towards the ferry terminal with thoughts of visiting Padstow and its endearing world of Rick Stein.
Any hope of a swift crossing is soon dispelled on arrival at the shore where the whole world and its grandparents where queuing back to the road and half way up the hill. I really can’t see the pleasure in spending money on a holiday such as this which involves constant queuing.
By the time I reach Padstow I had lost the impetus of the day and struggle to make any headway through the crowd. All around people are queuing to spend the coin of fun – shops, cafes – even toilets – it was like watching cattle being herded along the street. I felt a sense of relief reaching the Camel Trail but it was short-lived as I could barely get going amid the throng of tourists who are clearly captivated by the sight of ‘two wheels’. Eventually I steal some grassland beside the trail and continue nipple high in cyclists. They come in their droves – all shapes and sizes – some of the ‘telletubies’ don’t look safe and are clearly traumatised by the experience; and there are adults that can’t even ride a three wheeler! Then of course you get the mandatory pair of ‘tanks’ who come along two abreast (and that was a sight for sore eyes!) bullying all else into submission; though I must concede it prompted a rye smile watching every one scatter into the vegetation! By the time I reach Wadebridge the mayhem of holiday season proves too much and so I decide to call it a day and attend to my feet. I book into the Swan Hotel for the night and on foot inspection find my right shoe is full of blood resultant from a burst blister – can’t believe it is that bad! A good scrub down and a spot of food soon puts pay to the discomfort leaving the rest of my day in front of the TV watching the cricket.
Day 5 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 25th 2016
Wadebridge to Pentewan – 27 miles
Leaving Bodmin around 9am provides a good start along a much quieter Camel Trail than yesterday, and I enjoy the early steps stopping for a moment to look at the old train station next to the town’s library. There are definitely no camels present along this track which is largely characterised by its connection with the old days of steam. Before the Beeching axe fell this section formed part of the Great Southern Railway which followed the Camel Estuary to its terminus at Padstow, now the fish processing halls which earn the town a healthy living (any one remember Rick Stein!).
As the journey progresses away from Wadebridge I enjoy glimpses of its former life; well-restored platforms and time tables set partially in wooded escarpment gave it the ‘look of a railway’. At Boscarne Junction I bear right on the pedestrian footpath which forms part of my route via Nanstallon to Lanivet. After crossing a bridge a group of children escort me uphill to the village and ensure I take the correct road. This forms from the left of the Boscarne Sign post and so I follow its course to the Bodmin/Lanivet Road. After a quick blast of traffic I reach the village and immediately call into the chip shop to order some lunch.
Like Camelford chip shop, this plaice is also known as the best chip shop in England! But I have to confess it is very nice. Progressing beyond here along the Saints Way I soon become familiarised with the rural countryside which is presently busy with harvest duties. Some of the roads are a but tight but I am able to use my climbing skills to keep out of trouble; trees and gates are generally ok but I find hedge rows and barbed wire fences a bit of a problem – welcome to modern life on an ancient pilgrim route!
The journey continues inexorably for most of the time interacting with hamlets and farm yards where dogs herald my arrival at each passing place. People also take note of my progress, and at Luxulyan a guy pulls up to say well done; we had met earlier on The Camel Trail when he was doing his morning cycle ride; he went on to say he had cycled to Lourdes in France last year and is keen to do the Camino de Santiago – good on him – what a great challenge for him to do!
Luxulyan Valley provides an inspiring late afternoon session amid wild beauty and refreshing sound of running water’; en route a train thunders across the lofty viaduct and beyond here I walk through the grounds of the Eden Project. The path on the far left continues along Route 3 into St Austell; it is also possible to continue to Charlestown and Porthpean; occasionally I use this route when I need to call in to Mount Edgecombe Hospice. Today I just follow the course into the town centre and later exit along the Pentewan Tramroad. On completion of the cycle route I follow the coast path to the Pentewan Campsite where the receptionist finds me a spot to camp (19.30pm) – and obviously I had a pint after that lot!
As Pilgrimage Season approaches let’s look back in time and take a glim9pse of what has been achieved and the difference that can be made in the name of charity with a bit of community forum. There are two Pilgrimages held in August; one in the Nene Valley and the other in Cornwall to be published next week on this page- this has a new and exciting twist! Both will host fun days on the Saturdays in Question.
The first Pilgrimage takes place between Oundle and Islip from 13th August.
WALKING THE OUNDLE PILGRIMAGE FOR SUE RYDER THORPE HALL
Founded in 2010 it has become an annual ritual to trek around a 46-mile course along the Nene Valley in support of local hospice Thorpe Hall and to show gratitude to the invaluable work they do giving palliative care to terminally ill patients.
During that time I have written 4 guides to encourage other participants to walk/cycle the routes on offer: there are two 6-mile family routes; a 40-mile cycle route; a six mile village pub route and the main guide with at least 4 different phases.
Having put Sue Ryder on the Oundle map with the Pilgrimage (with a couple of spin off events also) we have raised over £20,000 since its origination.
Several local athletes who have walked with me on previous expeditions around the British Isles have become regular participants though we feel the public should be the greater part of this event; after all it is about giving something back to humanity and generally creating solidarity within the local community. With this borne in mind we are endeavoring to host a fundraising weekend at the outer reaches of our Pilgrimage at Islip (this section was extended along the Nene Way from Titchmarsh Nature Reserve and rejoins the main route along a track to Aldwinkle).
The Fun Day will be held at The Rose & Crown, Islip, Nr Thrapston.
A few of us will be camping there on the Friday Night having walked the Southwick /Wadenhoe section; we will then walk the Barnwell/Polebrook section from Oundle on the Saturday.
Sadly our main centre at Trek-Kits has now closed but it will be possible to obtain passports on the day of the walk for £5 at Islip. There are guides available at Coleman’s and Oundle Bookshop and I will endeavor to set up a new Charity HQ in Oundle soon. We will also be publishing from our EBOOKS section at:
For more information about The Oundle Pilgrimage Visit:
FUNDRAISING FOR CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE
Circumnavigating the Maritime Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage for Cornish Charities.
Day 1 Launceston
Day 2 Altarnun
Day 3 Camelford
Day 4 Padstow
Day 5 Pentewan
Day 6 St Just-in-Roseland
Day 7 Lanner
Day 8 Gwennap Pilgrimage and Evening Fundraising Quiz
Day 9 St Ives
Day 10 St Michael’s Mount
I intend to walk the entire Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount which will take in a section between the two hospices of Cornwall Hospice Care; from Mount Edgecumbe I will walk to St Just-in-Roseland and camp; meet the Gig Rowers Club from Flushing at appropriate tide time to continue across the River Fal to Devoran; from the quay a group of walkers (and cyclists/equestrians) will aim to complete this section of the Pilgrimage at The Coppice Inn Lanner which will provide post walk entertainment/raffle draw.
1) Walkers; Gig rowing club: Contact Dave Matthews: email@example.com or 07932161677.
2)Walkers from Devoran to Lanner
3)cyclists; equestrians from Devoran to Gwennap Region; it would be nice to involve a local equestrian group to participate from Devoran to the Gwennap Region; they can saddle up at the Coppice or complete their journey at a chosen location in Poldice Valley if preferred.
To optimise the potential of this event we will need to do the following:
1. Obtain Sponsor Forms from co-ordinator Sarah Newton (Cornwall Hospice Care);
Tel: 01726 66869.
2). All participants are required to pay an Entrance Fee – £5 (Paid on the day to organisers). Also we are completing the Gwennap Section with a circular walk from the Coppice on Sunday for any one who may be interested – start 10.30am; entrance fees applicable.
3) At the Coppice Inn, Lanner we already have a fundraising quiz month throughout August each Wednesday night; this will reach a grand final on the eve of Sunday 28th and we hope to provide some light entertainment on completion of the main walk at Coppice Inn Saturday night; it would be a nice gesture if the public could see fit to pay £1 towards the cause; Also there will be a raffle draw at the pub – probably on the Sunday.
4) Online justgiving page to be posted on websites and Face Book pages.
5). Input from local companies who will subsequently get a mention in the publication/media. We will need Hospice Jars at all locations Relating to both the Pilgrimage and this individual event! Locally this is already in place.
We should look at obtaining a sponsor for Cornish Pilgrimage Shirts ‘Supporting local charities’ so we can properly represent the Hospices; local papers; networking sites; Cornish Magazines; Radio Cornwall; I’ll deliver leaflets for the whole Pilgrimage walk over the course of the Summer. We will finish with a Fun Day at The Coppice Inn (Incl Band, Raffle Draw, Book-signing and it may be possible to provide a BBQ or Pilgrim’s Supper).
1). Will set the Pilgrimage in the calendar as an annual charity event whereby we may do a different section of it or simply allocate the Maritime Leg as an August Venue. The route can be used by equestrians, cyclists and walkers/athletes; hopefully our enthusiasm and effort will pave the way clear for new participants to join us in future events such as our local Bank Holiday Walks.
2). There is a Pilgrimage Website with GPS maps for all nine sections.
3) Guides and passports to participate all available; posters and guides can be purchased at Gwennap Pit, St Day PO, Coppice Inn and in some libraries and Tourist Offices.
1). Encouraging the public to participate is hard when promoting endurance events – will need to spend more marketing on ‘ A Fun Day out’ with entertainment to follow. As athletes we have a duty to lead the way and donate our time through our hobbies to celebrate helping a worthy cause.
2). Events are largely funded through book sales but recently most of this has been donated to charity organisations. It would therefore be necessary for a business to step forward and finance printing costs and other admin. Keltek has looked after some of these requirements and I have funded the remainder (I only have a carers allowance to live on!)
1) Boxes and sponsor forms at the appropriate locations
2) Fundraising Quiz at the Coppice each Wednesday for Cornwall Hospice Care Pilgrimage Event throughout August Culminating with a Final on the Bank Holiday Sunday; the quiz team will continue to support the final leg of my journey to St Michael’s Mount scheduled to finish on Wednesday 31st August.
3) Live entertainment and raffle over the Bank Holiday Period.
4). The full pilgrimage journey will enable me to hand out flyers (printed by Keltek Brewery) with all info regarding fundraising events and opportunities to sponsor the charity. I will leave collection jars at my stopovers; also I can ensure the route is well-maintained and way marked throughout its entirety. I will try to win co-operation from the remaining tourist offices and libraries who have not yet supported the Pilgrimage and generally try to create more awareness/ exposure. Regions covered so far include: St. Ives; Redruth; Gwennap Pit; Falmouth; Truro; Parts of St Austell Bay; Padstow and North Cornwall. I guess efforts should be made to promote in Penzance and St Mawes. and Bissoe Cycle Hire.
5). It is essential we work with as many local companies/organisations as possible to receive good support for our efforts and to significantly raise the profile of Cornwall Hospice Care.
1). The tide will be a major obstacle when negotiating the creek at Devoran – so our co-ordination will be paramount!
2). Cyclists and equestrians should leave before the walkers to ensure a safer passage.
Please visit the following sites to obtain a greater insight into The Cornish Pilgrimage Route and ideology:
Follow Robin Moore on YouTube or visit ‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity on FaceBook’.
Starting at the Coppice we will walk a number of circular routes between 3-5 miles. Literature, books and guides relevant to the region, plus a few titles covering my overseas challenge walks will be on sale at the inn. Lunch menu is available throughout the week with carvery served until 3pm on Sunday.
The Coppice Inn at Lanner is proving to be a popular meeting place for walkers wishing to follow the old tramways/mineral trails and the Cornwall Pilgrimage Route along the Gwennap Region which is as rich in ancient history as it is in mining traditions.
Working with Lanner Council and the Coppice I hope to achieve a greater interest in local walks; it is a project which will also help build a good social forum within the community as well as a healthier lifestyle.
In addition to the Lanner walks will be hosting theme walks for each Bank Holiday Sunday in aid of Cornwall Hospice Care; these will involve walking the Gwennap Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage (10 miles) finishing with entertainment/live music and raffle draw at the Coppice afterwards. Also, I will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount during Spring and Summer months stopping at regional checkpoints each day; those who wish to indulge in a day plus of endurance walking can join me at any stage of the walk when we will also be promoting the Pilgrimage and CHC. During the course of the year we hope to hold cheque presentations to the charity with funds raised from our walks. These are usually four-figure sums; so far this year the Cornish Pilgrimage has raised around £500; all being well the next presentation could be after the Easter Gwennap Walk.
Visit ‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook’ for fundraising events.
NEW BOOK TITLES
Robin Moore’s West Coast Walk of New Zealand
Lanner Walks (volumes 1 to 6)
Hopefully the New Year will start positively with a few local booklets/guides followed by an account of my 2013 expedition on the South Island of New Zealand.
For further information and videos/books about walking please visit:
Also check out the new Lanner Website available in the New Year and the Coppice Inn Facebook page.
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Face Book’ and also YouTube for video footage.
For more about Robin Moore, Iconic Journeys (30,000 miles of expeditions), adventure walking books and travel guides visit:
SPRING NEWSLETTER 2016
The amount above represents funds raised in the Nene Valley during the 2015 campaign which comprised of the Oundle Pilgrimage for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall, Robin Moore’s latest European walk which supports Prostate Cancer Uk and Cancer Research. Special thanks go to Wendy and family at The Angel Inn, Oundle where the presentation was held; also to Simon at the Rose & Crown, Oundle; and Mark and Rachael at The Rose & Crown Islip. ‘I can only apologise for not working harder to raise the customary four figure sum but in mitigation I am now a carer for my mother so it is difficult to organise charity work away from Cornwall. I am however heavily involved in supporting local charities across the Kingdom of Cornwall.
FUNDRAISING FOR CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE
Robin Moore walks for local charities and National causes having completed 30.000 miles on foot to date since 1992. He has also written numerous adventure books and walking guides: see: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
His project The Cornish Pilgrimage is dedicated to Cornwall Hospice Care, raising awareness and funds for the charity as well as providing a good discovery route for Leisure/Recreation and Tourism.
THE CORNSH PILGRIMAGE
The advent of Spring provides the perfect incentive to get outdoors and enjoy warmer weather and lighter evenings. From Easter onwards the local community will be doing their bit to support Cornwall Hospice Care. Robin enthuses’We have already raised £500 from our 2015 Autumn effort and now aim to increase the fundraising purse to four figures by May. It is a realistic goal but would be a laudable effort to do this as the Gwennap Region is diminutive compared to the larger towns. I have raised thousands of pounds before at Carharrack and Comford so am confident this project will benefit the local charity.’ The complete 200-mile Pilgrimage of Cornwall is covered in 9 sections from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount along an ancient and modern route. It takes in cycle trails, old pilgrim routes, tramways, byways, canal, riverside and coast paths. Cycle access/alternatives are included in the guide or on our website: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
Starting at Hayle we hope to walk The Cornish Pilgrimage to the Coppice Inn, Lanner on Witsun Bank Holiday Weekend (Sat 28th May) – ‘Come and join us and help raise money for Cornwall Hospice Care’!
MAY BANK HOLIDAY PILGRIMAGE ALONG THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE
This section of the Cornish Pilgrimage Route runs for almost 15 miles along the Cornish Way Cycle Route via Gwinear, Camborne, Heartlands and the Gwennap Pilgrimage tramways. Off-road sections are covered on public footpaths and byways taking in ancient monuments and relics of industrial heritage.
This season’s fundraising started with great enthusiasm on Saturday 26th March with 8 Ball Boogie Band playing at The Coppice; and on Easter Sunday at 10.30, the first walk took place at The Coppice car park Lanner via the Tresavean Tramway and Carn Marth. We also walked on May Day Bank Holiday Sunday at The Coppice who hosted the motor bike annual rally. We will continue walking each bank holiday Sunday with a special event arranged for St Day Feast.
THE 2016 FEAST WEEKEND PILGRIMAGE WALK -Sunday 5th June
Raising Funds For Cornwall Hospice Care at The Star Inn, Vogue
VENUE: The Star Inn
DISTANCE: 5 miles
ENTRANCE FEE: £5 per person (this entitles participants to a Cornish Pilgrimage Passport and Certificate on Completion).
Using public footpaths and tramways associated with The Cornish Pilgrimage Route, this 5-mile walk takes in St Day, Crofthandy and Poldice Valley. We hope to break for refreshment at Scorrier before returning to the Star Inn via Mount Ambrose and Pink Moors.
For more information about The Cornish Pilgrimage please visit:
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Face Book and YouTube
All the events are sponsored by charity walker Robin Moore and KELTEK Brewery. There are collection jars at each pub and we invite our patrons to make a contribution to Cornwall Hospice Care in support of the event.
EBOOKS/NEW BOOK TITLES
Please visit our EBOOKS Section at http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
And purchase our latest colour booklets (print set up is as A5). New titles include the Pilgrimage guides and A Pilgrimage of War and Words based on a visit to the battle fields of The Great War. Forth-coming titles feature ‘A Pub Walk in The Nene Valley’ and Robin Moore’s West Coast walk of New Zealand.
OTHER INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
As well as our website and GPS maps of routes, we have walking guides available at our local inns: The Star Inn; The Coppice Inn and other outlets which include:
The Cornish Library, Redruth
The Cornish Bookshop, Redruth
The Lanner Council
The St Day Post Office
The main Cornish Pilgrimage Guides are available at some of the Tourist Offices en route and bookshops in Penzance and St Ives. We will endeavour to produce them on the EBOOKS page of http://www.robin-moore.co.uk and possibly Amazon at a later time in the year.
Videos of all of Robin Moore’s Pilgrimages can be found on YouTube and Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity Page.
Robin will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage throughout the Spring publishing and promoting his charity work. Any one wishing to join him on any part of the walk should look out for the itinerary post on his website and get in touch at either the Coppice or Star inn.
For the good of the community, Robin leads a volunteer litter-picking walk along part of the Gwennap Pilgrimage weekly on either Thursday or Saturday to help with the upkeep of our local footpaths. He also takes walking groups for tours along the Lanner/Vogue Region at weekends (some weekdays); starting from the Coppice Inn these include 3-5 mile walks catering for elderly social groups too (see website heading LANNEWR WALKS).
Usually our fundraising days are celebrated with entertainment at the inn afterwards which helps create a good social community forum; various local acts, cheese and wine evenings and folk nights/Cornish choir are included in the programme. We will update and advertise any forth-coming events
For more information about events contact The Coppice Inn, Lanner. Tel: 01209216668
The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2015 annual report for this blog.
Here’s an excerpt:
A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 1,100 times in 2015. If it were a cable car, it would take about 18 trips to carry that many people.
WINTER NEWSLETTER 2015/16
LOCAL WALKS AND FUNDRAISING FOR CHC
1) Litter-picking walk on 1st January 2016
We will be walking the Lanner section of the Gwennap Pilgrimage on New Year’s Day Morning leaving the Coppice inn around 11am. We will be active along Tresavean and Carn Marth as far as Pennance Consols Mine; and on descent along Pennance Lane as we return to the Coppice where we plan to indulge in some New Year refreshment.
2) Lanner Strollers
Starting from Thursday 10th December at noon and most Sunday Mornings from 10am I will be available as a guide to lead walkers keen to explore and enjoy many of our well-kept foot paths and mineral trails. Starting at the Coppice we will walk a number of circular routes between 3-5 miles. Literature, books and guides relevant to the region, plus a few titles covering my overseas challenge walks will be on sale at the inn. Lunch menu is available throughout the week with carvery served until 3pm on Sunday.
The Coppice Inn at Lanner is proving to be a popular meeting place for walkers wishing to follow the old tramways/mineral trails and the Cornwall Pilgrimage Route along the Gwennap Region which is as rich in ancient history as it is in mining traditions.
Working with Lanner Council and the Coppice I hope to achieve a greater interest in local walks; it is a project which will also help build a good social forum within the community as well as a healthier lifestyle. In addition to the Lanner walks will be hosting theme walks for each Bank Holiday Sunday in aid of Cornwall Hospice Care; these will involve walking the Gwennap Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage (10 miles) finishing with entertainment/live music and raffle draw at the Coppice afterwards. Also, I will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount during Spring and Summer months stopping at regional checkpoints each day; those who wish to indulge in a day plus of endurance walking can join me at any stage of the walk when we will also be promoting the Pilgrimage and CHC. During the course of the year we hope to hold cheque presentations to the charity with funds raised from our walks. These are usually four-figure sums; so far this year the Cornish Pilgrimage has raised around £500; all being well the next presentation could be after the Easter Gwennap Walk.
Other presentations to be held in the New Year include:
The Oundle Pilgrimage Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall – venue:
The Angel Inn, Oundle, Peterborough
Funds raised for Prostate Cancer and Cancer Research UK
will be presented at The Rose & Crown, Islip and The Angel Inn, Oundle.
My walk in South Africa has been cancelled owing to my mother’s failing health. Although I am still walking around Europe any expeditions in the immediate future will be minimised to just one week as it is all I can do to arrange overnight nursing care. Routes normally include: Camino de Santiago Trails, Mountain passes. cycle routes and riverside paths. Passport for proof of passage is required and I keep a video diary and blog, which is later published as a book. One of the pleasures is to take numerous photos of landmarks along the way; some of which I paint/sketch or use as book covers. The average walking day is about 50km (often done for charity), sometimes camping rough if the situation demands it. Any one is welcome to join me as long as they are prepared to obtain their own sponsorship – but be warned these expeditions are not for the faint-hearted!! (my companions in South Africa and UK will vouch for this!!)
NEW BOOK TITLES
Robin Moore’s West Coast Walk of New Zealand
Lanner Walks (volumes 1 to 6)
Hopefully the New Year will start positively with a few local booklets/guides followed by an account of my 2013 expedition on the South Island of New Zealand.
For further information and videos/books about walking please visit:
Robin Moore on YouTube
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On FaceBook
Also check out the new Lanner Website available in the New Year and the Coppice Inn Facebook page.
AUTUMN NEWSLETTER 2015
WALKING EUROPE AND FUNDRAISING
The Cornish Pilgrimage – raising awareness for Cornwall Hospice Care
This event was originally founded as a discovery trail of Cornwall to be enjoyed by locals and visitors alike though I wanted it to be associated with the local charity which I have supported since the Millennium. This year’s pilgrimage took place over August/September and there is a collection jar at the Coppice Lanner for locals to support my walk. I have been building a support network along the way from Morwenstow to Land’s End so we hope for bigger things to come from this in the future. Meanwhile the Coppice wish to give me support in fundraising and we hope to have a Harvest Auction there as part of my fundraising for the charity. For more about Cornwall Hospice Care visit: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
Walking for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall
This year The oundle Pilgrimage took place on 9th/10th August and we will be holding a fundraising presentation evening at The Angel Inn, Oundle at the end of the month and will launch the MOVEMBER campaign at the same time. Please support my walk by donating to the Sue Ryder Jars at all the regions inns and local businesses associated with the Oundle Pilgrimage. For more information about the Oundle Pilgrimage visit: oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
Walking For Prostate Cancer
The Angel Inn collect money from my walks and have a jar in the pub please make a donation when you are next there; The Rose and Crown at Islip support all my walks and have Cancer Research and Prostate Cancer jars also. I have put some serious hard work into the last week which was at times life threatening – so please help all of these worthy causes where possible!
Please read about the expedition below:
Walk 2015 – Arnhem to Luxembourgh starting- Tuesday 22nd September 2015
Day 1 Arnhem Nijmegen – 20km
After a sleepless night at the airport I arrive at Eindovhen, catch a bus to the train station and manage to get the two connections I need for Arnhem. Then walking away from the station I find a cenotaph which commerorates that great battle of September 17th 1944 – ‘The Bridge to Freedom’. After recording my visit I cross a bridge to the Arnhem War Centre where I chat to the tour guide who is a fantastic host, making me a coffee and discussing my present journey through war-torn Europe which had been decimated by two horrific World Wars. On leaving the centre I continue across the bridge and follow a cycle route over an 18-km course to Nijmegen. As the route winds its way in and out of the course of the motorway cyclists becomes the main hazard; they fly past in all forms; motorcyclists without helmets. canoe-shaped and plain old-fashioned with baskets. As I encounter the siege of cyclists bad weather too became an issue, After stopping for fruit at a local grocer, I cape up for a heavy bout of rain and make my way towards the city of Nijmegen. Crossing a 2 km bridge the trail overlooks the city railway network and a couple of extensive barges plying the waterway below. Later stopping at a cafe I meet a guy who runs a cleaning business called DE UITBLINKER which specialises in window cleaning. After enquiring about a campsite he offers to put me up thus sparing me the ordeal of pitching a tent on the outskirts of town and later we go into town to clean some windows!
Day 2 – Nijmegen to Verden – 65km
After a good night’s rest and great hospitality from my kind host who spoke excellent English I am off to a flyer at 7am! The morning is dull and damp but I make the most of a gun barrel straight cycle trail as fas as Gennep. Here I am apprehended by “InterPlod” who are not keen on me walking their highway. It is all very amicable and once they direct me onto a cycle route beyond the nearby embankment we shake hands and I continue to Heijen where I purchase my first coffee of the day. The sun is now shining as I set off on my quest to reach Venlo which lies another 40km from here and yet I have walked already 25km this morning!
Another 10 km encounters the communities of Afferden, Bergen where I purchase a salad and bottle of water for lunch and near Well I have anther coffee around 3pm.
Drifting on through many small communities the day passes by as I cover nearly 60km and as dusk approaches bringing rain I camp in a woodland by the road – 5km short of Venlo.
Day 3 Verden to Heinsberg (Germany) 55km
Amazingly I wake to a dry morning and tent; with all these positive elements to spur me on I make ground to Venlo where I enjoy a good breakfast at Prins Hendrik Cafe; from here I try to locate the Tourist Office for assistance with my route. It is a vibrant town and the main centre is presently undergoing a bit of TLC. Continuing along the cycle route I manage to find my way out of the town and the sign posts now register Roemond which lies 23 km from here. The day passes quickly though for most of it I am under siege from the constant flow of cyclists along this flat open countryside. People are kind and helpful and the sublime architecture of the older places break up the journey and help to relax my mind. My walk to Roemond went quickly having enjoyed Telegen and all the riverside views as and when they appear. Away from the water I reach Pumerholt where I stop for coffee and a rest from the back-breaking pack which has dug its way into my shoulder blades. Leaving after 6pm I encounter a shower and the overcast condition bring about an early dusk. As I march against clock with darkness iminent I find myself approaching Heinsberg and with it comes my first border crossing which sees me on German soil; feeling tired I check into the first hotel I can lay my hands on and call it a day!!
Day 4 Heinsberg (Germany) to Nr Eupen 53km
It’s a brighter day as I prepare to set off along the B221 for Aachen near the border of Belgium; this I find on the outskirts of the city. Soon I am walking the trail and for once I am not nipple-high in Dutch cyclists! The morning unfolds nicely amid windmills and sunshine reaching Geilenkrichen around 11am. After coffee I head off in blissful isolation taking in many villages and towns where I find it difficult to link up with the correct route out of each place. At last Aachen is within my grasp – 10km and on this find I treat myself to a MacDonald’s Happy meal before heading off to visit the last big town in Germany then a crossing into Belgium.
The trek through the city lingers on and I have to get help from a young Asian lad who guides me to the Eupen Road. After some interesting side roads and city bustle I manage to leave Aarcen behind and head out towards the Belgium Border. By dusk I am entering a new Frontier and walk to the next town where I purchase groceries; a few km from here I set up camp in a field by the road.
Day 5 Eupen Region to St Vith – 56km
After a damp mirky start I reach the town of Eupen and locate the route to St Vith. There are no cycle routes today and for most part I walk a steep incline as the road takes in forest landscape associated with the national park Hautes Feignes. The region harbours no communities and I do not get any refreshment until reaching the restaurant at Baroque Michel – a lonesome landmark that stands out on this busy highway. After coffee and water I leave in search of a better route to St Vith via Robertville where along the way I see many other walkers at at the local tourist office it transpires that this is the highest point in Belgium – much loved by walkers, cyclists and all that frequent this beautiful area that retains a distinct German influence. On descent the temperature increases and I remove some layers and it is heart-warming too to see many restaurants and along the way. On reaching the beautiful lakes of Robertville I am still 23km from St Vith plus some extra to reach the Luxembourgh Border. After a coffee at the Aubergue de Lac I continue towards the town of Waimes.
At Waimes I locate the cycle route to St Vith which runs for 17km with no places en route though I saw a group enjoying a party midway through the journey. The scenery is amazing viaducts spanning tiny communities fed by the N676 and green pastures dominated by woodlands. The journey drags on into the darkness and on reaching St Vith I am greeted by noisy engines at a rally drive which the town is hosting. No chance of staying here and after grabbing some provisions I leave on the Luxembourg road and camp up near a wood where I am kept company by a braying deer!
Day 5 St Vith to Hosingen Region – 47km
Setting off in the early morning mist I am fortunate to find a hotel open to obtain a breakfast and coffee. The road is a harsh master and the journey is one of toil against constant traffic including Sunday joyriders. The day lingers and 20 km on I finally cross the border in to Luxembourg where I enter the town of Whimperaarct and promptly go for coffee at a nearby super store. After refreshment, wash and change, I am on my way again using the E421 as my route into the city.
My feet are very stiff now and my incapacity to walk properly has caused my left knee some trouble so I strap it up for the remainder of the day. The scenery is a blend of forest and farmland broken by high power windmills which are a popular source of energy. By teatime I stop for a coffee at a shopping mall and with light still good on this sunny day I head off with my quest to walk until dusk. It remains light until after 8pm by which time I can barely walk any further and after purchasing groceries at a garage I set up camp in a wood nearby.
Hosingen Region to Luxembourg – 70km
Traffic continues through the night making me uneasy about the journey ahead. Rising at 6am I take to the road which at first is pleasant enough. I use the tracks beside the highway as my passage occasionally losing my way but always ending up back at the highway. At Ettelbruck I visit a WW2 Site and take photos before heading off in search of the cycle route. I pass through tunnels, busy sections of main road but on joining the cycle route I find peace and tranquility beside the railway line. Reaching Luxembourg around 6pm I still have 10 plus km to reach the main railway station in the city centre-tough hike! I get there at 8pm and manage to book my journey home via Paris starting at 5.42 am the next day. Looking back on my achievement I have walked over 330 km in just over 6 days starting and finishing at a railway station. Like Michael Portillo I have a passion for railways but am not sure he would stretch his legs quite as far as I have to visit one – or even two!
Please visit Robin Moore on YouTube
‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook’
If you can’t help these charities please could you share this post.
SPRING NEWSLETTER 2015 – ‘Robin Moore’s Pilgrimage of War and Words’ offers a message of history and peace for the good of charity raising £1125.
The cheque presentation held at The Angel Inn, Oundle represents fundraising from Robin Moore’s Pilgrimage of War and Words which commemorated WW1 in September/October 2014. The walk also marked a completion of his expeditions around Europe and the British Isles covering over 25,000 miles. He has walked in other continents too and around several countries exceeding in all 30,000 miles including Barmy Army Cricket Tours (he was a founding member at Adelaide in 1995 when England won the test match to keep the series alive for the last game at Perth). As well as his passion for cricket he enjoys the countryside and history and has always been an extreme athlete with a love for sport too.
It was an interest as a youngster in the 60’s to recognise the sacrifice of those who fell in the Great War and Robin knew many WW1 veterans (including his grandfather and great uncle) at his home at The Angel Inn Oundle where he grew up; he will soon be publishing a book about his amazing journey. ‘Although the quest goes on with many walks planned for the future we still need time to reflect on the past which has also seen the end of a personal era too. My Auntie Marjorie, who died recently at the age of 91, was one of my greatest supporters and friends also donated generously to the Cancer Charities after my Uncle Eric died of the disease in 2000.’ As well as helping Robin, she recently pledged £10,000 to Macmillans, £10,000 to her local charity; also £264 was raised at the funeral service for one of Robin’s fundraising charities from his recent walk, Sue Ryder Care. Other organisations that benefited from the expedition are Prostate Cancer UK; The Cornwall Hospices and Cancer Research UK. The WW1 Walk was set up originally for a local Cancer Appeal in Peterborough, PCTA which is largely fronted by friend Mark Folgate of Oundle who is the Fundraising Executive and major supporter of the charity. Robin’s expedition helped raise awareness for the charity and his book will be dedicated to the appeal.
Extracts of the book are printed below (historical content refers the first year of the Great War) For more about the wonderful life of Marjorie Jones please click on CANCER CHARITIES when you visit: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
ROBIN MOORE’S PILGRIMAGE OF WAR AND WORDS
Geneva to Ypres – WW1 Walk – September 2014
‘The Early Shots’
August 1914 saw the Battle of Mons,
As Britain and Germany sent fourth their sons,
Soon to be cannon fodder and casualties of war,
Shedding blood on a scale never seen before.
Reeling through France came the British retreat,
Shielded by the cavalry who turn up the heat,
Those gallant equestrians, adrenalin-fed,
Push back the big guns till all are dead.
But the Kaiser’s war machine continues to roll,
Crushing forests and towns as the guns take their toll,
Gone are the romance and glamour of war,
Replaced by trenches, barbed wire and gore.
Gas, gas, gas a ‘Tommie’ cries,
As the Battle of Ypres takes on a new guise,
The Prussian Guard advance strong and steady,
Like a ceremonial parade, but with guns at the ready.
The British fix bayonets and the guard are speared,
Fighting hand-to-hand till the woods are cleared,
By dusk the guard lie dead in great knots, swathes and heaps,
For them the war is over in this first battle of Ypres.
Poem by Robin Moore.
Dedicated to those who fell in the first year of the Great War.
Commemorating WW1 a century on, Robin Moore sets off on a 1000km trek across Switzerland, France and Belgium which will complete a circuit of Europe and the British Isles. Read how his adventure unfolds each day and learn about the historical places of interest he encounters.
Dominant Mountains That Preside Over Europe
Geneva to Hotel Bellevue, Gex
Starting my walk from Geneva city centre, I make my way to the great lake which borders France and Switzerland; then after running a video commentary near the ferry port and fountain, I continue beside the water. It is a perfect late September day; sunshine with a breeze from Lake Geneva allowing a pleasant initiation to this historic walk. Although the war did not affect this region I planned to start here so as to link this expedition with my previous one in March when I walked from Geneva to Arles. A century ago WW1 was well underway having commenced in August; The First German Army had already penetrated the borders at Belfort and Luxembourg; then spilling all across Belgium. By the end of September they had taken Liege, fought the BEF at Mons and the French on the Marne. These places I hoped to see a week or so from now but for the time being I am pondering all sorts of thoughts about weather, what I will see along the way and where I will stay each night. As the journey unfolds, I pass through several small parks, occasionally stopping to absorb the changing scenery and around noon I take a cycle route away from the lake towards the mountainous French Border. The road becomes busy though broken frequently by colourful towns and occasionally my gaze is drawn towards the sky where air traffic is in motion too. I am 5 km from the next village when a local walker joins me; he is astonished when I tell him I am walking to the Menin Gate! He shuffles off quietly on reaching his destination and after continuing to the end of the village I seek help from a hotelier who points me towards France. In the distance lie the Jura Mountains which I feel will test me over the coming week. Soon I cross the border, and with little to get excited about other than a sign post marked ‘France’, I continue uphill towards Gex. It is an arduous trek in the heat as I struggle with a 50lb load, and lack of sleep at the airport the previous evening also adds to the discomfort. Once I am confident of my route I start to feel much better and on my last ascent, which sees me only 27km from Morez, I decide to take refuge at Hotel Bellevue. it is a large building owned by an enthusiastic ex-marine commando whose father fought at Verdun during the Great War. He shows me his father’s picture and medals and later I begin writing my book with a beer on hand while the bar maid tells her local patrons of my endeavours.
Hotel Bellevue, Gex to Morbais
Starting in hot sunshine I continue my ascent across the Jura Mountains; there are no war monuments or battle fields here – just a slow grind through steepling countryside as the towns and villages of yesterday disappear behind a curtain of mist. Even traffic flows by at a leisurely pace and the lorries chug along cautiously as the journey evolves by way of the narrow pass. It is an laboured affair during the morning where at times the diverse terrain reminds me of New Zealand with its collaboration of forest and stern peaks. The afternoon brings respite with a cool descent beyond the St Claude Junction; by now I am hitting towns regularly and make use of the facilities available to enjoy a coffee break and the chance to pick up a few provisions.
At La Cure I rouse some curiosity as I deposit my backpack on a park bench outside the Tourist Office, change my socks and eat a sandwich. Soon I have an audience comprising of a touring party who had seen me walking earlier; after explaining the purpose of my journey I show them my WW1 passport and a publication about a recent expedition. After wishing me well they depart and their distant waves see me on the way to Les Rousses and later Morez where I purchase groceries for tonight’s supper. A further ascent along a busy road section completes my day at the campsite in Morbais. Although the amenities are now closed for this season the club owner allows me to stay the night and I am able to purchase a drink from the Bar Brasserie known as ‘Chez Nous’, where the locals are enjoying some lively banter amid the smoky atmosphere of a ‘barbie’. After completing the final day’s entry in my diary amid a background of contemporary disco music, I retire to a more peaceful location beside the campsite stream.
Bar Brasserie ‘Chez Nous’ Morbais to Veiux Chalet Champagnole
Rising to a dew-soaked morning I roll up the tent and take a shower at the wash room which is still unlocked despite the closure of the site. A cooler start makes walking bearable as the continuation of steep ascents set the tone for the day. The first few days of any walk always present a challenge but I am grateful to find this route is broken nicely by interspersing villages. As the road narrows the terrain becomes more demanding and yet diverse affording sheer drops of many hundreds of feet; it is awe-inspiring peering down onto treetops as they disappear into a bottomless chasm. Reaching the next summit I stop at a park to relax in the shade and study my map. Recommencing my walk I dodge more traffic by crossing the road at each bend and take in the changes of terrain as each new town approaches. Reaching Champagnole I collect groceries and beyond the town, not far from my next route, I stop at a public park and camp for the night; there is a terrace of houses on a suburban lane where I hear a party celebration in progress. Next to the park entrance is a shop where I buy a bottle of wine and ask the owner to uncork it. Sitting on a bench by my tent I eat a supper of cheese, olives and salad washed down with wine as dusk closes in across the mountains and all becomes quiet beneath the stars.
Veiux Chalet, Champagnole to Samson
Rising to bright sunshine I dismantle my tent, use the toilet facilities at the park entrance and then proceed along the main road to the Salin Junction. This section follows minor roads throughout the morning and with little else open on a Sunday, I take my first break at a restaurant in Salin-le-Bains. From here the heat is unbearable though the scenery, comprised largely of forest mountain landscape broken by a spectacular viaduct, and the audio presence of running water help serve as a delightful opiate. As the traffic dies down the sound of jingling bells from ascending cattle add a different tune to the journey. En route I meet another traveller who had passed me earlier in a car heading for Champagnole; he hails from Verdun and speaks good English. Intrigued by my quest he takes photos and a video which he posts on his Youtube/Facebook pages to give me a bit of support and hopefully some media coverage for our charities. Before departing he hands me some fruit and a bottle of water; then wishes me well for the remainder of my trip. As evening draws close, I meet a group who also supply me with water and an offer to camp by their recreation centre where their friends are playing bowls. Feeling that the day is incomplete, I thank them for their trouble and press on to the next village called Samson. On arrival I am fortunate to purchase cheese and wine from a grocer shop (Bulangerie Courtois) which is about to close, and a further 2km north of the village I camp at a field beside the road. I find a sheltered spot near the hedgerows which conceals me from the public eye. Feeling satisfied with my effort I relax
with my provisions and listen to the sounds of dusk as a new world comes to life.
Samson to Rioz
Disappearing off the radar at dusk is quite important when camping rough in order to rest and recuperate sufficiently to gain a few hours sleep.
A misty morning brings cooler air as I tackle the busy main road with caution. It is a tedious session and I am glad of a coffee break at Larnod around 11.30am. Sitting outside the cafe, I enjoy a few moments as a spectator. It is a pleasant interval watching the world go by as people greet each other with an embrace and friendly chat. I ponder over the reality that there would have been many young men recruited for WW1 from these rural parts of the continent. I wonder too what the bar conversation of that time would have entailed as these little meeting places have always been the soul of a community. Soon the road beckons and I prepare to return to the task. The next ascent exposes me to distant river scenes and before entering the urban sprawl of Beure I stop at a lay-by to rest from the speeding traffic. Sadly the second part of the day disintegrates as the road network becomes complex around the industrial realms of Besancon. After taking a wrong turn I receive directions from a lady at a nearby school and descend to the outer regions of town. Soon I am walking on the main road to Vesoul having failed to locate the byway I need to keep on course to Combeaufontaine. A sense of apathy creeps over me as I fear the momentum of today may be lost along this dangerous highway. Continuing in fear for my life and with motorway instructions imminent, I am relieved to reach Rioz by nightfall. After an extensive ‘reccy’ I realise there is nowhere to stay; so I put up a bivvy outside the campsite which is closed, and fetch a takeaway meal from the only place that is open in town.
A Countryside Devoid Of Time
Rioz to Combeaufontaine
Sleeping through sheer exhaustion and uncertain what to do, I visit the police station for help. They are great! Once issued with a coffee they give me a route planner to cover the next 2 days which promises a rural journey along the quieter byways/cycle routes as far as Jussey. Then after receiving an official Brigade De Gendarmerie stamp on my WW1 passport, I set off in good stride, feeling grateful for their efforts to help me. The route takes me through the remainder of the town and passes under the motorway where it bears left by a country park to join the D33. As the day unfolds I begin to appreciate a pleasant scenic journey through rural France in contrast to the initiation along the steep mountain pass, and mad motorway of yesterday. This more refined route allows me passage through many small villages such as Fondremond with its old abbey and unique water features; later I visit Maizieres and Traves where I am happy to enjoy my coffee breaks amid a rural atmosphere. I even stumble across a Camino de Santiago route which interacts with some of the more ancient communities. There are lone bridges and wide river crossings; archaic buildings with eloquent gardens and festooned streets prompting me to make good use of my camera. On reaching the quaint little town of Combeaufontaine I pick up some groceries, and with the hotel closed for renovation, I set up camp 2 km north of the village in a paddock beside a forest.
Combeaufontaine to Lamarche
The early morning pattern of mist continues as I dismantle my tent and wander carefully along the road. The one problem I face today is obtaining enough water and provisions in these rural parts where it seems that the inhabitants live with a degree of self-sufficiency. Passing through numerous communities over the last week I notice allotments, small-holdings and farm shops which open only in the morning; though later today I manage to get adequate supplies at Jussey. After obtaining road information from the Tourist Office, I visit the cenotaph which is the most conspicuous so far, revealing the names of the war dead who had fought in great campaigns such as Verdun, Le Marne and the Somme; monuments such as this will be commonplace throughout the remainder of my journey. Resting at a bench near a road junction I eat a salad meal which I purchased from the local supermarket; at present the town is a lively scene of folk shopping and socialising in restaurants and cafes. Jussey is an unusual, yet welcome break in this quiet, rural section of my walk which gives more of an insight into farming traditions. With each road spurring off to a new destination I continue into the wilderness not seeing another shop or restaurant for the remainder of the day. There are moments too when I feel as though this countryside has transported me back to a former age – devoid of change or the passage of time. Only speeding motors and farm machinery betray the secrets of an environment where people enjoy their allotments and orchards which have kept them self-sufficient for generations. Nearing dusk a group of youngsters at a small village direct me to a tap by the church where I obtain fresh water. Later on course for the final 6km to Lamarche they track me down on bicycles to give me a king size water bottle for the night. It is as though they know I am facing a tough evening and I am quite taken back by the kindness – it is the highlight of the day – God bless them.
Lamarche, like all that preceded it since Jussey, is another dead place – rundown hotels which are closed – no sign of life any where, and on leaving the town I quickly find a quite spot near the woods to set up camp for the night.
Lamarche to Neufchateau
I am shattered having completed a week on the road at 12 hours per day with each night under canvas – I need a proper sleep! The dew fell heavy over night but as the mist clears the day heats up draining me as I struggle to obtain water. Eventually I manage to acquire a bottle at a farm where the owner also gives me some fruit for sustenance. I only have a 37km walk today but the heat and lack of food make it slow work. Reaching a village fountain I leap into the water to cool down and enjoy a good soak. The locals appear bemused though I try to explain it is more pleasurable to do this now than at 6am – though I did summon enough courage to attempt a shave in a water butt one chilly morning! Life on the road is full of innovations where good health and survival are the only way forward. Rejoining the road I stop to ask a local couple for water; they kindly invite me into their garden for a drink of freshly squeezed apple juice curtesy of their orchard while I explain my quest and what it has so far entailed. They are astonished to feel the weight of my pack – ‘Vingt kg?’ exclaims the lady! After bading farewell I make good progress along the industrial perimeter of Neufchateau, reaching the town centre by 5pm where I promptly book into the local hotel, Le Rialto – 52euros. The lady signs my WW1 passport but refuses to give any discounts – explaining that they were reserved for those with Camino de Santiago credentials. At least I enjoy a proper night’s rest with the promise of a breakfast in the morning.
Neufchateau to Vaucouleurs
After a night in a hotel I actually feel more tired than usual and after my breakfast I struggle in the heat. I make hard work of the morning session to Domremy but enjoy a good coffee which is a boost to morale. After the break I get into a steady rhythm and the afternoon drifts by amid the drone of harvest machinery as farmers toil to make good the land. Reaching Vaucouleurs I pass an old military hospital founded in 1916 for the soldiers of Verdun; a few metres on is a cenotaph and a brightly coloured mural decorating part of the church. It is early evening and I feel as though I can press on further, but wary of the previous times when short of provisions I opt to visit the supermarket first to get food and refreshment. From here I am content to walk a few km beyond town where I set up camp on the edge of a forest next to a road junction.
Poignant Reminders Of The Great War
Vaucouleurs Region to Rouvrois Sur Meuse
Starting in heavy mist I concentrate hard for the first 10 km and cross a bridge into Void where all is still quiet on this Saturday morning. Not able to get coffee I press on to Commercy and enjoy a bustling market scene which to a ‘man of the road’ is a breath of fresh air. Feeling energised by the moment I walk through the slender streets to the beautiful town centre and its lofty architecture. Here I take coffee and marvel at the crowds thinking to myself that Commercy most definitely lives up to its name. Before pressing on to St Mihiel I visit a war cemetery harbouring those who fell in the battles of the Marne, Meuse and Verdun – here I get my first glimpse of the effects of WW1. Battles raged on around these parts throughout the Great War where the Germans came within 50 miles of Paris. So desperate was the plight of the French that commander-in-chief, General Joffre hired every cab in Paris to rush troops to the front line. This drastic action enabled him to successfully launch a counter-attack along the River Marne on 4th September 1914 which halted the German war machine. Sadly though, the great French dreams of a triumphant offensive to end the conflict did not come and the misery of trench warfare followed with pointless combat in ‘No mans land’ until the end of 1918. Beyond here are many places with war graves but few with shops though I manage another at coffee at a bar and later a cake at St Mihiel. Along the way there are more cenotaphs and memorials to the Great War; most significant is the Roman Camp at St Mihiel which was taken by the Bavarians despite brave fighting from the single unit left there to guard it; it was later freed by General Pershore during a Franco/American offensive. Beyond the town is another war cemetery and a tablet on a hill defining the battle at Troyan Village in September 1914. Six miles on I find the only hotel between St Mihiel and Verdun thanks to the help of a local lady. Merci beaucoup!
Auberge du Chaudron Fleuri to Verdun
I am glad of a good sleep at the hotel and keep some of my supper for this morning’s breakfast realising that there are so few facilities out in these rural parts. Today is also Sunday and a wet one at that as I walk all the way to Verdun ticking off the cemeteries en route and trying to imagine the scenes of battle along the Meuse. Over a hundred years ago tanks would have rolled through broken woods towards the river against the sound of cannon fire and machine guns. Today could not be more contrasting as the landscape presents a peaceful arable scene that bears the solitary murmur of a tractor. Only the weather identifies with history in that the day stays damp and miserable as it may well have been a century ago. Reaching the outskirts of town I begin to wonder when I will come across a place to enjoy a coffee! Joining the thoroughfare I find a solution to the problem at Macdonalds where I also tuck into a cooked meal – burger and chips and use the wifi system to upload my video diary– good old Uncle Ronnie!
Heading into town I pass the spectacular Hotel de Ville accentuated by its bold, sumptuous facade. Further on I find a grocer shop that is open and later visit the Tourist Office where the attendant stamps my passport and provides information about the town’s war history. Continuing across the river to the gated town entrance I watch a boat race reach its conclusion amid enthusiastic cheers along the river bank. Passing through the gated entrance I see a different section of the town which is largely commercial with modern shops, restaurants and a few dated buildings; most of these are residential interspersed by several reasonably priced hotels. On the whole this is an ideal base for war historians wishing to explore one of the most catastrophic theatres of war ever known.Tourism here is largely derived from the devastation of the Great War which has intrigued so many over the last century. Some are drawn here to find lost relatives who fought in the campaign; others visit to try to make sense of the huge loss of life which occurred during what was the most modern war of its age. The whole region conveys a poignant message and as the night continues I pass more cenotaphs and a vast war cemetery where the visual evidence of a desperate struggle is quite conclusive – those who fought here knew real hardship and suffering! As the white tablets fade in distance dusk approaches bringing more wet weather. Finding a field suitable for camping I descend to the woods where I stay dry and free from the noise of traffic. A mackerel salad accompanied by a drop of wine finally caps off the day helping me to drift into a deep slumber for the remaining hours of darkness.
Verdun Region to Inor
Waking after a night of rainfall I make the most of the clear visibility in the morning and later obtain a coffee at a bar near Charny around 10am. The bar which is next to a park attracts a few visitors, and the locals express curiosity at the sight of ‘a lumbering backpacker’ in pursuit of his quest. After exchanging greetings the patrons enjoy looking at my passport stamps while I take a wash and shave in the disabled toilet. As it turns out this is the one and only opportunity to have a coffee break as the trend of no facilities continues; during the last week I have come across many places closed for renovation, sale or simply brought to a standstill through lack of trade. Even at the town of Dun sur Meuse everything is either closed or under repair and the only place I can obtain water is the chemist! Eventually my efforts are rewarded at Stenay where I find a supermarket and buy all I need for tonight. A few miles on at Inor I finish at the campsite where a night under canvas costs only 4euros. I speak to another traveller from Germany who is also visiting the battlefields. I had seen my fill of cemeteries over the last few days including a German one which I located along the D964 earlier this morning. Unlike the white tablets that represent the Allied soldiers of the Western Front, this cemetery contains rows of black crosses. Inscribed on a plaque is the story of their demise and there is a memorial to them above the steps to the entrance. After a further chat with the proprietor I cross the road to the local pub and write up my diary on what turns out to be the most productive day on tour so far – realising over 50km.
Inor to Sedan
During the night torrential rain forces me to abandon tent and take refuge in the wash room. Packing a wringing wet tent and clothing is not the best start to the day and my initial steps along the road lack the normal enthusiasm that I need to meet this challenge. The nightmare continues as rain and traffic disrupt the journey, though I pass through some historic places which helps break up the monotony; Mouzon with its medieval archway entrance and wonderful church add a depth of history dating back 2000 years. Although a bit autumnal I enjoy my visit consuming raisin bread and milk beside the river; after I follow the bank back to my main road route via the D954. Occasionally I stray from my route and take a village trail; this is usually counter-productive yet often necessary to relieve myself from the stress of traffic. The last two days have seen many beautiful water scenes where tributaries form from waterfalls and canals spur off the river following the course of the road through more towns and villages. For a while I get a chance to walk close to the river bank; I stop at a lock gate to eat some chocolate and later watch fishermen casting from a bridge. A shoal of large chub in the shallow water catch my gaze and I shout across to the fishers to cast further out. Another place dominated by water (and once again from the sky too) is Sedan, my destination for today, where I am fortunate to find a municipal campsite. Although closed the care-taker does not object to me setting up camp under the games area where I can at least stay dry! He and his wife wish me well and give directions for tomorrow’s journey which will take in the busy region of Charleville Mezieres.
Sedan to Bourg Fidele
The pattern of wet continues and I promptly stop for coffee at a sports cafe on the edge of town where todays travels begin. I use the facilities for a wash and shave then from here I toil on through the suburban areas of Charleville Mezieres stopping three more times for coffee to take refuge from torrential rain. I pass through Flize which on a good day may have been a bit more inspiring instead of wet and grim like all else today. As my journey finds momentum I notice a burnt out house along the thoroughfare to Charleville but on reaching the town centre I am pleasantly surprised by the spectacular architecture which sets it apart from the rundown towns of previous days. I pause for a while to savour a moment before heading into many more miles of countryside and diminutive communities. In pouring rain I search for the exit from this busy city as teatime traffic nears its peak. The weather does not ameliorate as I march beside the puddled carriageway but by early evening I locate the correct junction and take the D22 to Renwez. It is a quieter affair along the country road where the only significant landmark is an old fortification at Erat. Finally I reach Renwez where to my horror the only hotel I have seen all day is closed! All too often nearing dusk I find myself in this predicament – particularly on this current expedition and with more wet weather imminent I face the prospect of camping in a muddy forest. This I do several miles on but eventually the storm that has stalked me all day finds its quarry and my tent fills with water soaking everything. Now in total darkness I am subjected to a cold, wet and sleepless night.
The Last Charge
Bourg Fidele to Chimay
The nightmare continues and I can barely keep my eyes open as I decide which items of equipment are no longer serviceable. The tent is of no further use and was in any case just a glorified ‘bivvy’ used normally in summer months; I also scrap some of the more worn clothes that are too sodden to dry. Finding a bakery en route I purchase a ham roll and ponder over my predicament; at least I will be crossing the border into Belgium soon. On this note I press on to the next village where I am escorted to a sports cafe by 2 cows – probably an early milk delivery! Cafes in Europe are deemed social places where all visitors are made welcome! They peer through the door and soon gather an audience as we tolerate their company long enough to take photos. After my coffee I march them up the road as far as the square where they stop to investigate a new curiosity. Happy to leave them to their own devises, I continue my adventure in the direction of Rocroi. There are roadworks near the town entrance though thankfully the thoroughfare is more intriguing defined by numerous flags, elaborate features and eye-catching monuments to the left. After visiting the Tourist Office at Rocroi it rains again, so I retire to the Hotel de Commerce to write my diary with the aid of more caffeine. Rain eventually subsides and I move on from the town; the terrain remains typically rural and in the afternoon I pass Le Cafe de La Frontiere and cross the border into Belgium. The road is quiet with only a few broken communities and rundown hotels. Joining the main road I make steady progress to Chimay where I purchase groceries (still French-speaking) but have difficulty in finding anything that resembles an hotel; on making an inquiry at a local residence the family kindly offers to let me stay the night.
The lady is a nurse who works nightshift and her son who speaks good English is planning a walk with his girl friend in Spain. Later his father arrives and we chat and drink as I explain how far I have walked during the last 20 years. They are a very kind family who extend their hospitality to sharing their meal with me which I am very grateful for. Despite a rude awakening to the day, I sleep well tonight knowing that my faith in humanity has been well and truly restored.
Chimay to Mons
My hosts had dried my damp clothes overnight and this morning give me a good breakfast before setting off on an ambitious journey to Mons which revisits the early days of Britain’s WW1. To mark the occasion we take photographs at the house and then I visit the local market to video the activities as the day gets underway in good stride.
Well the task of reaching Mons which is 58km from here seems a little unrealistic yet I feel confident I can get close and should in any case find a hotel along the way by dusk. The morning goes well stopping at Beaumont (26km) at lunch; this vibrant town has many facilities and a good social forum, though it is far too early to stop. I do however rest at a cafe and contemplate the next part of the journey wondering what new experiences lay in wait. Excited about reaching Mons, I enjoy the following session ticking off all the villages thereafter. The Kaiser’s violation of Belgium’s Peace Treaty saw Britain’s enter WW1 and during that time my grandad and great uncles all joined up serving in Northampton Regiments. My grandad, Charles Thurlby was only 14 but like many others altered his age and fought his first battle a year later in Constantinople. My great uncle Ben who owned a scrap yard in Oundle was gassed during a France/Belgium offensive. Ben survived and lived in a caravan at his yard well into his seventies until being attacked and robbed by youths; he died shortly after. Charlie fought again in WW2 but died in the sixties through poor health – predictably the wars had taken their toll. Other family members were killed in the Great War and there were many people I knew from Oundle who fought in these campaigns. One man Billy Duke who lived in a hut beside a paddock used to help my parents at the pub and later lodged with our neighbours. Then there was ‘Nobby’ Smith from the ash cart lorry who lived well into his nineties. What ever future life evolved beyond the trenches these men could never hide the scars borne from this dreadful war; most would have found it too difficult to talk about. Inspired by their brave deeds I soldier on feeling grateful to be here and finding a fruitier by the roadside I purchase bananas and an orange. I am able to pick apples most days as the trees still bear fruit which provides a welcome treat along the way. As darkness approaches I struggle on expecting to find a hotel but realising that I had yet to find one that is open in Belgium! Before long I am entering Mons next to the cenotaph laid by the British and Canadians at the end of the war. Mons was the first battle fought in WW1 by the British who quite literally stumbled on the positions of The First German Army. Their infantry came on in great numbers but where gunned down by the fusiliers of the BEF who had been trained in rapid fire and use of machine guns. The success was short-lived and German artillery fire sent the BEF reeling back through France all the time screened by the cavalry whose bravery and altruism helped preserve the BEF as a fighting force in the field. Four years on in this bloody campaign the German war machine was finally halted and the assailants kicked out of Mons by the Canadians who made a valuable contribution throughout the Great War. Across the road I pass an Irish Cenotaph and continuing into the centre I see many epitaphs and personal reminders of the War. Around midnight I come across the only hotel in this part of the city – priced at 100euros – no thanks! Instead I find a park with a lovely dry spot under a conifer which shelters me from the dew and feeling grateful for comfort I drift into slumber.
Mons to Tournai
Having overslept I amble to a nearby cafe which is opened early to accommodate the Saturday market. This is the only commercial activity I come across as I begin to focus on the day ahead. In fact it transpires to be an even later start as the town is not open for business until after 10am; I need food and the tourist office before I depart from here! Eventually I purchase a breakfast at ‘Uncle Ronnie’s and obtain adequate directions for the last section of my walk from the Tourist Office. Leaving in torrential rain I pass through November 11th Street, onto Parc Road and then join the N50 to Tournai. Slow and arduous is how I describe it as the road transforms into a trickling stream though I am lucky to find a cycle path by the river which I use for part of the way. A huge barge passes by and I think to myself ‘Don’t see many of those frequenting the River Nene.’ The width of the vessel would almost certainly breach both banks of our little country river unlike the waterways here which compare to crossing an ocean. Water is certainly in vast quantity for all concerned along this present route, and when the sun finally appears at Bescecles around 4pm I still face a further 20km to Tournai. Stressful it becomes too! Feeling miserable, I remind myself why I am here and think of those who marched before me a hundred years ago. It is difficult to imagine the horrors of war and what they had to put up with, but soon my problems pale into insignificance. Eventually the rain abates and I manage to buy a fish supper 6km from Tournai. On arrival it is the same old story- no hotels/hostels and so I retire to yet another conifer tree in a park opposite a shopping centre; it is the best option given the circumstances. Surrounded by mud, the tree droppings at least provide a dry surface to lay on, while the density of the branches conceal me from main road traffic and late night party dwellers. Given these advantages and the ebbing flow of traffic I manage to steal a valuable ‘forty winks’ in the warmth of my sleeping bag.
Tournai to Roncq
Waking to the commotion of a Sunday Market at Tournai, I join in the fun at a nearby cafe which is presently a hive of activity and commerce. Feeling invigorated by the experience I make my way out of town filming some of the majestic architecture which gives the place its character. Having survived the Great War, ancient and modern blend well in these parts; all the old world cafes have embraced technology and I have no difficulty in constructing a facebook video diary along the way. The road is a less dramatic affair as I tick off the villages en route, find the necessary ‘pit stops’ for coffee and treat myself to a meal after crossing the border into France. I am now bound for Roubaix where I hope to reconnect my journey through Flanders via the Menin Road. Reaching the urban swirl I continue along the busy streets which are a mix of rundown flats and fast-food facilities in what appears to be a largely Muslim Community. I see a cloaked man walking barefoot in the road as he tries to avoid a raucous crowd – it is busy here with many intersections to cross. My journey slows down for a while but eventually I reach Tourcoing where the streets are a maze of captivating architecture. After finding a grocer shop and purchasing provisions, I feel as though the day is near its end. Unable to find a receptionist at a nearby hotel, I take on another section which at least ensures my route to Menin. I stumble down a hole in the embankment and damage my hamstring; continuing lamely I am fortunate in finding a budget Hotel-Premiere where I feel happy to retire for the day. It is only 40 euros including breakfast so at last I can relax, attend to my injury and enjoy the comfort of a bed having walked 150 km for the privilege of sleeping in it!
Roncq to Ypres
Leaving the Premiere Inn after a substantial buffet-style breakfast I walk the N8 to Warelgem which provides reasonable passage despite being under siege from commuter traffic. Bearing left at Warelgem, I cross the road bridge and I walk into Menin. Promptly finding a restaurant I enter for coffee and attempt to chat with a few of the locals; one of the guys, called Jules Coppelle, had spent time in Canada in the 60′s and still speaks good English. He buys me another coffee and takes a photograph to mark the occasion as we continue to chat. Leaving the cafe around noon my journey takes shape along Iuper Street which leads me out of Menin as I follow my course through Flanders Fields. There are now pavements to walk on and a few villages en route; eventually we encounter the Ypres Salient where I visit a cenotaph on the right. A bit further on is a museum containing Great War relics and archives; opposite is a cemetery harbouring many of those who fought in the last battles of 1914. The contestants of this battle front where the BEF who had regrouped at Zonnebeke and stiffened up with Commonwealth troops against the hand picked elite Prussian Guard who had pledged victory or death. It is said the guard came on magnificently – almost as if they were on a military parade; only mortality defied their courage as they fell in their ranks against the murderous machine gun fire of the British Fusiliers. This was a do or die battle to save the Channel Ports and it is impossible to imagine the carnage and consequences resultant from this desperate struggle which only served to widen the conflict. The chaos of backup troops arriving to the front line with the guard breaking through the forest; officers panicking as they try to lead counter-attacks to clear the woods. Hand to hand fighting continued with bayonet and pistol until finally dusk fell upon the victorious remnants of the BEF who had managed to hold their positions; before them lay the guard dead in great swathes and heaps. It should have been the end of the war but instead battles raged on until 1918; new weapons were employed; gas, high explosives laid by tunnellers and the discovery of the tank added to the misery of the ‘tommies’ life on the front line. Despite the innovations of a new age, tactics often remained dated as old generals steeped in Crimea and Boar War history blundered there way to the battle fields. The romance of war, deeds of gallantry and childhood dreams of adventure soon disappeared beneath the mud and barbed wire of Flanders Fields. Young men were wrenched from theirs families and propelled into a war that was fought in Hell. All along the Menin Road I saw poignant reminders of the Great War and a mile from Ypres, by a Commonwealth Inn I take an excursion to Hill 62 at Zillebeke where the Canadians fought battles between 1914-16. Passing Wood Cemetery I come to a museum which is also a restaurant; further on I find the cenotaph; from here Ypres sits only 2 miles from the field which would have been a sobering concept for the public to deal with throughout the conflict. Returning to the restaurant I chat to the maid about finding a hotel in town and spend a moment savouring the day with a coffee. There are many archives here, and on leaving I take photographs of the artillery outside; then head back towards Wood Cemetery and the Ypres Salient. Finally I conclude my pilgrimage at the Menin Gate where a great lion sits proud above the cenotaph reminding the world of the ultimate sacrifice made for peace. It is a stark paragon showing insight into the oddity of war and yet its true horrors and reality could only ever be known by those who stood in ‘No Man’s Land’. This is the most sacred place on Earth to a military man from the British Empire – an epitaph of epic proportions – one that would require a week to read every name inscribed. The soldiers names are all that remain of them though their souls live on in the heart of Ypres where locals and visitors commemorate their loss each night at the Last Post usually performed around 8pm.
We will remember them – God Bless them always!
‘The Apathy of War’
Remembering the mud at Passchendaele
In an Autumn offensive doomed to fail,
The loss of life that came to us all,
In another pointless battle which saw many fall,
My nostrils fill with the stench of death,
And gas too, as I struggle for breath,
Flooded are the trenches in the pouring rain,
To fight a battle here is totally insane,
Finally the guns fall silent offering a peaceful hand,
Now poppies grow tall in ‘No Man’s Land’,
Across the world bells toll with joy,
But whatever happened to our beloved boy,
Where are the young people that we all love,
Are they happy in heaven above,
Taken so young is our greatest pain,
How can our world be the same again,
The war to end all wars came at great cost,
Dynasties shattered and a generation lost,
Our boy will never age nor again march or roam,
For he lies with his pals in Flanders Fields and won’t be coming home.
Poem by By Robin Moore
Dedicated to the soldiers who never came home.
With the last post still ringing through my mind the train journey across Flanders and then Lille to Calais gave me much to reflect on having now completed a 35,000km circuit of the British Isles and Europe. To finish the last leg of this circuit along the WW1 battle fields one hundred years on makes my effort more significant and historically rewarding; I have seen poignant plaques and cenotaphs; learned of the brave deeds of our ancestors who were selfless and altruistic in the face of battle with an undying sense of duty. Even though I have met many of these brave men as a child I could never have envisaged their plight or the misery of the trenches, mud and barbwire. It should have been the ‘War to end all Wars’ but sadly it seems humanity has failed to learn this lesson; or is it simply that we are only capable of solving our problems through conflict. A hundred years on, we can only show deep respect and gratitude for the sacrifice of a generation and pray no such war will visit humanity again.
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1914 TIME LINE – the opening stages
28th June – Assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand – Austria-Hungary declares war on Serbia.
1st August – Germany declares war on Russia
3rd August – Germany declares war on France
4th August – Germany violates Belgium Neutrality – Great Britain is now at war
7th August – German forces march into Leige
16th August – BEF lands in France and sets up HQ at Amiens
21st August – BEF crosses into Belgium – Private John Parr, aged 16, is the first British casualty at Obourg
22nd August BEF take up positions at Mons – Cavalry Divisions are engaged in battle with the German Hussars
23rd August – The Battle of Mons Salient where the Germans attack on two flanks
Apparition of the ‘Angels of Mons’ follow the BEF in retreat through the Marmal Forest towards Le Cateau
September – Battle of the Marne
November – The First Battle of Ypres
Christmas Day Truce – British and German troops meet in ‘No Mans Land’ to celebrate Christmas.
Follow Robin’s walk from Ypres to Nantes (via Arras/Somme) in part 2 of A Pilgrimage of War and Words.
PERSONAL DEDICATION TO MARJORIE JONES
THE CADBURY’S ANGELS – Celebrating the life and times of Marjorie Jones.
One late day in July saw a new gift of life,
Born to this world that had seen much strife,
The Great War had gone parting families and friends,
But as an old era dies, a new one begins,
Now the winds of change blow quieter here,
Where the folk of Bournville are kind and sincere,
Like a song that celebrates a brand new face,
Comes free spirit and energy that make a good place,
With compassion and love they valued each day,
Forging friendships at work the Cadbury way,
It was a time of happiness, joy and great fun,
Especially for young Marjorie who loved every one,
The old widows of war had a family again,
Working with the young helped ease their pain,
Among chocolate and raisins life was such fun,
On the sports field too, playing cricket in the sun,
As time marched on this community grew strong,
Bolstering the friendships that remained life-long,
‘The Cadbury’s Angels’ they became to be known,
Iconic in a workplace that they viewed as their home,
But people move on just as the world will turn,
And as this song ends we look back and learn,
Not to forget, and treasure dearly those days,
With the Cadbury’s Angels and their fun-loving ways.
Written by Robin Moore as a Tribute to Marjorie’s wonderful life at Cadbury’s where she viewed her friends as an extended family. She will be sadly missed by all she knew – Marjorie we will always remember you. God Bless you.
Day 1 Geneva to Le Mont Sion (Neydens Region)
Mental start!! Several hours of walking round in circles – nobody has a clue where the French border is let alone a pedestrian route there! Thankfully a young lad stops and pulls out his mobile Sat/Nav. and thanks to his intervention all is well as I progress to the border via Carouge. At dusk I camp in a field which lies between the river and road – freezing cold and a few hours after settling I have a police visit. Thumbling in the dark for my passport amuses them and after commenting on my accent they leave me to shiver for another few hours.
Camping on wet mud gave little comfort and at dawn I continue my walk as far as an hotel where the proprieter offers me a free breakfast. We chat for awhile and in between serving her customers she sorts me out with a decent route in the form of ´The Famous Camino de Santiago´ – many of these paths I have walked before during my travels around the continent.
Day 2 Charly to Frangy
A 2-mile hike from the hotel leads to Charly where there is in fact a Gite dÉtape for pilgrims – a hostel for pilgrims providing a free bed and stamp for your passport. From here I set off up the steep, muddy lane which I´m glad to say is clearly marked. From a height of 760metres the pilgrim route – GR65 takes in La Motte, Charnouy and Contamine-Sarzin. Despite being very damp and muddy – similar to conditions you´d expect in the UK right now, it became warm once away from the cold wind that is prevalent in this stern mountainous region. By 3pm I come to a standstill at Frangy and book into a hotel for 35eu – at least I can enjoy a ´policeless´peaceful warm night´s sleep.
Day 3. Frangy to Chanaz
The Swiss alps continue to dominate the landscape bringing the cold winds which dispel any thoughts of camping. The terrain remained muddy and a steep rural blast between Le Grand Pont and Syssel is enough to blow out the cobwebs of a good nights rest.
The afternoon session encounters the small places associated with Le Bourget du Lac, and at Pont de la Loi I am overtaken by an equestrian group. There were many cyclists too – largely following the National Cycle Route which at times interracts with the Camino de Santiago. There is a pleasant river section that leads to the village of Chanaz which seemed like a good point to break off for the day. At the Gite de Chanaz I pay 10eu to camp but in fact spent most of the night in the warm changing rooms where I am able to get a few hours sleep – frost suggests it is still too cold for camping!
Day 3 Chanaz to St Genex Region
Leaving around 7am, I manage to purchase a coffee at the village and then I make my ascent away towards Yenne – 18km. Pausing momentarilly I capture the mountains poking through the mist evoking yet another scene of unvisited beauty. As the cold air disperses it becomes another glorious day but I have difficulty in obtaining food and water as shops are scarce in this region. As the afternoon drifts on I get tired and thirsty – often knocking on doors to obtain water from locals. The mountain route was desolate and at times unforgiving – winding throughout the forest where snow lay all around. Eventually I descend from Mount Tournier yet there is little that ressembled a community let alone a shop – only the churches remain prominent here. On my next ascent I stop at a solitary cottage which was in fact a guest house still closed for winter season.
The lady, Annie stopped her painting chore to refill my water bottles and on hearing that I planned to camp suggested I stayed at the cottage – this was a far better option to camping and although not yet open and heated it was a great comfort to me and Annie was very kind ensuring I was well nourished after a gruelling day on the GR65.
Day 5 Guiers-Cotenvert (Annie Latge) to Voiron
It would be another month before Annie can expect visitors walking the Camino most of whom hail from Austria and Germany, so she was happy to stamp my pilgrim passport and acknowledge me as the first walker of the ´season´- God Bless her.
After a lovely breakfast at Annie´s I made short work getting to Saint-Genex-Sur-Guiers and was soon walking up the river bank to Aoste where fishermen were enjoying a calm sunny morning. The Camino route proved difficult to follow at times and in the afternoon I found myself on the cycle route which led me on a massive excursion to Les Abrets which should have been just 5 km away and yet took nearly 4 hours to walk! Unhappy with this and not certain of the direction to Lake Paldeau I completed the evening section on road as far as Voiron where I camped rough on a farm track just beyond town.
Day 6 Voiron to St . Hillaire-du-Rosier
Happy to continue by road today, I would endeavour to rejoin the camino either St Antoine-lÁbbaye or Valence where the path follows the Rhone for the remainder of its course.
After walking 13 hours yesterday I feel tired – not helped by another cold, sleepless night. It is quite hot today and I stop frequently for coffee and water, as the sun nears the top of the mountains I enjoy a tiny little knap at a picnic park between Teche and St Sauveux. Passing St Marcellin I take a wrong turn but thankfully realise and retreat and make good in the final hour. At St. Hillaire du Rosier I see a small hotel along the thoroughfare and am lucky to stay there for 30eu.
Day 7 St Hillaire to Valence
Continuing my journey along the remainder of the D1092 I enjoy a warm morning to Romans sur-Isere where I change route and now walk the cycle track beside the N532 dual carriageway. It is slow progress to St Marcel-les-Valence as I set off in search of another great city. As the road winds through the city I take time to explore and photo the prominent landmarks. After obtaining a geographical fix on my exit across the river to the opposite bank where I can join the Camino to Arles, I retire to the Lyon Hotel where I pay 38eu for a room.
Day 8 Valence to Cruas
A bottle of vin rouge and a good night´s rest was all I needed to recupperate and once across the river I was soon stepping out on the camino route along the Rhone to Beauchastel. It remains warm with an added presence of equestrians and cyclists, who as locals probably frequent the route daily. There was a solitary boat along the river and after the morning stint I stopped for coffee at a club-style cafe where the jukebox played ´We´re all living in America´! After ´´feeling chilled´´ out by that experience I continue my journey to Le Pouzin which is shared by towpath and road.
Everything converges on this place and the session that follows takes me to nightfall and I am lucky to stay at the Cruas Campsite which lies on the Camino Route which is only a few metres from the river bank.
Day 9 Cruas to Bourg St Andeal
It was another night in the changing rooms I´m afraid as the evenings here are still cool, unlike the day which is always full of promise. The first part was a bit misty as I encounter the EDF Power Station. I get lost a few times trying to get beyond this point but once on course I put in a good stint to Le Teil. It was a less enjoyable affair to Viviers where at least I got some provisions for the evening.In the heat I try to focus on the chalk clifs which obscure the Rhone and as the chill of night draws in all was at peace once again. I saw freight trains pass by all day and walked through concrete towns -´literally´ – places that have evolved from the cement industry which now provide a strong economy (at least 3and 1) and good foundations too – I hope! On reaching Bourg I get a room at a local hotel and enjoy a meal of bread and cheese which I managed to buy at the last town.
Day 10 Bourg to Laudin
Using the cycle route I walk on to St Just where I have coffee and Raisin bread for breakfast. At Pont-st -Esprit I sit on a bench and enjoy a picnic and then take photos of a statue which commemorates the local men who fought in the Great War. The nearby Abbey sees me on the way again with a few signposts for Arles to add momentum. At Bagnols I run into trouble trying to follow the Camino de Santiago to Laudin and I find myself on a circular cycle route which puts pay to the evening session. By dusk I find a lonesome hotel in the region of Laudin and call it a day. I was glad of the room but the wine I ordered cost me 20eu!!
Day 11 Laudin to Graveson
A tough day now beckons in order to make up for the previous bad evening session and this time I will see it through along the road. I am able to use the hard shoulder and make light work of Avignon but walk round the town a couple of times so as to be sure I was on the correct route to Arles. Looked more like a motorway but was in fact a modern dual carriageway which eventually diminished into the usual bog-standard secondary route which at times can be a bit too narrow. After collecting provisions at Graveson I walk on to a peaceful location beside the canal and set up camp just before dusk – it was lovely – and warm for a change.
Day 12 Graveson to Arles
Good sleep and a great start – no traffic until reaching the industrial outposts of the ´modern Arles´´. A kind lady treats me to breakfast at her hotel and later I spend time exploring ancient Arles. I was so captivated with its charm I spent the night there and got my coach to Spain on Monday instead where I immediately started a 5-day walk from Valencia to Alacant which would take me to completion of a continuous circle of walks around the country! Read more soon -will also be publishing on EBOOKS later in the year, walks on the continent will be available in this section.
WALKING IN SPAIN
Day 1 Valencia to Cullera
Commencing a new adventure in Spain around 7am, I first had to find directions how to get out of Valencia. A road sweeper assists and soon I am walking the underpass which runs through the city gardens. When I run out of city and foot path a young maid points me in the right direction and soon I emerge at a narrow lane next to the motorway. I run into some gypsies who were less helpful but a local guy confirmed my route and I was soon on my way. It was basically a cycle trail weaving in and out of the smaller coastal places the first of which was Pelida where I stop for coffee. At the next stop the motorway becomes the CV500 which caters for allcomers making my journey into El Saler a straightforward one. Beyond here I have water to my right which is strange as I am walking the Mediterranean coast and it should be on the left! There are sluice gates ahead forming a dam, and I wonder whether it is a fish farm.
Later in the day I reach Cullera and get a taste of resort life which is the main attraction of this coastline. I sustain myself with oranges picked from the trees and decide to walk through the town.The idea paid off as I found both campsite and supermarket and spent a lovely peaceful evening there for just 7eu with only a family staying here at the top of the pitch.
Day 2 Cullera to Olivia Region.
I sleep well despite heavy festivities from a nearby saloon. The constant sound of explosions signal the advent of a bank holiday which the Spanish will celebrate passionately. The cool air was welcome as I eventually leave the town (there was tons of it!) and soon I joined the N332 coast road, my route for the remainder of the journey. By noon it is hot and there is a motorway section to encounter between Xeresa and Gandia. At Gandia I follow the coast road into Daimus and Olivia where the celebrations are at a peak. I had drunk youths driving motorcycles at me and then taking their hands of the steering bars, explosions going off all around and people barely able to walk because they had ´´over-celebrated.´´ It was great fun for most of us!
Leaving here the evening stretch became intense and inconclusive as I had lost a page in my map and unsure whether to take a detour into the next resort. I made the decision to camp rough behind some pine trees along the road rather than risk an unwanted excursion.
Day 3 Olivia to Culp
A sleepless night with dogs barking and traffic belting past followed by an early morning 12 km hike was not the tonic I needed to start the day. At Ondara I get in a mess with the motorway and have to start again to ensure I get on the right road as both are extremely busy at this point. The 2 roads cross at a toll gate and I am unhindered by the interraction heading off to an English Cafe where I stop for a chat and a coffee. From here the day drags on along winding roads- no Camino de Santiago here, though desolate sections remind me of the Otira Gorge in New Zealand which I walked last year.It is a change from the urban sprawl though still potentially a dangerous experience along the bends and the partially built bridges. By evening I enter the busy resort of Culp and am immediately overwhelmed by the spirit of tourism. Each road is a nightmare to cross and after purchasing groceries I escape to the scrubland beyond the town and pitch my tent beside some bushes. Although concealed a dog barks throughout the night!
Day 4.Culp to Benidorm Region
I felt warm and slept well despite the barking hound which I saw on leaving the scrub. I wasn´t even on his land which made me cross and I shouted at him before disappearing into the traffic flow.Straight away I find a cafe and enter for breakfast, coffee and a shave. It was a good interval and after paying my bill I left in search of Benidorm – not that I was gripped with enthusiasm or anything mildly excitable about coming here! Soon the towering flats emerge and I pass inumerable hotels with unpronouncable names! The landscape is dominated by rows of flats and on rejoining the road it seems more like a motorway which at least gave me the hard shoulder. And like a true ´man of the road´I stop to eat my lunch on a concrete plimp next to the crash barrier. Eventually I find a roadside cafe where I chat to a couple who had taken notice of my progress reiterrating that they thought it was a remarkable quest. Continuing a little further I find a newbuild village with a supermarket and with night drawing in I head into the scrub for another night of camping rough.
Day 5 Benidorm Region to Alacant
A few spots of rain troubled me little and by 7.30am I was on the road. Stopping at the first cafe I came to the English owner arrives on cue and lets me in while he cleans up after a party. He goes on to explain that he came out here to look after his dad and decided to buy a pub. He now feels that England has been ruined and turned into a ´Nanny State´´ and in any case has no desire to go back.
Does England have a future I ponder, but thank him for his kindness and from here I kick on to Compello where I have coffee and a muffin. I am now walking the boundaries of Alicante which takes up the rest of the morning. On reaching the city they had moved the Estacion de Autobus and so I had a longer excursion trying to find that, when I eventually found it – it was closed!! I return at night and manage to buy a ticket to Santander for 48eu and once there I can rest in my favourite hotel – Hotel Alisas who have looked after me since my travels began in Europe back in 2004. Anna has booked my ferry to Plymouth and so by Thursday I could be back in England – well Cornwall at least!
ALISAS HOTEL, SANTANDER, Tel:+34 942 222 750.
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Please go to:
Catalunya – 1000km – Perpingnan to Santander (then Plymouth to Land´s End.
Basque Coast – 500km – Biarritz – Santander.
Camino de Santiago – 800km – St Jean to Santiago
Camino Portuguese – 300km – Porto to Santiago
Portugal (incl. Caminos de Fatima, Santiago and Atlantic coast) – 7000km
Med coast 1. – 1200km – Faro to Alicant
Med coast 2. – 1200km – Nice to Valencia
Med coast 3. – 200km – Valencia to Alicant
Belgium – 0700km-Ypres to Nantes
Holland – 250km – Eindoven to Ypres
France – 0700km – Nantes – Biarritz
Swiss – 0500km – Geneva – Arles
Geneva to Ypres – 1000km