AUTUMN NEWS 2016

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Cheque presentation at the Coppice Inn, Lanner
The Cornish Pilgrimage raises money for Cornwall Hospice Care.
Robin and friends, Craig Robertson, Mike Dunstan, Derek Wills, proprietor and supporter seen above at the Coppice handing over Cheque to Sarah Newton, fundraising executive for Cornwall Hospice Care. The amount represents local fundraising from The Gwennap Region (also supported by Flushing Gig Rowing Club – see the day-to-day diary of the walk – Aug/Sep making a grand total of £1418. With the project expanding across Cornwall we do aim to raise more money outside of our locality too.
Starting in Morwenstow and running coast-to-coast The Cornish Pilgrimage takes in coastline, canal routes and mineral trails; it also follows some of the ancient pilgrim routes formed by the Irish Saints. As a discovery trail it makes a good alternative for those wishing to explore the region.
Robin, who has recently returned from a war pilgrimage of the Somme, has been fundraising for Cornwall Hospice Care since the turn of the century and has raised/donated thousands of pounds to a wide range of charities (mainly hospice/cancer care and research. To learn more about the Cornish Pilgrimage Project visit:
Www.cornishpilgrimage.org.ukk
For more about Robin and his recent challenge in the Somme you can find his blog on Robin Moore’ Walking for Charity on Facebook or
Www.robin-moore.co.uk
His recent walk helped raised the importance of wearing a poppy as a symbol of peace and he has a donation page open for those wishing to contribute to the Royal British Region. His story may help people realise the great debt owed to the British Empire a century ago.
Fundraising walks begin again in March starting with St Pirans Day when a group will do a 5-mile Round Robin hike from St Pirans Church in Carharrack via Wheal Damsel, Vogue and Primrose Herd.
Many thanks to those you helped raise money for Cornwall Hospice Care – certificates will be issued in the next few days.

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE CHALLENGE
Saturday 20th August – 2016
Today marks the journey to Morwenstow from where I plan to commence my Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge. The day starts in turmoil at Redruth Station where ‘the whole world and its mother’ is trying to board a 5 carriage train bound for the Scottish Highlands. You’d think this time of year a couple more carriages would have been the sensible approach in providing a fair service to the high-paying travelling public. And once the Spanish students board at Plymouth there is no possible movement beyond one’s seat. Fire Risk! You wouldn’t stand a chance here and all I need is the toilet!
Any way beyond Exeter the bus journey to Bude provided some solace in between much-needed catnaps (it was a two plus hour journey) though sadly I was deposited at the town centre in pouring rain and gale force wind. When I say wind it wasn’t even possible to wear a bobble hat! Then finally it sinks in that there are no buses running to Morwenstow thus subjecting me to a ten-mile road march to reach the start point of my journey!
It is not unusual for me to have a warmup day before the start of a major challenge – the most I achieved before a walk was 47 miles – bit over-zealous on that occasion!
Passing a campsite, I enquire how much to pitch a tent – £30 plus is the reply – stuff that is my retort; Cornwall doesn’t need to be leisure capital of ‘Rip Off Britain’, ‘Brexit’ or any other form of oppression; the tents worth less than that. Holidaymakers beware!
Continuing through Stibb and later Coombe Valley I gain some shelter from the on-coming storm. Later I see a sign for the Bush Inn, Morwenstow which says 2 miles – great I think, but an hour later I see another one saying Bush Inn 1.75 miles and so the quest continues!
Two hours and three more sign posts later I finish the final mile to the village and locate the inn; at last I have sanctuary, good ale a hot meal and hopefully tomorrow a chance to start my walk along the famous Cornish Pilgrimage from Hawker’s Church to St Michael’s Mount.

Day 1 The Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 – August 21st – 26 miles

After a windswept night a sustaining breakfast at the Bush Inn sets me back on course for a new day as I head off in search of the official Pilgrimage starting point at Morwenstow Church.
The parish of Morwenstow gains much credence from its long association with Reverend Robert Hawker, an eccentric vicar and poet, who preached at the church from 1834 until his death in 1875. As a deeply compassionate man he sought to provide Christian burials for the many dead Mariners who had succumbed to the Kingdom’s most brutal coastline, and as the Pilgrimage takes shape along the North Coast Footpath I find his little hut built of driftwood. Here he would spend many hours writing poetry and looking out across that Atlantic Anvil for those in peril on the sea.
A few more ascents lead me away from the past to the present day as the satellite dishes at Stanbury Point bring Cornwall into the 21st century. Further undulations take in Duckpool where I startle a hawk resting by the cliff edge; it takes off in front of my eye line and drops to a ledge below – beyond there all I can make out is the blur of torrential rain. On my next climb I speak to a couple of ladies enjoying their mandatory dose of exercise; by now many groups were parading the cliff tops as I encountered Sharpnose Point, Sandy mouth and finally Bude – still now under siege of inclement weather.
I ponder long enough for refreshment at the Globe where the majority of holidaymakers appear to be taking shelter from the summer weather. Later I grab a pasty from a corner shop, and across the road acquire a passport stamp at the Tourist Office. This no country for old folk! As the prevailing wind and rain fails to captivate even the most ardent bad weather enthusiasts and meets only the approval of local water fowl and a handful of seasoned fishermen frequenting the Bude Canal. The canal forms the preliminary stages of my walk to Langdon Cross and is the official start of The Cornish Way National Cycle and Walking Route. Although now benign, the canal once played a significant part in Cornwall’s Industrial Revolution largely transporting sand from the North Coast to inland farms where it could be used as fertiliser.
As the cycle route peels away from the canal it follows a course to Marhamchurch where I pause briefly to take a photograph of the church of St Morwenna. Passing through the village I continue towards Week St Mary, the next 4 miles of which are dominated by farmland. A herd of goats give their opinion of my effort and bewildered cattle stare at me as though I am some sort of anthropological curiosity – ‘Who’s this strange bloke pounding through our countryside’. Soon normality is restored and grazing resumes. Thankfully traffic is minimal and with no facilities open at the village of Week St Mary I march on towards Clubworthy. I see a few signs for North Petherwin and during the final blast of the day I come across the billboard for the Otter Sanctuary; this provides me with a moment of solace too as I am nearing completion of today’s journey and at the next junction I cross to shelter at the Countryman Inn where carvery awaits which at least dispels some of the discomfort of yet another ‘Cornish summer day’ – no cider festival this year – but who cares what a great place to rest!
Day 2 – Langdon Cross to Five Lanes
After a laboured effort yesterday along the coast path and Cornish Way I was fortunate enough to be given a room for my toil at the Countryman Inn; a guest had failed to show up and I became the benefactor – ‘Fortune favours the Brave’ on this occasion, and I certainly needed a shower and comfort to enjoy a proper nights sleep.
Rising at 7am I enjoy a good breakfast and plan my route for the day. It is something of a mixture starting on the busy country link into Launceston (B3254) where the narrow sections require a cautious approach. Stopping briefly at Yeolmbridge I mark up some sign posts with Pilgrimage stickers and then make steady progress to St Stephens Church. From here the road drops to Launceston Stream Railway; on the descent I pass Newport House where I had stayed on previous travels. The lady retired some years ago yet the place still evokes happy memories and I feel a sense of well-being each time I pass by it; I recall it being pleasantly antiquated and the lady proprietor was a lovely person of old traditional values.
On reaching the railway I pause to take photos of the passengers waiting to board the noon train to Newmills Farm. I intend to visit the station in a while but for now I ascend the hill into town passing the old Norman Castle Ruin which remains Launceston’s most ancient landmark. Arriving at the Tourist Office I collect my stamp and the lady enquiries about this year’s pilgrimage and whether I stayed at The countryman the previous evening. I am happy to confirm a pleasurable stay there and after bidding farewell for another year I locate ‘Sarah’s Bakery’ and stop for a coffee.
After the interval I return to the railway for a bit of old-fashioned nostalgia which makes my time in Launceston all the more satisfying.
After speaking to Nigel Beaumont, the founder of Launceston Railway, I obtain a special stamp from the platform shop. For a moment time stands still as I admire the old worlde advertising boards displaying products fashioned in a pre-decimal era when the waft of coal -fired engines was an every day event. Today the schedule runs by the hour though to my sadness the train is presently en route to the hamlet of Newmills. Tregadillet is a mile uphill from Newmills which I make on foot along the byway formed from the railway bridge beyond the old priory. It is 2.5 miles to Newmills then a further mile to Tregadillet. At the top of the village stands the Eliot Arms where a sudden attack of thirst prompts me to step inside! This inn was the starting point of my first big walk in 1992 and remains a popular meeting place and pit stop for walkers. I recall a group called TWATS (Tregadillet walkers and train spotters) who took the train from Launceston to Newmills and then climbed the steep hill to the pub where they enjoyed sandwiches and refreshment. The simple pleasures still remain the most rewarding in life whatever one’s title – God Bless them!
My stay here was appreciated too, for beyond here lies a complex network of roads which I need to follow in order to stay clear of the A30. The first mile follows the old road out of the village where I cross at the roundabout to pick up the byway to Kennards House and the South Petherwin Junction. The diminutive road is less demanding as it veers away from the A30 leaving the din of traffic behind for awhile; it is well marked and ensures I make it to the junction without any bother. Turning right onto the busy B3254 is another matter demanding complete concentration and precise crossings to counter the narrow bends that prevail along this hazardous section. Two miles into the trek I cross a single track bridge, climb a hill which takes in another narrow section and at the top I bear right onto a farm track to Lewannick – phew – what a relief! The farm track proves to be innocuous without even a tractor to disrupt the 2-mile journey to Lewannick. After passing St Martin’s Church I grab a pasty from the Post Office and a pint at the local pub before returning to the task. The main road journey from here to Five Lanes is only 3 miles but the Pilgrimage adds a further 2 along the quieter byways and farm tracks. It traverses Kelly’s House and Plusha; then crossing the Callington/Bodmin Road I locate the farm route which is a mixture of woods, paddocks with a few scattered houses; the last mile follows the course of the A30 as it closes in on Five Lanes where I conclude my journey at the KIng’s Head.

Day 3 – Five Lanes to St Kew – 21 miles
It was a pleasant evening at The Kings Head in Five Lanes last night and I slept well in the tent despite heavy dew and a ‘slug invasion’ at dawn. Today looks good and I enjoyed a full English Breakfast curtesy of landlady, Mandy to get me back on the road with Altarnun just half a mile down the hill.
The gentle descent encompassed by woodlands sets up the day nicely and soon the church of St Nonna comes into view – behold ‘The Cathedral of the Moor’ as it is known locally, and more prestigiously, a title befitting of its grandeur. Altarnun is the archetypal olde worlde village with running stream and green but the church puts it in a world of its own and I enjoyed my tour inside where I met the warden briefly. After a cheerful interaction he signs my passport and I depart via the church footpath which leads to a country byway; from here I pass Nathania’s Pilgrim Hostel and later a little moorland pub called the Rising Sun. Bearing left I follow the road round to the Route 3 junction at Davidstowe Aerodrome. Here the slim trail skirts Crowdy Resevoir on its course to Camelford and along the way I see many cyclists, a few touring motorists and an abundance of sheep which frequent this wild, windswept terrain. I exchange greetings with other athletes enjoying their daily tonic of exercise and by 1pm I am making my descent along Roughter Road to ‘Arthur’s Kingdom’. The bright sunshine makes Camelford all the more welcoming and with time to relax I visit Jo’s pub, The Mason’s Arms and enjoy a peaceful beer in the garden. An hour later I make a further excursion to the Post Office to obtain some funds, then I am on my way again. Leaving Camelford, at the end of the cycle route I cross right to pick up the Trewalder Byway which passes Bowood Hotel and golf course. Beyond here I capture a glimpse of Lanteglos Church and then it’s off along the winding narrow roads associated with this section of the Pilgrimage. Villages are sparse here – more a spread of farm cottages broken by St Teath and Pendoggit – the latter I bypass as I make my descent to St Kew. The antiquity of this little village sizes up well with Altarnun complete with old church and inn of similar age. The masons lived at the site of the inn for ten years whilst building the Church of St James the Great and as ale was an important part of their diet they used the premise to brew their own. It must have ignited a good social forum during that decade because once they had completed their mission the old dwelling was officially licensed as a pub (around 1495) and is still known as St Kew Inn. I found the place delightfully intriguing and felt privileged to be able to camp the night on the pub garden opposite the iconic 15th century church.
Day 4 – St Kew to Wadebride – 16 miles
Leaving the St Kew Inn, I take the steep ascent out of the village and then turn left onto the St Minver Road. It is much cooler today and I progress well along the byway ticking off all the appropriate junctions which form the Pilgrim Route. The rustic landscape ensures there is plenty of activity along these narrow lanes where tractors toil to move their harvest and I am quiet shocked to see a bus squeeze past leaving no room for even the slimmest of pedestrians let alone a tank like me! Re-emerging from a nearby gateway, I gather my composure and make light work to Rock where I stop to grab a sandwich. Both my feet are hurting – the left has a series of burst blisters covering most my heel (some of this was caused on last week’s Oundle Pilgrimage in the Nene Valley) and more concerning is a sore Achilles’ tendon. Ignoring the pain I plod on towards the ferry terminal with thoughts of visiting Padstow and its endearing world of Rick Stein.
Any hope of a swift crossing is soon dispelled on arrival at the shore where the whole world and its grandparents where queuing back to the road and half way up the hill. I really can’t see the pleasure in spending money on a holiday such as this which involves constant queuing.
By the time I reach Padstow I had lost the impetus of the day and struggle to make any headway through the crowd. All around people are queuing to spend the coin of fun – shops, cafes – even toilets – it was like watching cattle being herded along the street. I felt a sense of relief reaching the Camel Trail but it was short-lived as I could barely get going amid the throng of tourists who are clearly captivated by the sight of ‘two wheels’. Eventually I steal some grassland beside the trail and continue nipple high in cyclists. They come in their droves – all shapes and sizes – some of the ‘telletubies’ don’t look safe and are clearly traumatised by the experience; and there are adults that can’t even ride a three wheeler! Then of course you get the mandatory pair of ‘tanks’ who come along two abreast (and that was a sight for sore eyes!) bullying all else into submission; though I must concede it prompted a rye smile watching every one scatter into the vegetation! By the time I reach Wadebridge the mayhem of holiday season proves too much and so I decide to call it a day and attend to my feet. I book into the Swan Hotel for the night and on foot inspection find my right shoe is full of blood resultant from a burst blister – can’t believe it is that bad! A good scrub down and a spot of food soon puts pay to the discomfort leaving the rest of my day in front of the TV watching the cricket.

Day 5 – Wadebridge to Pentewan – 27 miles
Leaving Bodmin around 9am provides a good start along a much quieter Camel Trail than yesterday, and I enjoy the early steps stopping for a moment to look at the old train station next to the town’s library. There are definitely no camels present along this track which is largely characterised by its connection with the old days of steam. Before the Beeching axe fell this section formed part of the Great Southern Railway which followed the Camel Estuary to its terminus at Padstow, now the fish processing halls which earn the town a healthy living (any one remember Rick Stein!).
As the journey progresses away from Wadebridge I enjoy glimpses of its former life; well-restored platforms and time tables set partially in wooded escarpment gave it the ‘look of a railway’. At Boscarne Junction I bear right on the pedestrian footpath which forms part of my route via Nanstallon to Lanivet. After crossing a bridge a group of children escort me uphill to the village and ensure I take the correct road. This forms from the left of the Boscarne Sign post and so I follow its course to the Bodmin/Lanivet Road. After a quick blast of traffic I reach the village and immediately call into the chip shop to order some lunch.
Like Camelford chip shop, this plaice is also known as the best chip shop in England! But I have to confess it is very nice. Progressing beyond here along the Saints Way I soon become familiarised with the rural countryside which is presently busy with harvest duties. Some of the roads are a but tight but I am able to use my climbing skills to keep out of trouble; trees and gates are generally ok but I find hedge rows and barbed wire fences a bit of a problem – welcome to modern life on an ancient pilgrim route!
The journey continues inexorably for most of the time interacting with hamlets and farm yards where dogs herald my arrival at each passing place. People also take note of my progress, and at Luxulyan a guy pulls up to say well done; we had met earlier on The Camel Trail when he was doing his morning cycle ride; he went on to say he had cycled to Lourdes in France last year and is keen to do the Camino de Santiago – good on him – what a great challenge for him to do!
Luxulyan Valley provides an inspiring late afternoon session amid wild beauty and refreshing sound of running water’; en route a train thunders across the lofty viaduct and beyond here I walk through the grounds of the Eden Project. The path on the far left continues along Route 3 into St Austell; it is also possible to continue to Charlestown and Porthpean; occasionally I use this route when I need to call in to Mount Edgecombe Hospice. Today I just follow the course into the town centre and later exit along the Pentewan Tramroad. On completion of the cycle route I follow the coast path to the Pentewan Campsite where the receptionist finds me a spot to camp (19.30pm) – and obviously I had a pint after that lot!.

Day 6 – Pentewan to St Just-in-Roseland Creek
Setting off along the coast path in brilliant sunshine I enjoy the all round panoramic views across St Austell Bay. It is a strenuous first section as the trail climbs several paddocks on the way to the summit – the cattle need a good head for heights here! Reaching the peak there is a grass park with benches overlooked by a few houses and from here I follow the rows of cottages as they tumble to the harbour. The water scene is a mix of pleasure craft and fishing vessels and all around people are enjoying the holiday atmosphere. Bank Holiday looms and I need to get clear of these vastly popular seaside places. Struggling through the crowds I make my way to Portmellon where the pub ladies replenish my water supply to combat one of the hottest days of the year.
Moving away from the coast I pass all the rural communities along the way stopping briefly at the campsite at Boswinger for more water; later I cross the grounds of Caerhay’s Castle en route to Porthlunny Cove. The place is a hive of beach lovers who gather to enjoy the incoming tide and the tearoom nearby has a queue stretching from the car park; there is money to be made everywhere here today and as I leave more tourists struggle to obtain a space to park. My journey continues uphill via the coast path to Porthalland where I take a dip in the sea to cool down – then a cup of tea to relax. Heading back inland I reach the ‘Round Houses’ of Veryan; unusual buildings but effective in the days when the Devil lurked in every corner of a dwelling. He was not present today and so the challenge continues without disruption. After collecting groceries at the villageI continue to Porthgower for my last glimpse of the sea for awhile and after a quick burst along the St Mawes Road I turn off in the direction of Philleigh.
The road winds itself around the farmland and I cross some of the pastures via a footpath; soon I am approaching the Roseland Inn where I decide to take a break and indulge in some much-needed supper. The evening cools down as I set of for the final session which is a little painful on now blistered feet. I reach the creek before dusk and settle in a field nearby.

Day 7 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 27th 2016
St Just-in-Roseland to Carharrack – 14 miles
Waiting by the boatyard whilst enjoying the serenity of the creek, Clive and Craig appear on the waves paddling ‘No Worries’ (name of the canoe) up to the shore. Shortly after mooring the Flushing Gig Rowing Team arrive to ferry across the water to Point. As the day progresses the temperature rises and I feel refreshed and grateful for my privileged passage across the estuary.
Docking briefly at Point I disembark bidding my comrades ‘Bon Voyage’ after three cheers for their beloved companion who died recently at a Cornwall Hospice which looked after him in his final days. I arrange to meet Clice and Craig later at the Coppice Inn, Lanner then set off to Devoran Quay I meet Anne for a snack and beer.
After the break I continue across the Portreath Tramroad towards Bissoe. The sunshine draws people across the Tramroad; dog walkers, cyclists and even joggers who can sustain the heat. I stop again at Bissoe for coffee and cake then press on to Twelveheads where I ascend to the old Redruth & Chacewater Railway which is an appropriate way to finish the day. Carharrack and Lanner here we come; and tomorrow all being well we’ll take a hike along the Gwennap Pilgrimage for the local section of the challenge. Hopefully we can provide some video footage for this leg and on Tuesday the journey continues to St Ives by way of Route 3, The St Michael’s Way and Coast Path.

Day 10 August 30th
Carharrack to St Ives – 26 miles
Having enjoyed my Bank Holiday tour of the Gwennap Region, I head off along Tram Cross Lane to the top of Tresavean Tramway Junction; then after a short walk uphill I bear right and take the byway to Copper Lane. My friend Anne is cycling ahead and we both take footage of the awe-inspiring landscape which affords all round views from the North Coast to Carn Brea Castle and back towards Redruth and Carn Marth.
Descending to Churchtown we pass St Euny Church and follow Route3 to the Carne; briefly it adopts The Great Flat Lode over the top as far as the Mineral Centre at Pool. Having reached this landmark Anne begins her return journey to Lanner while I continue on Route 3 to Camborne enjoying highlights of Heartlands, the new centre at Pool funded by the Lottery, and the many derelict engine houses that continue to haunt the landscape. The gaunt relics still emanate a voice from the past reminding us that they helped to make this region the richest square few miles in the world during the peak of Cornwall’s the Industrial Revolution.
After crossing the railway track to reach Camborne I stop for a break at Wetherspoons; then continue along The Cornish Way to Penponds. A diminutive trail leads me past a park and joins a narrow lane on its course through these rural outposts of the journey to Hayle. Passing through Penponds a train roars past above momentarily disturbing the solitude of village life. Joining a slim trail on the right below the railway tunnel I march on to Carnell Green; here the road widens and there are crop fields on both sides as I make my way to Gwineer. There is a greater flow of traffic here and amazingly a few walkers too! Cyclists use the road because it forms part of Route 3 which we adopt as passage for our Pilgrimage to Hayle.
Reaching Hayle I am pleased to see it is only 2pm and a brisk march across the estuary enables me to escape the busy streets reaching Lelant 20 minutes later. There is no respite here as the surge of holidaymakers proves unrelenting, yet by chance I catch sight of a fascinating pub called The Water Mill and decide it is time to take refuge and quench thirst before heading off on the St Michael’s Way which starts at St Uny Church.
This interesting old world pub has quant interior with Victorian working machinery and a large functioning water wheel outside too. After a refreshing interval I leave the commotion of tourism behind – once I manage to cross the bloody road that is! But from then on I indulge myself with the quieter coast lanes of Lelant.
Joining the St Michael’s Way at St Uny Church heralds the beginning of the last and most ancient section of the Pilgrimage to St Michael’s Mount; though there are still some miles to be trodden tomorrow along an arduous course across the wide open spaces of Lelant Downs and Trencrom.
The path is gently undulating with golf course to the right and the beautiful Porth Kidney Sands below with seaward views as far as Godrevy Point. A train chugs past on its way to Carbis Bay and soon a great sea of tourists engulf the beach ahead as I make my ascent towards the holiday centre. I follow the path through the grounds of the Carbis bay Hotel and over a couple of bridges; soon I pass the St Michael’s Way Junction and from here the remainder of today’s journey is completed along the coast path. On arrival in St Ives I head for Ayr Holiday Camp Site and book in for the remainder of the walk. Then it’s sauna, swim and a beer to complete today’s effort. Cheers everyone!

Day 11 – August 31st
St Ives to St Michael’s Mount
After a press meeting with Toby from the St Ives ‘Times and Echo newspaper’, I start the day with a steep hike to The Cornish Arms at Carbis Bay where I join Steeple Lane and make further ascent to Knill’s Monument.
There is a bit of drizzle about as I make my way through the bracken to Laity Lane. Turning left I continue by road and pause to speak to a lady walking her dogs; she uses the St Michael’s Way regularly but admits it is one of the more difficult sections of the Cornish Pilgrimage Route to follow.
I find the next sign post by a few scattered houses which leads me through an escarpment; then I cross a paddock and enter farmland which makes up the next mile to a small hamlet near Bowl Rock Chapel. Crossing the road I pass by the chapel and ascend through the cattle field beyond as far as Tremcrom Hill. Here I join a nature park and enjoy a trek as far as the car park where I rejoin the road and then a byway which falls to a solitary Victorian Chapel. The building is now a residential property and soon I am traversing the back garden – colourful it is too I may add! Then another stile; a few more cattle fields and a farm and I find myself descending through another escarpment. Before the trail dips to its lowest point I catch sight of St Michael’s Mount and a little further downhill are a group of pilgrims. I catch them up and discover they hail from Germany and all look to be keen walkers dressed for the occasion. By now wet weather had transformed into another hot summer’s day and the Pilgrimage an ambience of hedge rows, time old features including a ford which can be crossed by a foot bridge and after an ascent by road Panoramic views of Mounts Bay and the idyllic Ludgvan Church. The downhill journey across the paddocks lead to some lovely wooded sections accompanied by the sound of running water. All is quiet at Ludgvan and it is too early for the pub so I continue across the flat farmland to the next road junction. Traffic is full on as one can expect in peak season, but I cross easily, take on the next section which also crosses the A30 and later the main line railway from Penzance.
The rest is a gentle stroll through the marshes to Marazion where the tide is out and I cross easily to the Mount.
The Island is full of Tourists and I fear having a panic attack after an intense walk and dehydration. The Harbour Master sees I am distressed and offers to sign my passport so I can escape the crowds; also I have a press release to secure for this week’s publication and promotion of our support for Cornwall Hospice Care. I now feel I should consider a final leg to Lands End tomorrow as a full end to end journey of Cornwall; it will bring more publicity and reopen old chapters of my old walking history with new meaning to my Pilgrimage. All will be revealed tomorrow!

Day 12 – The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – 1st September 2016
Continuation of Pilgrimage to Lands End
‘ My Staff and I’
Throughout the Pilgrimage my wooden staff with St Piran’s Scallop has been my aid and companion in sun and rain; yet the story of its origin is even more compelling.
Whilst on a coast-to-coast expedition of the British Isles I suffered an early blister which did not heal and later turned into an ulcer. The pain was excruciating and my boots were often full of blood by the end of the day. I was loathe to camp in case of infection and for the greater part of the journey managed to stay in hotel/inn accommodation. Having walked round the Ring of Kerry I engaged myself into some long hauls exceeding 50km; I still had Waterford and Rosslare to go as the Ireland leg drew to a close. On my approach to a town called Kilmeaden I was in considerable discomfort and it was far to late to get anywhere to stay. It was freezing cold by the time I reached the place and as I passed what looked to be a social club a lady shouted across to me. She was the bar attendant called Carol just breaking off for a cigarette and after a chat she invited me in for a Guinness. I was surprised to see the place still open and with people there supping ale. One of the guys was a raleigh driver called Mick Morrissey who had travelled the world on 4 wheels and done his bit for charity too. One such epic in Lebanon finished in a hail of gunfire which left his hotel room needing a spot of renovation! After an hour of chat and another final last orders of Guinness, Mick invited me to his home to rest up for the night and I can tell you after a punishing day I was grateful to know I wouldn’t be sleeping under the stars!
During the early hours of the morning Mick went over to his workshop, and being the skilful man he is, made a lovely walking stick complete with handle and of course his signature below. It was a gift I would always treasure because of its contribution to an effort under duress and more important the foundation of a good friendship.
That day he followed me to Arthurstown to ensure I was still fit to continue my quest; the following year we met again; this time at the end of an epic Barmy Army Walk of 2008 covering 5 Celtic Kingdoms over 3 months. In that calendar year I was able to raise £7000 for Hospice Care and Cancer Research so the effort was at least rewarded with a worthwhile contribution.
2 years later we launched our Pilgrimage Projects (Oundle for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall and Cornwall Hospice Care) which are walked each summer and have raised thousands of pounds for the charities as well as putting them on the fundraising map in new places that knew little about them before. This year has seen the involvement of the Flushing Gig Rowers, local canoeists, cyclists and maybe next year we will see some equestrians take part and raise money for a worthy cause.
And so the stick that has accompanied me throughout this pilgrimage of Cornwall has a place of origin and an important place in my heart as a symbol of friendship.
Wherever you are Mick keep well and enjoy your travels too!

Back in Penzance Market Jew Street is a hive of activity as holidaymakers continue to explore the nooks and crannies of this great fishing town steeped in smuggling traditions. I pause long enough to grab breakfast at Wetherspoons, then kick on to the outskirts of town where I connect my journey with the sign for Land’s End.
It initially follows the A30 with some pavement and notoriously steep hills; there is no dual carriageway here – just country roads that service the small communities in the basement of Cornwall. Later I make an excursion along the byway to Sancreed, an ancient settlement with Celtic Roots. All is peaceful as the din of traffic is replaced by tranquil presence of water formed from a large dam which follows the road for half a mile. It meanders off away to the right as my journey descends along a country lane which harbours only a few cyclists and the occasion four wheel drive. All is good as I pass the St Just turn off which reveals a glimpse of Sancreed Church. A bit further on a side lane bears off towards Brane whilst I continue along the country lane interspersed by a few Farm houses. Along the way I pass equestrians who confirm my journey to Land’s End is just another 6 miles. Rejoining the A30 I walk on to Crows-an-Wra and pause for a mineral drink. Continuing carefully I cross the road regularly to avoid sharp bends and leave nothing to chance amid the surge of holidaymakers set to invade the Country’s notorious end. It’s not quite the end of the world but has become a tourist magnet all the same and I have began and finished of a dozen major expeditions here – many exceeding thousands of miles making it an important landmark for my achievements – and one I look back on fondly.
A nearing my destination I stop at Sennen for more fluid and make my final descent; the road is full of caravans, camper vans and numerous coaches and open air buses as I arrive at Land’s End. most impressive was a lady with a dog who skipped all the way from Sennen to this final Pilgrim destination. Despite numerous visitors I manage to arrive at the famous sign post to mark the end of this journey and to celebrate 30,000 miles of Expeditions/Pilgrimages for charity. And on attempting to pay for the pictures a kind gentleman steps in and gives the photographer his fee; I had barely thanked him before he disappeared into the hub of visitors becoming invisible within seconds.
I will soon be leaving here after a few moments of nostalgia and time to reflect on many great walking achievements which have culminated here in the last 20 years. Long may it go on – and when I can’t do it any more – some one else will! Bless you all and good luck.

A Pilgrimage of WW1
Poem – Kitchener’s Army of ‘Pals’
The Great War rages on with the reaper as its guide,
Hovering in the theatre of battle to visit death upon each side,
And as the allies push forward to the banks of the Somme,
They find another road to hell, amid shell, barbed wire and bomb.

The whisper of the Somme ushered forth more men in boots,
Young, fit and keen to fight are Lord Kitchener’s new recruits,
Old pals from Blighty, so happy and cheerful they once did roam,
Soon to embrace the wrath of conflict, many miles from home.

Summer marches on as The Battle of Albert draws near,
Beneath the mask of laughter and fun is a sense of growing fear,
Generals speak bold words of gallantry, duty and ultimate victory,
Could anything possibly halt this great surge of equanimity.

Onward March Kitchener’s men in hearty voice and cheer,
To the front they go, their songs and anthems clear,
Dawn approaches fast, with the big guns soon to stop,
And for the old pals to fix bayonets, ready to go over the top.

There is no time to think of the day to come,
Still young with calm still air and rising sun,
Gone is the way of life that we once knew,
Replaced by bullet, barb wire and spew.

60,000 men fell on that first morning of battle,
Pushed over the top like herds of cattle,
Summer long fighting saw a million dead,
It was a bloodbath of young soldiers who were badly mislead.

Today, a land of white tablets tell of their shortness of life,
From Maricourt to Albert where the Somme battles were rife,
Like a bridge spanning nations helping the world to cope,
It is now a place of remembrance, peace and great hope.
By Robin Moore

Walking from Luxembourg to Albert (the Somme)
Day 1 Luxembourg to Arlon – 30km
After a late evening lift with ” Coppice Derek” to Exeter Airport; a plane to Manchester and another to Luxembourg, I arrive with the help of public transport at the railway station in the city centre where I completed last year’s walk from Arnhem, September 2015.
Like the 2014 Pilgrimage of War and Words (now in print), this walk commemorates the Great War and pays tribute to those who fell at the Somme in 1916 which transpired to be one of the bloodiest battles of the conflict (see justgiving page for British Legion). It bears similar poignant reminders of a conflict which changed a way of life engineered through the genius and power of the Industrial Revolution throughout the previous century. The technology devised in this age though sought only to reek destruction, havoc and hardship.
We wonder how lessons of war have not been learnt despite the fact we are no longer a fledgling society finding our way in the world; on that note I ask why are we still fighting today!
Initially my main battle here amid the traffic is finding the correct route out of the city centre, and after a lot of backtracking with experimental hikes I find myself back at the railway station where I seek help from a local touring company. After receiving clear instructions from the two girls on duty I am on my way wondering why I never went there in the first place! Later I seek further assistance from The Bank of Luxembourg who kindly provide me with a local map and confirmation that my journey to Arlon is well underway. Luxembourg itself did not fire a shot in anger during WW1 but was occupied by Germany who used the high ground to shell the French positions, and the rail tracks to infiltrate both France and Belgium. The city today has a look of the modern world yet steeped in gothic-style architecture of yesteryear that is also predominant in parts of France. On my last visit I noticed many refugees around the city centre and a strong police presence at night time. As I walk the streets on this sunny afternoon I see people begging in shop doorways but generally speaking a brisk pace of life continues here devoid of any conflict.
Within an hour the motorway kicks in and the traffic flow reduces to a gentle ebb as I enjoy the comfort of a pavement to the outskirts of the city.
A steel bridge construction ends the Luxembourg experience bringing about a transformation of open countryside broken by small villages. The Autumn is well underway here lacking the riot of colour served up on home shores; instead leaves and twigs drift across the paths obscuring my passage in the dimming light. Facilities become sparse for a while but as dusk approaches I cross into Belgium where the next town awaits on the horizon ahead. Around 6pm I am entering a supermarket in Arlon where I purchase a few groceries, though the place is so big I can’t find the bloody exit! Once away from there I hastily look for a night time refuge following a big H sign to the local hospital! Then I walk into a stationary tank next to a memorial in the market square – and so it goes on! After another hour circling the town with no real sense of direction I am fortunate enough to stumble across a lovely little restaurant, The Tulli which also provides accommodation – B&B for 55euros.

Day 2 Arlon to Florenville – 43km
Having spent a good night at the Tulli Hotel I start the day with a few photos of the town centre before locating the N40 to Habay. With a population approaching 30,000 Arlon is the smallest provincial capital in Belgium but probably one of the oldest pre dating Roman times when it’s natives were a mix of Celtic and Germanic origin. Sadly it is also known to be one of the first casualties of the Great War when 121 of its town folk were executed on the orders of Colonel Richard Karl von Tessmar. The violation of the 1839 treaty of Belgium Neutrality brought about Britain’s involvement in the war and they were soon to take up arms against Germany in the first great battle at Mons Salient, August 23rd 1914.
Having enjoyed a brief encounter with history I locate my route which is reasonable for walking. Enjoying its ruralness I note the transition of opulent gothic buildings of yesterday to those of purpose-built farm dwellings along the way. There are pockets of forest and trees that nature has failed to strip eminently displaying Autumn colours of golden and reddish brown. Pausing briefly along the way I note a dedication to Notre Dame; derived from the efforts of local people it contains collage, souvenirs and narrative paying tribute to ‘Our Lady of Paris’ . Arriving at Habay I find little in the way of facilities, so press on through Rules crossing its diminutive bridge where I see a plaque dedicated to local heroes of the Great War. Later, I make my first stop for coffee at Marbenam where I sit by a wood burner to stay warm and get help with directions from two local guys at the bar. The sun had tried to poke through the haze earlier but has gone now I feel for the rest of the day leaving the cool air to creep in once more. I have completed over 24 km and it is 2pm; I will give myself another 4 hours on the road before trying to find lodgings tonight.
Leaving the village on the N891 I set off for Rossignol and Jamoigne but amazingly rain sets in to make a task of it. The road too has its shortcomings with potholes soon filling up with water and I feel a visit from ARC is overdue! I make an excursion to Izel in hope of seeking out it’s much-lauded hotel/restaurant only to later find it closed! A further hike sees me to Pin and with the time at 5pm dusk is approaching already. It’s five more ‘clicks’ to Florenville where I need to find both food and shelter having not eaten since breakfast. On reaching the town my fortune changes as I book into the newly opened Le Florentine Hotel where the pretty receptionist sets up my wifi and directs me to the nearest supermarket.
Florenville, a substantial town of nearly 6,000 inhabitants, is situated on the Semois River and is close to the French border which all being well I will cross in the morning. Then a town or so later, on reaching Mouzon, my past and present pilgrimages of the Great War will meet thus completing a 6,000km circular trail around France; taking in the Italian border, as far as Geneva and beyond to Verdun, Luxembourg, Lille and Ypres in Belgium. Then back through Vimy Ridge Arros, Amiens and Nantes; beyond here my travels follow a course through La Rochelle finishing near to the Spanish border at Biaritz.

Day 3 Florenville to Sedan – 40km
Leaving the hotel I pass ‘The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption’ as I set off in search of the D981 to Mouzon in France. It is a wet start along the quiet forest road and within half an hour I cross the border into France. Nearby on the Belgium side is a statue dedicated to the British war effort during 1914-18 elaborately ornated with a lion at the top. Further on I see a few guys out on a game shoot (hopefully that’s all they were interested in!!), and later I pass through the first of several farm villages. Heading into rural France the road becomes more diminutive interspersed by a handful of tiny communities and I am relieved to reach the substantial town of Carignan where I enjoy a coffee break
I have completed 16 km already and it is only 11.30am; this place is sizeable though at present looks as though it has been maintained by ‘Guy Fawkes’ as rubble and broken bits of the thoroughfare lie all around. After skirting round a heap of concrete at the end of town I continue my journey along the D19 to Mouzon.
Traffic speeds by on this slim country road which winds itself around the hilly forest land but later the sun shines over the River Meuse as I make my descent to the ancient gated town of Mouzon. As I pass through the gateway I am immediately exposed to the beautiful double-towered gothic-style church and after crossing the bridge I find a local restaurant to enjoy a much-needed coffee and a moment to savour my travels in France.
Pressing on in the direction of Sedan I cross over another bridge spanning a wide section of river where two guys are fishing; the air is still and I press on to the end of town. A century ago the terrain along the Meuse would have been a theatre of war taking in the battles of Ardennes, Sedan and Verdun; the latter raging on throughout the entire conflict. It took until 1917 onwards when a US/Franco offensive under General Pershing began to erode the German lines eventually pushing them back through Luxembourg. Beyond the town the country vista opens up again as my route bears down on a peaceful Meuse. The walking pace remains brisk though I gain composure watching the river meander through its quiet, unspoilt landscape and tiny communities conspicuous only by smoking chimneys. I took a different route to Sedan previously but this undulating terrain allows good all round panoramic views of the whole region including the road on the far side of the river. Passing through new villages I churn up the miles and amuse myself talking in French to cattle and horses; earlier I shared my lunch with a pair of goats whose company brightened up my day. With light still good and a spring in my step I make Sedan by nightfall yielding over 40km due to the longer combination of roads. After a further excursion to Lidl I collect some groceries and later book into a Kyard hotel at 60 euros for B&B, but had to return to the supermarket having forgot to get beer! All is good now as I relax and enjoy refreshment with my thoughts drifting to tomorrow and the new adventures that lay in wait.

Day 4 Sedan to Le Val De Vence – 42km
Sedan was in German occupation throughout the Great War and I am unsure whether it is Remembrance Sunday here in France today but have my poppy attached just in case. After breakfast at the hotel I head off in search of the route to Flize. En route a French hiker assists with directions and the pronunciation of Flize which sounds more like “flees”. At the next village I join the cycle route along the River Meuse which runs first to Dom-le-mesail which is 6km and a further 2.5km to Flize. The cool air is biting yet the tranquility by the water allows me time to relax away from the stress of the road. I encounter a few cyclists and die-hard joggers along the way; the first section running beside a canal; after a few locks it returns to a fuller expanse flowing alongside woodlands with pastures to my left running back to the road. On reaching Flize I immediately pick up my route to Poix Terron which goes well as far as Bouzincourt. To say this village is a sleepy little place is an understatement – they must be very tired here as I don’t remember a soul on the way through let alone anywhere open for trade!
Ahead the motorway traffic roars in and out of Charville Mezieres and on reaching intersection I have difficulty in finding a pedestrian route; after several attempts I follow the only road left which to my dismay does not have signs for any places on either of my maps. Ah well! Keep bearing right and see what happens is my prognosis! Soon I am on a farm track defined as unsuitable for transport; it is a steep ascent and ahead I see youngsters struggling uphill on their bycicles. They wish me good day and seconds later some maniac speeds past scattering the group though luckily not inflicting casualties. It only takes one idiot to spoil the party! Pressing on the slim lane passes a farm yard as it runs through the rural out backs untill all traces of mechanical activity subsides. All that surrounds me is forest now and tons of it! After Continuing for an hour I am heartened by the din of distant traffic and arrive at another unchartered village; guess what – it brings me out onto the D35. Great is my initial response until I realise there are no signs for places anywhere or even nowhere! I toss a coin – left it is then and 5km on I am informed by a pair of local hikers that I now need to turn round and walk 5km back; further more Signy l’Abbaye, my next destination is 18km! Feeling totally lambasted with daylight fading rapidly I hasten past the village I joined the road from earlier. A few km later I stop to repair my feet and eat a curled up sandwich salvaged from breakfast time. As dusk looms ever near I march on to Le Val De Vence arriving at the D27 junction for Signy which is now only 11km. Amazingly, to my great relief, is a hotel literally across the road from the junction and within moments I am instilled in a lovely little room with a breakfast booked for the morning! What a miraculous end to a testing day – it was as if it had been planted there, and words can’t describe how grateful I am for that!

Day 5 Le Val De Vence to Montecornet Region – 58km
Having enjoyed a great rest and slumber I take breakfast before heading off in the direction of Signy l’Abbaye. It’s a mirky start with an air of ‘Monday Morning Syndrome’ which does not bother me particularly as each day is the same in this game. Throughout the early steps the clearing mist is cool and I benefit from the continued quietness of my journey amid forest and farmland which still captures a semblance of endless rusticity.
Ironically all that passes by are two “Convoi Exceptionalle” illustrating that quiet country lanes are the best routes to transport heavy goods in France. At Dormany I stop by a fishing lake and savour a moment of peace; the village has a few interesting buildings which enables me to make sense of the title ‘Route of Churches and Fortifications’ as it is known to the tourists who frequent it. On arriving at Signy l’Abbay I stop for coffee and then go in search of the Tourist Office to obtain a better map.
I find the town disappointing paying over £4 for a basic coffee and no sign of a Tourist Office for assistance. Passing through several more villages I savour the beauty of Autumnal colours along this peaceful byway knowing that a Route change is imminent. This I find at the next town signposted as D978 around 1.30pm but without further addition to the 25km walked today, I break for coffee and a chat with the proprietor who enjoys looking through books of my past adventures; then as a gesture of respect treats me to a chocolate desert.
After the interval I cross to the left of the road and commence my journey to Rozoy-s-Serre.
The walk goes well and I make my destination by nightfall and although I find the hotel it has a notice saying closed on 7th November – how typical is that – the only bloody day of the year too!
This now means a night trek which is likely to include camping. It is hazardous despite sporting fluorescent cloths and torch but 2 hours later I reach Montecornet which – guess what – also has no facilities! I see a young maid walking her dog using a ridiculously long lead which I manage to trip over several times as I walk the thoroughfare. After a while we stop and chat; then she tries to help by explaining that I need to take the right fork out of town. Following her instructions I walk a further 3 km beyond the fork, finding a spot to pitch my tent in a nearby forest – a short distance from a railway crossroads.

Day 6 Montecornet Region to Origny Benoite – 57km
It is no joke pitching a tent in total darkness in the confines of a thicket! Amazingly I got some sleep but wake to find fog; also my phone has failed to charge up at my previous stay so I have no communication/ alarm clock ect. It is an aweful struggle in the fog on what now transpires to be a ‘truckers route’ – not good and it is a slow 13km yomp to Maule where I do at least obtain a coffee and instructions how to find St Quentin. No sign posts yet but have been informed it is another 50km! The market square is a hive of activity and I capture a moment watching townsfolk exchange hugs as they squeeze past street traders clinging to their baguettes and sweet bread. Passing along the industrial byways is less invigorating though, as I concentrate hard to ensure I arrive at the appropriate junction.
Managing to get out of the town I continue along my route feeling no more animated than I did on arrival there! With no facilities available I rest by some hay bales to eat a tin of mackerel, my only remaining source of nutrition. While nourishing myself the farmer arrives on a fork lift needing to distribute the very bale I’m sat on – unbelievable! After moving to another haystack I change my socks before continuing this enduring hike. Setting off again the farmer returns to collect more fodder and we wave goodbye on parting in different directions. Eventually I reach a small village which also brings about another route change; no let up in traffic though as heavy goods wagons, mostly shipping sugar beet from local farms, continue to dominate the highway.
I make it to the next main town Origny Benoite and to my delight I see a sign for St Quentin – only 6 km. It is dusk now and I fail once more to find accommodation in this industrial set up. Feeling frustrated by the lack of facilities over the last 100km I depart against the teatime traffic and the sickly smell of sugar beet – walking until I can take no more! Finding a coppice beside the busy highway I retire to pitch a tent as rain comes in to ensure an uncomfortable night. The hope of a hot meal still seems a very long way off!

Day 7 Origny Benoite Region to Perrone (Somme Region) 43km
“Il fait mauvais temps ici”
Heavy rain soaked the coppice last night as I heard horses struggle for shelter nearby, but despite a rough 2 days I slept adequately though footsore on the start of today. The weather is unrelenting and so are the trucks -I wonder if there is any left in France! My plight is halted momentarily at Saint Quentin where I stop at the first cafe I come to and warm myself up with a coffee. Next I need a sock change and head off to find a suitable shelter. Later I visit the town centre which has many opulent buildings and for a change hotels! The market square is hosting a live presentation which is well-attended despite the rain. St Quentin, largely recognised through its association with art, had seen plenty of action throughout WW1 ; initially it is remembered as a haven for those retreating from Mons and the battle of Le Cateau; then more significantly in 1918 at the Battle of St Quentin Canal. This was a pivotal battle starting on 29th September under Australian General John Molash commanding British, American and Australian forces in a final assault on the Hindenburg Line, Germany’s most fortified position. It took nearly a million shells in 24 hours to break through the line, but it meant there was little hope of Germany winning the war and from here the allies, further mechanised with tanks, gathered strength in their quest for supremacy in the field.

Stopping at an Ibis Hotel the receptionist helps me book accommodation at Perrone which is a further 30km as I feel another night in the forest would not bode well.
Great I think initially, but later realise I have left the town via the route to Cambrai! Basically I now need to walk the whole way back beyond the town bridge which I crossed 2 hours ago. It is difficult as there are no signs for Perrone and it takes ages til I see one for Amiens. Having asked a good range of people on my way back through the city I eventually get onto the road to Amiens.
Still snowed under with lorries – must have passed a million by now! And worse still is the mini hurricane that comes from nowhere! The dark clouds move quickly wth bursts of ice rain and there is danger as I am tossed into the road like a rag doll. There are no forests here to offer protection and I notice that cars too are struggling to cope with these conditions. For a while it is difficult to make any headway and I wonder if I will ever get to Perrone. Eventually I reach the Somme border and as dusk descends quickly I turn off the Amiens Road and on towards Perrone. Teatime traffic slows me down along another narrow road, but I arrive unscathed by 7pm, collect groceries and then retire to the pre-booked St Claude Hotel costing 70 euros. Thank God!

Day 8 Perrone to Albert – 26km
Setting off from the St Claude Hotel in Perrone I backtrack through the town to the Albert sign where I commence my journey through the old Somme battlefields. Perrone like St Quentin saw plenty of action during the campaign having been occupied from August 28th, 1914, and on 1st September 1918, a month before the partial destruction of the Hindenburg Line, the enemy was ousted for good – paving the way clear for victory. Today the sky is clear and the calmness of the morning allows me to progress more effectively than yesterday. The road is kinder too with less traffic to dodge and I pause along the way to admire the remaining landmarks of the journey. Beyond the A Route to Arras and Lille there are many war graves and cenotaphs interspersed all the way to Albert. Passing through the rural landscape I hear gunshots nearby; a century again the heart would have raced but today only pheasants run the risk of defeat! Stopping briefly at Maricourt I visit a cemetery used after an early Somme offensive in August 1916. This was also the last outpost of the British Frontline and from here the French continued their trenches along the Meuse through Verdun extending as far as Basel in Switzerland. Stopping again a few km further on at a small cenotaph I note signs for a Devonshire Cemetery and Commonwealth sites at Rancourt and Bray. As Albert looms ever near the endless fields of white grave stones evoke a chilling reminder of the great debt owed to the British Empire. On reaching the city there is a French Cemetery and just beyond a Police Station. Further on I pass the local Commonwealth Cemetery and after reaching the memorial cenotaph I am fortunate enough to book a room at a local hotel opposite. Once settled in I hurry out to visit the War Museum which is an underground experience full of interest containing many artefacts and history of the Great War and the front line at Albert. Tomorrow I will observe the silence at the city memorial; then catch a train to Lille where I can make my journey home

Day 9 Remembrance Day 11/11/2016 – Albert
Today is spent en route with the local band precession as we make our way round Commonwealth, French And British Cemeteries paying tribute to those who gave their lives in the field of battle to set others free. It is also about recognising the importance of wearing a poppy as a symbol of peace. After all It is not the fault of those who died here in battle a century ago that humanity has failed to learn about the futility of war; the evidence here suggests this would have been one of the harshest lessons dealt up on a military scale. Many of the young men who fought here were part of ‘Kitchener’s Army’, a brigade of friends and families from villages all around the UK stiffened up with a few ‘old regulars’ from the BEF. Thrust into battle by generals schooled in Crimea War tactics, the Battle of the Somme became known as the worst military disaster in British History.
Wear your poppy with pride and remember these young lads marched to their deaths in the name of freedom; I hope one day yet humanity will find a more peaceful path to tread.

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To honour our war history and fallen soldiers please continue to wear a poppy each year and understand that it represents peace. You can also make a donation at my charity page for the British Legion: http://www.justgiving.com/Robin-Moore8Britleg

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SUMMER NEWSLETTER 2016

SUMMER FUNDRAISING/ACTIVITIES

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‘Hawker’s’ famous church at Morwenstow.

 

THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE 2016
Saturday 20th August
Today marks the journey to Morwenstow to commence my Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge. The day starts in turmoil at Redruth Station where ‘the whole world and its mother’ is trying to board a 5 carriage train bound for the Scottish Highlands. You’d think this time of year a couple more carriages would have been the sensible approach in providing a fair service to the high-paying travelling public. And once the Spanish students board at Plymouth there is no possible movement beyond one’s seat. Fire Risk! You wouldn’t stand a chance here!
Any way beyond Exeter the bus journey to Bude provided some solace in between much-needed catnaps (it was a two plus hour journey) though sadly deposited me at the town centre in pouring rain and gale force wind. When I say wind it wasn’t even possible to wear a bobble hat! Then finally it sinks in that there are no buses running to Morwenstow thus subjecting me to a ten-mile road march to reach the start point of my journey.
It is not unusual for me to have a warmup day before the start of a major challenge – the most I achieved before a walk was 47 miles – bit over-zealous on that occasion!
Passing a campsite, I enquire how much to pitch a tent – £30 plus is the reply – stuff that is my retort; Cornwall doesn’t need to be leisure capital of ‘Rip Off Britain’ – the tents worth less than that. Holidaymakers beware!
Continuing through Stibb and later Coombe Valley I gain some shelter from the on-coming storm. I see a sign for the Bush Inn, Morwenstow which says 2 miles – great I think, but an hour later I see another one saying Bush Inn 1.75 miles and so it goes on.
Two hours and three more sign posts later I finish the final mile to the village and locate the inn; at last I have sanctuary, good ale a hot meal and hopefully tomorrow a chance to start my walk along the famous Cornish Pilgrimage from Hawker’s Church to St Michael’s Mount.

Day 1 The Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 – August 21st – 26 miles
After a windswept night a sustaining breakfast at the Bush Inn sets me back on course for a new day as I head off in search of the official Pilgrimage starting point at Morwenstow Church.
The parish of Morwenstow gains much credence from its long association with Reverend Robert Hawker an eccentric vicar and poet who preached at the church from 1834 until his death in 1875. As a deeply compassionate man he sought to provide Christian burials for the many dead Mariners who had succumbed to the Kingdom’s most brutal coastline and as the Pilgrimage takes shape along the North Coast Footpath I find his little hut built of driftwood. Here he would spend many hours writing poetry and looking out across the Atlantic Anvil for those in peril on the sea.
A few more ascents lead me away from the past as the satellite dishes at Stanbury Point bring Cornwall into the 21st century. Further undulations take in Duckpool where I startle a hawk resting by the cliff edge; it takes off in front of my eye line and drops to a ledge below. On my next climb I speak to a couple of ladies enjoying their mandatory dose of exercise; by now many groups were parading the cliff tops as I encountered Sharpnose Point, Sandy mouth and finally Bude – now under siege of inclement weather.
I ponder long enough for refreshment at the Globe where the majority of holidaymakers appear to be taking shelter from our seasonal weather. Later I grab a pasty from a corner shop and across the road acquire a passport stamp at the Tourist Office. This no country for old folk! As the prevailing wind and rain fails to captivate even the most ardent bad weather enthusiasts and meets only the approval of local water fowl and a handful of seasoned fishermen frequenting the Bude Canal. The canal forms the preliminary stages of my walk to Langdon Cross and is the official start of The Cornish Way National Cycle and Walking Route. Although now benign, the canal once played a significant part in Cornwall’s Industrial Revolution largely transporting sand from the North Coast to inland farms where it could be used as fertiliser.
As the cycle route peels away from the canal it follows a course to Marhamchurch where I pause briefly to take a photograph of the church of St Morwenna. Passing through the village I continue towards Week St Mary, the next 4 miles of which are dominated by farmland. A herd of goats give their opinion of my effort and bewildered cattle stare at me as though I am some sort of anthropological curiosity – ‘Who’s this strange beast pounding through our countryside’. Soon normality is restored and grazing resumes. Thankfully traffic is minimal and with no facilities open at the village of Week St Mary I march on towards Clubworthy. I see a few signs for North Petherwin and during the final blast of the day I come across the billboard for the Otter Sanctuary; this provides me with a moment of solace too as I am nearing completion of today’s journey and at the next junction I cross to shelter at the Countryman Inn where carvery awaits which at least dispels some of the discomfort of yet another ‘Cornish summer day’.
Day 2 Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 -August 22nd – 21 miles
Langdon Cross to Five Lanes
After a laboured effort yesterday along the coast path and Cornish Way I was fortunate enough to be given a room for my toil at the Countryman Inn; a guest had failed to show up and I became the benefactor – ‘Fortune favours the Brave’ on this occasion and I certainly needed a shower and comfort to enjoy a proper nights sleep.
Rising at 7am I enjoy a good breakfast and plan my route for the day. It is something of a mixture starting on the busy country link into Launceston (B3254) where the narrow sections require a cautious approach. Stopping briefly at Yeolmbridge I mark up some sign posts with Pilgrimage stickers and then make steady progress to St Stephens Church. From here the road drops to Launceston Stream Railway; on the descent I pass Newport House where I had stayed on previous travels. The lady retired some years ago yet the place still evokes happy memories and I feel a sense of well-being each time I pass by it; I recall it being pleasantly antiquated and the lady proprietor was a lovely person of old tradition.
On reaching the railway I pause to take photos of the passengers waiting to board the noon train to Newmills Farm. I intend to visit the station in a while but for now I ascend the hill into town passing the old Norman Castle Ruin which remains Launceston’s most ancient landmark. Arriving at the Tourist Office I collect my stamp and the lady enquiries about this year’s pilgrimage and whether I stayed at The countryman the previous evening. I am happy to confirm a pleasurable stay there and after bidding farewell for another year I locate Sarah’s Bakery and stop for a coffee.
After the interval I return to the railway for a bit of old-fashioned nostalgia which makes my time in Launceston all the more satisfying.
After speaking to Nigel Beaumont, the founder of Launceston Railway, I obtain a special stamp from the platform shop. For a moment time stands still as I admire the old worlde advertising boards displaying products fashioned in a pre-decimal era when the waft of coal -fired engines was an every day event. Today the schedule runs on the hour every hour though to my sadness the train is presently en route to the hamlet of Newmills. Tregadillet is a mile uphill from Newmills which I make on foot along the byway formed from the railway bridge beyond the old priory. It is 2.5 miles to Newmills then a further mile to Tregadillet. At the top of the village is the Eliot Arms where a sudden attack of thirst prompts me to step inside. This inn was the starting point of my first big walk in 1992 and remains a popular meeting place. I recall a group called TWATS (Tregadillet walkers and train spotters) who took the train from Launceston to Newmills and then climbed the steep hill to the pub where they enjoyed sandwiches and refreshment. The simple pleasures still remain the most rewarding in life whatever one’s title – God Bless them!
My stay here was appreciated too, for beyond here lies a complex network of roads which I need to follow in order to stay clear of the A30. The first mile follows the old road out of the village where I cross at the roundabout to pick up the byway to Kennards House and the South Petherwin Junction. The diminutive road is less demanding as it veers away from the A30 leaving the din of traffic behind for awhile; it is well marked and ensures I make it to the junction without any bother. Turning right onto the busy B3254 is another matter demanding complete concentration and precise crossings to counter the narrow bends that prevail along this hazardous section. Two miles into the trek I cross a single track bridge, climb a hill which takes in another narrow section and at the top I bear right onto a farm track to Lewannick – phew – what a relief! The farm track proves to be innocuous without even a tractor to disrupt the 2-mile journey to Lewannick. After passing St Martin’s Church I grab a pasty from the Post Office and a pint at the local pub before returning to the task. The main road journey from here to Five Lanes is only 3 miles but the Pilgrimage adds a further 2 along the quieter byways and farm tracks. It traverses Kelly’s House and Plusha; then crossing the Callington/Bodmin Road I locate the farm route which is a mixture of woods, paddocks with a few scattered houses; the last mile follows the course of the A30 as it closes in on Five Lanes where I conclude my journey at the KIng’s

Day 3 The Cornish Pilgrimage 2016 – August 23rd
Five Lanes to St Kew – 21 miles
It was a pleasant evening at The Kings Head in Five Lanes last night and I slept well in the tent despite heavy dew and a ‘slug invasion’ at dawn. Today looks good and I enjoyed a full English Breakfast to get me back on the road with Altarnun just half a mile down the hill.
The gentle descent encompassed by woodlands sets up the day nicely and soon the church of St Nonna comes into view – behold ‘The Cathedral of the Moor’ as it is known locally, and more prestigiously, a title befitting of its grandeur. Altarnun is the archetypal olde worlde village with running stream and green but the church puts it in a world of its own and I enjoyed my tour inside where I met the warden briefly. After a cheerful interaction he signs my passport and I depart via the church footpath which leads to a country byway; from here I pass Nathania’s Pilgrim Hostel and later a little moorland pub called the Rising Sun. Bearing left I follow the road round to the Route 3 junction at Davidstowe Aerodrome. Here the slim trail skirts Crowdy Resevoir on its course to Camelford and along the way I see many cyclists, a few touring motorists and an abundance of sheep which frequent this wild, windswept terrain. I exchange greetings with other athletes enjoying their daily tonic of exercise and by 1pm I am making my descent along Roughter Road to ‘Arthur’s Kingdom’. The bright sunshine makes Camelford all the more welcoming and with time to relax I visit Jo’s pub, The Mason’s Arms and enjoy a peaceful beer in the garden. An hour later I make a further excursion to the Post Office to obtain some funds, then I am on my way again. Leaving Camelford, at the end of the cycle route I cross right to pick up the Trewalder Byway which passes Bowood Hotel and golf course. Beyond here I capture a glimpse of Lanteglos Church and then it’s off along the winding narrow roads associated with this section of the Pilgrimage. Villages are sparse here – more a spread of farm cottages broken by St Teath and Pendoggit – the latter I bypass as I make my descent to St Kew. The antiquity of this little village sizes up well with Altarnun complete with old church and inn of similar age. The masons lived at the site of the inn for ten years whilst building the Church of St James the Great and as ale was an important part of their diet they used the premise to brew their own. It must have ignited a good social forum during that decade because once they had completed their mission the old dwelling was officially licensed as a pub (around 1495) and is still known as St Kew Inn. I found the place delightfully intriguing and felt privileged to be able to camp the night on the pub garden opposite the iconic 15th century church.
St Kew

Day 4 The Cornish Pilgrimage – August 24th
St Kew to Wadebride – 16 miles
Leaving the St Kew Inn, I take the steep ascent out of the village and then turn left onto the St Minver Road. It is much cooler today and I progress well along the byway ticking off all the appropriate junctions which form the Pilgrim Route. The rustic landscape ensures there is plenty of activity along these narrow lanes where tractors toil to move their harvest and I am quiet shocked to see a bus squeeze past leaving no room for even the slimmest of pedestrians let alone a tank like me! Re-emerging from a nearby gateway, I gather my composure and make light work to Rock where I stop to grab a sandwich. Both my feet are hurting – the left has a series of burst blisters covering most my heel (some of this was caused on last week’s Oundle Pilgrimage in the Nene Valley) and more concerning is a sore Achilles’ tendon. Ignoring the pain I plod on towards the ferry terminal with thoughts of visiting Padstow and its endearing world of Rick Stein.
Any hope of a swift crossing is soon dispelled on arrival at the shore where the whole world and its grandparents where queuing back to the road and half way up the hill. I really can’t see the pleasure in spending money on a holiday such as this which involves constant queuing.
By the time I reach Padstow I had lost the impetus of the day and struggle to make any headway through the crowd. All around people are queuing to spend the coin of fun – shops, cafes – even toilets – it was like watching cattle being herded along the street. I felt a sense of relief reaching the Camel Trail but it was short-lived as I could barely get going amid the throng of tourists who are clearly captivated by the sight of ‘two wheels’. Eventually I steal some grassland beside the trail and continue nipple high in cyclists. They come in their droves – all shapes and sizes – some of the ‘telletubies’ don’t look safe and are clearly traumatised by the experience; and there are adults that can’t even ride a three wheeler! Then of course you get the mandatory pair of ‘tanks’ who come along two abreast (and that was a sight for sore eyes!) bullying all else into submission; though I must concede it prompted a rye smile watching every one scatter into the vegetation! By the time I reach Wadebridge the mayhem of holiday season proves too much and so I decide to call it a day and attend to my feet. I book into the Swan Hotel for the night and on foot inspection find my right shoe is full of blood resultant from a burst blister – can’t believe it is that bad! A good scrub down and a spot of food soon puts pay to the discomfort leaving the rest of my day in front of the TV watching the cricket.

Day 5 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 25th 2016
Wadebridge to Pentewan – 27 miles
Leaving Bodmin around 9am provides a good start along a much quieter Camel Trail than yesterday, and I enjoy the early steps stopping for a moment to look at the old train station next to the town’s library. There are definitely no camels present along this track which is largely characterised by its connection with the old days of steam. Before the Beeching axe fell this section formed part of the Great Southern Railway which followed the Camel Estuary to its terminus at Padstow, now the fish processing halls which earn the town a healthy living (any one remember Rick Stein!).
As the journey progresses away from Wadebridge I enjoy glimpses of its former life; well-restored platforms and time tables set partially in wooded escarpment gave it the ‘look of a railway’. At Boscarne Junction I bear right on the pedestrian footpath which forms part of my route via Nanstallon to Lanivet. After crossing a bridge a group of children escort me uphill to the village and ensure I take the correct road. This forms from the left of the Boscarne Sign post and so I follow its course to the Bodmin/Lanivet Road. After a quick blast of traffic I reach the village and immediately call into the chip shop to order some lunch.
Like Camelford chip shop, this plaice is also known as the best chip shop in England! But I have to confess it is very nice. Progressing beyond here along the Saints Way I soon become familiarised with the rural countryside which is presently busy with harvest duties. Some of the roads are a but tight but I am able to use my climbing skills to keep out of trouble; trees and gates are generally ok but I find hedge rows and barbed wire fences a bit of a problem – welcome to modern life on an ancient pilgrim route!
The journey continues inexorably for most of the time interacting with hamlets and farm yards where dogs herald my arrival at each passing place. People also take note of my progress, and at Luxulyan a guy pulls up to say well done; we had met earlier on The Camel Trail when he was doing his morning cycle ride; he went on to say he had cycled to Lourdes in France last year and is keen to do the Camino de Santiago – good on him – what a great challenge for him to do!
Luxulyan Valley provides an inspiring late afternoon session amid wild beauty and refreshing sound of running water’; en route a train thunders across the lofty viaduct and beyond here I walk through the grounds of the Eden Project. The path on the far left continues along Route 3 into St Austell; it is also possible to continue to Charlestown and Porthpean; occasionally I use this route when I need to call in to Mount Edgecombe Hospice. Today I just follow the course into the town centre and later exit along the Pentewan Tramroad. On completion of the cycle route I follow the coast path to the Pentewan Campsite where the receptionist finds me a spot to camp (19.30pm) – and obviously I had a pint after that lot!

Day 6 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 26th
Pentewan to St Just-in-Roseland Creek
Setting off along the coast path in brilliant sunshine I enjoy the all round panoramic views across St Austell Bay. It is a strenuous first section as the trail climbs several paddocks on the way to the summit – the cattle need a good head for heights here! Reaching the peak there is a grass park with benches overlooked by a few houses and from here I follow the rows of cottages as they tumble to the harbour. The water scene is a mix of pleasure craft and fishing vessels and all around people are enjoying the holiday atmosphere. Bank Holiday looms and I need to get clear of these vastly popular seaside places. Struggling through the crowds I make my way to Portmellon where the pub ladies replenish my water supply to combat one of the hottest days of the year.
Moving away from the coast I pass all the rural communities along the way stopping briefly at the campsite at Boswinger for more water; later I cross the grounds of Caerhay’s Castle en route to Porthlunny Cove. The place is a hive of beach lovers who gather to enjoy the incoming tide and the tearoom nearby has a queue stretching from the car park; there is money to be made everywhere here today and as I leave more tourists struggle to obtain a space to park. My journey continues uphill via the coast path to Porthalland where I take a dip in the sea to cool down – then a cup of tea to relax. Heading back inland I reach the ‘Round Houses’ of Veryan; unusual buildings but effective in the days when the Devil lurked in every corner of a dwelling. He was not present today and so the challenge continues without disruption. After collecting groceries at the villageI continue to Porthgower for my last glimpse of the sea for awhile and after a quick burst along the St Mawes Road I turn off in the direction of Philleigh.
The road winds itself around the farmland and I cross some of the pastures via a footpath; soon I am approaching the Roseland Inn where I decide to take a break and indulge in some much-needed supper. The evening cools down as I set of for the final session which is a little painful on now blistered feet. I reach the creek before dusk and settle in a field nearby.

Day 7 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 27th 2016
St Just-in-Roseland to Carharrack – 14 miles
Waiting by the boatyard whilst enjoying the serenity of the creek, Clive and Craig appear on the waves paddling ‘No Worries’ (name of the canoe) up to the shore. Shortly after mooring the Flushing Gig Rowing Team arrive to ferry across the water to Point. As the day progresses the temperature rises and I feel refreshed and grateful for my privileged passage across the estuary.
Docking briefly at Point I disembark bidding my comrades ‘Bon Voyage’ after three cheers for their beloved companion who died recently at a Cornwall Hospice which looked after him in his final days. I arrange to meet Clice and Craig later at the Coppice Inn, Lanner then set off to Devoran Quay I meet Anne for a snack and beer.
After the break I continue across the Portreath Tramroad towards Bissoe. The sunshine draws people across the Tramroad; dog walkers, cyclists and even joggers who can sustain the heat. I stop again at Bissoe for coffee and cake then press on to Twelveheads where I ascend to the old Redruth & Chacewater Railway which is an appropriate way to finish the day. Carharrack and Lanner here we come; and tomorrow all being well we’ll take a hike along the Gwennap Pilgrimage for the local section of the challenge. Hopefully we can provide some video footage for this leg and on Tuesday the journey continues to St Ives by way of Route 3, The St Michael’s Way and Coast Path.

Days 8/9 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – The Gwennap Section
28/29th August
Having reached home territory I have 2 days to walk our local section known as The Gwennap Pilgrimage due to its association with the village and church near Trevince Woods and Comford, and the amphitheatre – Gwennap Pit where John Wesley preached in the 19th century. Starting at the Coppice Inn the route crosses the old Tresavean Tramway and continues above Lanner Village. The village largely evolved from a farm hamlet as a direct consequence of the mining industry; the Tresavean Mine and Tramway required intense labour which in turn gave rise to the terraces which stand here today. In ancient times Lanner was a staging post in a pilgrimage via St Day to St Michael’s Mount, my destination also by mid-week.
At the end of the Tramway the main Cornish Pilgrimage Spurs off to the left of Tram Cross Lane and heads of to Churchtown and Carn Brea via the Great Flat Lode which will form the first stage of my journey tomorrow. The Gwennap section, however, bears right down the hill and across the Falmouth Road where it meets Carn Marth and follows a course along the mining trail to Pennance Consols Mine. Taking the path on the left it continues past an amphitheatre and lake at the top where it makes a descent towards Gwennap Pit. There’s a left turn by a derelict farm building then a further descent to the road where another left turn leaves a trek of about a quarter of a mile the famous landmark. John Wesley preached at the open air amphitheatre on 18 occasions from 1776 onwards, and services are still held here occasionally. The pit was naturally formed from mining subsidence during a period when the Gwennap Region made up the richest square mile on the planet. John Wesley’s would have shown little interest in such prosperity as his concern was for the ordinary people who toiled in this great period of Cornish History.
From here the trail descends to Vogue Shute and the Star Inn; it continues through St Day by the old church, leaving the village via School Hill where it joins a footpath to Carharrack and St Piran’s Church.
Beyond the church it descends to Sparry Lane following a mining trail into Trevince Woods; the path runs for about a mile to the top of Gwennap and it is possible to observe many species of fauna that reside on the estate.
Leaving the woods along a country road on the right the journey rolls down the hill beside a stream to Gwennap Church. The serene churchyard is a good spot to visit and services are held here each Sunday along with other events/functions.
A few hundred yards from the church locate the byway on the right and ascend through the estate to Comford hill; cross carefully and join the byway to Trevarth which is less than half a mile. Joining the Lanner Road make the final descent to the Coppice to conclude the journey.

Day 10 The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 30th
Carharrack to St Ives – 26 miles
Having enjoyed my Bank Holiday tour of the Gwennap Region, I head off along Tram Cross Lane to the top of Tresavean Tramway Junction; then after a short walk uphill I bear right and take the byway to Copper Lane. My friend Anne is cycling ahead and we both take footage of the awe-inspiring landscape which affords all round views from the North Coast to Carn Brea Castle and back towards Redruth and Carn Marth.
Descending to Churchtown we pass St Euny Church and follow Route3 to the Carne; briefly it adopts The Great Flat Lode over the top as far as the Mineral Centre at Pool. Having reached this landmark Anne begins her return journey to Lanner while I continue on Route 3 to Camborne enjoying highlights of Heartlands, the new centre at Pool funded by the Lottery, and the many derelict engine houses that continue to haunt the landscape. The gaunt relics still emanate a voice from the past reminding us that they helped to make this region the richest square few miles in the world during the peak of Cornwall’s the Industrial Revolution.
After crossing the railway track to reach Camborne I stop for a break at Wetherspoons; then continue along The Cornish Way to Penponds. A diminutive trail leads me past a park and joins a narrow lane on its course through these rural outposts of the journey to Hayle. Passing through Penponds a train roars past above momentarily disturbing the solitude of village life. Joining a slim trail on the right below the railway tunnel I march on to Carnell Green; here the road widens and there are crop fields on both sides as I make my way to Gwineer. There is a greater flow of traffic here and amazingly a few walkers too! Cyclists use the road because it forms part of Route 3 which we adopt as passage for our Pilgrimage to Hayle.
Reaching Hayle I am pleased to see it is only 2pm and a brisk march across the estuary enables me to escape the busy streets reaching Lelant 20 minutes later. There is no respite here as the surge of holidaymakers proves unrelenting, yet by chance I catch sight of a fascinating pub called The Water Mill and decide it is time to take refuge and quench thirst before heading off on the St Michael’s Way which starts at St Uny Church.
This interesting old world pub has quant interior with Victorian working machinery and a large functioning water wheel outside too. After a refreshing interval I leave the commotion of tourism behind – once I manage to cross the bloody road that is! But from then on I indulge myself with the quieter coast lanes of Lelant.
Joining the St Michael’s Way at St Uny Church heralds the beginning of the last and most ancient section of the Pilgrimage to St Michael’s Mount; though there are still some miles to be trodden tomorrow along an arduous course across the wide open spaces of Lelant Downs and Trencrom.
The path is gently undulating with golf course to the right and the beautiful Porth Kidney Sands below with seaward views as far as Godrevy Point. A train chugs past on its way to Carbis Bay and soon a great sea of tourists engulf the beach ahead as I make my ascent towards the holiday centre. I follow the path through the grounds of the Carbis bay Hotel and over a couple of bridges; soon I pass the St Michael’s Way Junction and from here the remainder of today’s journey is completed along the coast path. On arrival in St Ives I head for Ayr Holiday Camp Site and book in for the remainder of the walk. Then it’s sauna, swim and a beer to complete today’s effort. Cheers everyone!

Day 11 – The Cornish Pilgrimage Challenge – August 31st
St Ives to St Michael’s Mount
After a press meeting with Toby from the St Ives ‘Times and Echo newspaper’, I start the day with a steep hike to The Cornish Arms at Carbis Bay where I join Steeple Lane and make further ascent to Knill’s Monument.
There is a bit of drizzle about as I make my way through the bracken to Laity Lane. Turning left I continue by road and pause to speak to a lady walking her dogs; she uses the St Michael’s Way regularly but admits it is one of the more difficult sections of the Cornish Pilgrimage Route to follow.
I find the next sign post by a few scattered houses which leads me through an escarpment; then I cross a paddock and enter farmland which makes up the next mile to a small hamlet near Bowl Rock Chapel. Crossing the road I pass by the chapel and ascend through the cattle field beyond as far as Tremcrom Hill. Here I join a nature park and enjoy a trek as far as the car park where I rejoin the road and then a byway which falls to a solitary Victorian Chapel. The building is now a residential property and soon I am traversing the back garden – colourful it is too I may add! Then another stile; a few more cattle fields and a farm and I find myself descending through another escarpment. Before the trail dips to its lowest point I catch sight of St Michael’s Mount and a little further downhill are a group of pilgrims. I catch them up and discover they hail from Germany and all look to be keen walkers dressed for the occasion. By now wet weather had transformed into another hot summer’s day and the Pilgrimage an ambience of hedge rows, time old features including a ford which can be crossed by a foot bridge and after an ascent by road Panoramic views of Mounts Bay and the idyllic Ludgvan Church. The downhill journey across the paddocks lead to some lovely wooded sections accompanied by the sound of running water. All is quiet at Ludgvan and it is too early for the pub so I continue across the flat farmland to the next road junction. Traffic is full on as one can expect in peak season, but I cross easily, take on the next section which also crosses the A30 and later the main line railway from Penzance.
The rest is a gentle stroll through the marshes to Marazion where the tide is out and I cross easily to the Mount.
The Island is full of Tourists and I fear having a panic attack after an intense walk and dehydration. The Harbour Master sees I am distressed and offers to sign my passport so I can escape the crowds; also I have a press release to secure for this week’s publication and promotion of our support for Cornwall Hospice Care. I now feel I should consider a final leg to Lands End tomorrow as a full end to end journey of Cornwall; it will bring more publicity and reopen old chapters of my old walking history with new meaning to my Pilgrimage. All will be revealed tomorrow!

OVERVIEW OF PILGRIMAGE SEASON 2016
image

As Pilgrimage Season approaches let’s look back in time and take a glim9pse of what has been achieved and the difference that can be made in the name of charity with a bit of community forum. There are two Pilgrimages held in August; one in the Nene Valley and the other in Cornwall to be published next week on this page- this has a new and exciting twist! Both will host fun days on the Saturdays in Question.
The first Pilgrimage takes place between Oundle and Islip from 13th August.
WALKING THE OUNDLE PILGRIMAGE FOR SUE RYDER THORPE HALL
Founded in 2010 it has become an annual ritual to trek around a 46-mile course along the Nene Valley in support of local hospice Thorpe Hall and to show gratitude to the invaluable work they do giving palliative care to terminally ill patients.
During that time I have written 4 guides to encourage other participants to walk/cycle the routes on offer: there are two 6-mile family routes; a 40-mile cycle route; a six mile village pub route and the main guide with at least 4 different phases.
Having put Sue Ryder on the Oundle map with the Pilgrimage (with a couple of spin off events also) we have raised over £20,000 since its origination.
Several local athletes who have walked with me on previous expeditions around the British Isles have become regular participants though we feel the public should be the greater part of this event; after all it is about giving something back to humanity and generally creating solidarity within the local community. With this borne in mind we are endeavoring to host a fundraising weekend at the outer reaches of our Pilgrimage at Islip (this section was extended along the Nene Way from Titchmarsh Nature Reserve and rejoins the main route along a track to Aldwinkle).
The Fun Day will be held at The Rose & Crown, Islip, Nr Thrapston.
A few of us will be camping there on the Friday Night having walked the Southwick /Wadenhoe section; we will then walk the Barnwell/Polebrook section from Oundle on the Saturday.
Sadly our main centre at Trek-Kits has now closed but it will be possible to obtain passports on the day of the walk for £5 at Islip. There are guides available at Coleman’s and Oundle Bookshop and I will endeavor to set up a new Charity HQ in Oundle soon. We will also be publishing from our EBOOKS section at:
Www.robin-moore.co.uk
For more information about The Oundle Pilgrimage Visit:
Oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
FUNDRAISING FOR CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE
Circumnavigating the Maritime Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage for Cornish Charities.

'Hawker's' famous church at Morwenstow.

‘Hawker’s’ famous church at Morwenstow.

ITINERARY
START Morwenstow
Day 1 Launceston
Day 2 Altarnun
Day 3 Camelford
Day 4 Padstow
Day 5 Pentewan
Day 6 St Just-in-Roseland
Day 7 Lanner
Day 8 Gwennap Pilgrimage and Evening Fundraising Quiz
Day 9 St Ives
Day 10 St Michael’s Mount
Personal Objective:
SAM_2480
I intend to walk the entire Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount which will take in a section between the two hospices of Cornwall Hospice Care; from Mount Edgecumbe I will walk to St Just-in-Roseland and camp; meet the Gig Rowers Club from Flushing at appropriate tide time to continue across the River Fal to Devoran; from the quay a group of walkers (and cyclists/equestrians) will aim to complete this section of the Pilgrimage at The Coppice Inn Lanner which will provide post walk entertainment/raffle draw.
MAIN PARTICIPANTS
1) Walkers; Gig rowing club: Contact Dave Matthews: davematthews311@btinternet.com or 07932161677.
2)Walkers from Devoran to Lanner
3)cyclists; equestrians from Devoran to Gwennap Region; it would be nice to involve a local equestrian group to participate from Devoran to the Gwennap Region; they can saddle up at the Coppice or complete their journey at a chosen location in Poldice Valley if preferred.
FUNDRAISING
To optimise the potential of this event we will need to do the following:
1. Obtain Sponsor Forms from co-ordinator Sarah Newton (Cornwall Hospice Care);
Snewton@cornwallhospice.co.uk
Tel: 01726 66869.
2). All participants are required to pay an Entrance Fee – £5 (Paid on the day to organisers). Also we are completing the Gwennap Section with a circular walk from the Coppice on Sunday for any one who may be interested – start 10.30am; entrance fees applicable.
3) At the Coppice Inn, Lanner we already have a fundraising quiz month throughout August each Wednesday night; this will reach a grand final on the eve of Sunday 28th and we hope to provide some light entertainment on completion of the main walk at Coppice Inn Saturday night; it would be a nice gesture if the public could see fit to pay £1 towards the cause; Also there will be a raffle draw at the pub – probably on the Sunday.
4) Online justgiving page to be posted on websites and Face Book pages.
5). Input from local companies who will subsequently get a mention in the publication/media. We will need Hospice Jars at all locations Relating to both the Pilgrimage and this individual event! Locally this is already in place.

MARKETING

We should look at obtaining a sponsor for Cornish Pilgrimage Shirts ‘Supporting local charities’ so we can properly represent the Hospices; local papers; networking sites; Cornish Magazines; Radio Cornwall; I’ll deliver leaflets for the whole Pilgrimage walk over the course of the Summer. We will finish with a Fun Day at The Coppice Inn (Incl Band, Raffle Draw, Book-signing and it may be possible to provide a BBQ or Pilgrim’s Supper).
STRENGTHS
1). Will set the Pilgrimage in the calendar as an annual charity event whereby we may do a different section of it or simply allocate the Maritime Leg as an August Venue. The route can be used by equestrians, cyclists and walkers/athletes; hopefully our enthusiasm and effort will pave the way clear for new participants to join us in future events such as our local Bank Holiday Walks.
2). There is a Pilgrimage Website with GPS maps for all nine sections.
3) Guides and passports to participate all available; posters and guides can be purchased at Gwennap Pit, St Day PO, Coppice Inn and in some libraries and Tourist Offices.
WEAKNESSES
1). Encouraging the public to participate is hard when promoting endurance events – will need to spend more marketing on ‘ A Fun Day out’ with entertainment to follow. As athletes we have a duty to lead the way and donate our time through our hobbies to celebrate helping a worthy cause.
2). Events are largely funded through book sales but recently most of this has been donated to charity organisations. It would therefore be necessary for a business to step forward and finance printing costs and other admin. Keltek has looked after some of these requirements and I have funded the remainder (I only have a carers allowance to live on!)
OPPORTUNITIES
Fundraising Recap
1) Boxes and sponsor forms at the appropriate locations
2) Fundraising Quiz at the Coppice each Wednesday for Cornwall Hospice Care Pilgrimage Event throughout August Culminating with a Final on the Bank Holiday Sunday; the quiz team will continue to support the final leg of my journey to St Michael’s Mount scheduled to finish on Wednesday 31st August.
3) Live entertainment and raffle over the Bank Holiday Period.
4). The full pilgrimage journey will enable me to hand out flyers (printed by Keltek Brewery) with all info regarding fundraising events and opportunities to sponsor the charity. I will leave collection jars at my stopovers; also I can ensure the route is well-maintained and way marked throughout its entirety. I will try to win co-operation from the remaining tourist offices and libraries who have not yet supported the Pilgrimage and generally try to create more awareness/ exposure. Regions covered so far include: St. Ives; Redruth; Gwennap Pit; Falmouth; Truro; Parts of St Austell Bay; Padstow and North Cornwall. I guess efforts should be made to promote in Penzance and St Mawes. and Bissoe Cycle Hire.
5). It is essential we work with as many local companies/organisations as possible to receive good support for our efforts and to significantly raise the profile of Cornwall Hospice Care.
THREATS
1). The tide will be a major obstacle when negotiating the creek at Devoran – so our co-ordination will be paramount!
2). Cyclists and equestrians should leave before the walkers to ensure a safer passage.
Please visit the following sites to obtain a greater insight into The Cornish Pilgrimage Route and ideology:
Www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
Www.robin-moore.co.uk
Follow Robin Moore on YouTube or visit ‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity on FaceBook’.

LANNER WALKS
Starting at the Coppice we will walk a number of circular routes between 3-5 miles. Literature, books and guides relevant to the region, plus a few titles covering my overseas challenge walks will be on sale at the inn. Lunch menu is available throughout the week with carvery served until 3pm on Sunday.
The Coppice Inn at Lanner is proving to be a popular meeting place for walkers wishing to follow the old tramways/mineral trails and the Cornwall Pilgrimage Route along the Gwennap Region which is as rich in ancient history as it is in mining traditions.

Working with Lanner Council and the Coppice I hope to achieve a greater interest in local walks; it is a project which will also help build a good social forum within the community as well as a healthier lifestyle.

In addition to the Lanner walks will be hosting theme walks for each Bank Holiday Sunday in aid of Cornwall Hospice Care; these will involve walking the Gwennap Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage (10 miles) finishing with entertainment/live music and raffle draw at the Coppice afterwards. Also, I will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount during Spring and Summer months stopping at regional checkpoints each day; those who wish to indulge in a day plus of endurance walking can join me at any stage of the walk when we will also be promoting the Pilgrimage and CHC. During the course of the year we hope to hold cheque presentations to the charity with funds raised from our walks. These are usually four-figure sums; so far this year the Cornish Pilgrimage has raised around £500; all being well the next presentation could be after the Easter Gwennap Walk.
Visit ‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook’ for fundraising events.

NEW BOOK TITLES
Robin Moore’s West Coast Walk of New Zealand
Lanner Walks (volumes 1 to 6)
Hopefully the New Year will start positively with a few local booklets/guides followed by an account of my 2013 expedition on the South Island of New Zealand.

RESOURCES
For further information and videos/books about walking please visit:
http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
Also check out the new Lanner Website available in the New Year and the Coppice Inn Facebook page.
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Face Book’ and also YouTube for video footage.
For more about Robin Moore, Iconic Journeys (30,000 miles of expeditions), adventure walking books and travel guides visit:
Www.robin-moore.co.uk

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SPRING NEWSLETTER 2016

CP - FRont Cover

SPRING NEWSLETTER 2016

Fundraising for local charities in the Nene Valley.

Fundraising for local charities in the Nene Valley.


The amount above represents funds raised in the Nene Valley during the 2015 campaign which comprised of the Oundle Pilgrimage for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall, Robin Moore’s latest European walk which supports Prostate Cancer Uk and Cancer Research. Special thanks go to Wendy and family at The Angel Inn, Oundle where the presentation was held; also to Simon at the Rose & Crown, Oundle; and Mark and Rachael at The Rose & Crown Islip. ‘I can only apologise for not working harder to raise the customary four figure sum but in mitigation I am now a carer for my mother so it is difficult to organise charity work away from Cornwall. I am however heavily involved in supporting local charities across the Kingdom of Cornwall.
FUNDRAISING FOR CORNWALL HOSPICE CARE
Robin Moore walks for local charities and National causes having completed 30.000 miles on foot to date since 1992. He has also written numerous adventure books and walking guides: see: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
His project The Cornish Pilgrimage is dedicated to Cornwall Hospice Care, raising awareness and funds for the charity as well as providing a good discovery route for Leisure/Recreation and Tourism.
THE CORNSH PILGRIMAGE

The advent of Spring provides the perfect incentive to get outdoors and enjoy warmer weather and lighter evenings. From Easter onwards the local community will be doing their bit to support Cornwall Hospice Care. Robin enthuses’We have already raised £500 from our 2015 Autumn effort and now aim to increase the fundraising purse to four figures by May. It is a realistic goal but would be a laudable effort to do this as the Gwennap Region is diminutive compared to the larger towns. I have raised thousands of pounds before at Carharrack and Comford so am confident this project will benefit the local charity.’ The complete 200-mile Pilgrimage of Cornwall is covered in 9 sections from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount along an ancient and modern route. It takes in cycle trails, old pilgrim routes, tramways, byways, canal, riverside and coast paths. Cycle access/alternatives are included in the guide or on our website: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
WITSUN WALK
Starting at Hayle we hope to walk The Cornish Pilgrimage to the Coppice Inn, Lanner on Witsun Bank Holiday Weekend (Sat 28th May) – ‘Come and join us and help raise money for Cornwall Hospice Care’!

MAY BANK HOLIDAY PILGRIMAGE ALONG THE CORNISH PILGRIMAGE


This section of the Cornish Pilgrimage Route runs for almost 15 miles along the Cornish Way Cycle Route via Gwinear, Camborne, Heartlands and the Gwennap Pilgrimage tramways. Off-road sections are covered on public footpaths and byways taking in ancient monuments and relics of industrial heritage.
This season’s fundraising started with great enthusiasm on Saturday 26th March with 8 Ball Boogie Band playing at The Coppice; and on Easter Sunday at 10.30, the first walk took place at The Coppice car park Lanner via the Tresavean Tramway and Carn Marth. We also walked on May Day Bank Holiday Sunday at The Coppice who hosted the motor bike annual rally. We will continue walking each bank holiday Sunday with a special event arranged for St Day Feast.

Part of the Feast Day Trail near Pink Moors

Part of the Feast Day Trail near Pink Moors


THE 2016 FEAST WEEKEND PILGRIMAGE WALK -Sunday 5th June
Raising Funds For Cornwall Hospice Care at The Star Inn, Vogue
START: 11am
VENUE: The Star Inn
DISTANCE: 5 miles
ENTRANCE FEE: £5 per person (this entitles participants to a Cornish Pilgrimage Passport and Certificate on Completion).
Using public footpaths and tramways associated with The Cornish Pilgrimage Route, this 5-mile walk takes in St Day, Crofthandy and Poldice Valley. We hope to break for refreshment at Scorrier before returning to the Star Inn via Mount Ambrose and Pink Moors.
For more information about The Cornish Pilgrimage please visit:
Www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Face Book and YouTube
All the events are sponsored by charity walker Robin Moore and KELTEK Brewery. There are collection jars at each pub and we invite our patrons to make a contribution to Cornwall Hospice Care in support of the event.
EBOOKS/NEW BOOK TITLES
Please visit our EBOOKS Section at http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
And purchase our latest colour booklets (print set up is as A5). New titles include the Pilgrimage guides and A Pilgrimage of War and Words based on a visit to the battle fields of The Great War. Forth-coming titles feature ‘A Pub Walk in The Nene Valley’ and Robin Moore’s West Coast walk of New Zealand.
OTHER INFORMATION AND ACTIVITIES
As well as our website and GPS maps of routes, we have walking guides available at our local inns: The Star Inn; The Coppice Inn and other outlets which include:
The Cornish Library, Redruth
The Cornish Bookshop, Redruth
The Lanner Council
Gwennap Pit
The St Day Post Office
The main Cornish Pilgrimage Guides are available at some of the Tourist Offices en route and bookshops in Penzance and St Ives. We will endeavour to produce them on the EBOOKS page of http://www.robin-moore.co.uk and possibly Amazon at a later time in the year.
Videos of all of Robin Moore’s Pilgrimages can be found on YouTube and Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity Page.
Robin will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage throughout the Spring publishing and promoting his charity work. Any one wishing to join him on any part of the walk should look out for the itinerary post on his website and get in touch at either the Coppice or Star inn.
For the good of the community, Robin leads a volunteer litter-picking walk along part of the Gwennap Pilgrimage weekly on either Thursday or Saturday to help with the upkeep of our local footpaths. He also takes walking groups for tours along the Lanner/Vogue Region at weekends (some weekdays); starting from the Coppice Inn these include 3-5 mile walks catering for elderly social groups too (see website heading LANNEWR WALKS).
Usually our fundraising days are celebrated with entertainment at the inn afterwards which helps create a good social community forum; various local acts, cheese and wine evenings and folk nights/Cornish choir are included in the programme. We will update and advertise any forth-coming events

For more information about events contact The Coppice Inn, Lanner. Tel: 01209216668

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2015 in review

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2015 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

A San Francisco cable car holds 60 people. This blog was viewed about 1,100 times in 2015. If it were a cable car, it would take about 18 trips to carry that many people.

Click here to see the complete report.

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WINTER NEWSLETTER 2015/16

WINTER NEWSLETTER 2015/16
LOCAL WALKS AND FUNDRAISING FOR CHC
1) Litter-picking walk on 1st January 2016
We will be walking the Lanner section of the Gwennap Pilgrimage on New Year’s Day Morning leaving the Coppice inn around 11am. We will be active along Tresavean and Carn Marth as far as Pennance Consols Mine; and on descent along Pennance Lane as we return to the Coppice where we plan to indulge in some New Year refreshment.
2) Lanner Strollers
Starting from Thursday 10th December at noon and most Sunday Mornings from 10am I will be available as a guide to lead walkers keen to explore and enjoy many of our well-kept foot paths and mineral trails. Starting at the Coppice we will walk a number of circular routes between 3-5 miles. Literature, books and guides relevant to the region, plus a few titles covering my overseas challenge walks will be on sale at the inn. Lunch menu is available throughout the week with carvery served until 3pm on Sunday.
OVERVIEW
The Coppice Inn at Lanner is proving to be a popular meeting place for walkers wishing to follow the old tramways/mineral trails and the Cornwall Pilgrimage Route along the Gwennap Region which is as rich in ancient history as it is in mining traditions.
Working with Lanner Council and the Coppice I hope to achieve a greater interest in local walks; it is a project which will also help build a good social forum within the community as well as a healthier lifestyle. In addition to the Lanner walks will be hosting theme walks for each Bank Holiday Sunday in aid of Cornwall Hospice Care; these will involve walking the Gwennap Section of The Cornish Pilgrimage (10 miles) finishing with entertainment/live music and raffle draw at the Coppice afterwards. Also, I will be walking the complete Cornish Pilgrimage from Morwenstow to St Michael’s Mount during Spring and Summer months stopping at regional checkpoints each day; those who wish to indulge in a day plus of endurance walking can join me at any stage of the walk when we will also be promoting the Pilgrimage and CHC. During the course of the year we hope to hold cheque presentations to the charity with funds raised from our walks. These are usually four-figure sums; so far this year the Cornish Pilgrimage has raised around £500; all being well the next presentation could be after the Easter Gwennap Walk.
Other presentations to be held in the New Year include:
The Oundle Pilgrimage Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall – venue:
The Angel Inn, Oundle, Peterborough
Funds raised for Prostate Cancer and Cancer Research UK
will be presented at The Rose & Crown, Islip and The Angel Inn, Oundle.

OVERSEAS EXPEDITIONS
My walk in South Africa has been cancelled owing to my mother’s failing health. Although I am still walking around Europe any expeditions in the immediate future will be minimised to just one week as it is all I can do to arrange overnight nursing care. Routes normally include: Camino de Santiago Trails, Mountain passes. cycle routes and riverside paths. Passport for proof of passage is required and I keep a video diary and blog, which is later published as a book. One of the pleasures is to take numerous photos of landmarks along the way; some of which I paint/sketch or use as book covers. The average walking day is about 50km (often done for charity), sometimes camping rough if the situation demands it. Any one is welcome to join me as long as they are prepared to obtain their own sponsorship – but be warned these expeditions are not for the faint-hearted!! (my companions in South Africa and UK will vouch for this!!)

NEW BOOK TITLES
Robin Moore’s West Coast Walk of New Zealand
Lanner Walks (volumes 1 to 6)
Hopefully the New Year will start positively with a few local booklets/guides followed by an account of my 2013 expedition on the South Island of New Zealand.

RESOURCES
For further information and videos/books about walking please visit:
Robin Moore on YouTube
Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On FaceBook
http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
Also check out the new Lanner Website available in the New Year and the Coppice Inn Facebook page.

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AUTUMN NEWSLETTER 2015

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AUTUMN NEWSLETTER 2015
WALKING EUROPE AND FUNDRAISING
Hospice Care
The Cornish Pilgrimage – raising awareness for Cornwall Hospice Care
This event was originally founded as a discovery trail of Cornwall to be enjoyed by locals and visitors alike though I wanted it to be associated with the local charity which I have supported since the Millennium. This year’s pilgrimage took place over August/September and there is a collection jar at the Coppice Lanner for locals to support my walk. I have been building a support network along the way from Morwenstow to Land’s End so we hope for bigger things to come from this in the future. Meanwhile the Coppice wish to give me support in fundraising and we hope to have a Harvest Auction there as part of my fundraising for the charity. For more about Cornwall Hospice Care visit: http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
Walking for Sue Ryder Thorpe Hall
This year The oundle Pilgrimage took place on 9th/10th August and we will be holding a fundraising presentation evening at The Angel Inn, Oundle at the end of the month and will launch the MOVEMBER campaign at the same time. Please support my walk by donating to the Sue Ryder Jars at all the regions inns and local businesses associated with the Oundle Pilgrimage. For more information about the Oundle Pilgrimage visit: oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
Walking For Prostate Cancer
The Angel Inn collect money from my walks and have a jar in the pub please make a donation when you are next there; The Rose and Crown at Islip support all my walks and have Cancer Research and Prostate Cancer jars also. I have put some serious hard work into the last week which was at times life threatening – so please help all of these worthy causes where possible!
Please read about the expedition below:
Walk 2015 – Arnhem to Luxembourgh starting- Tuesday 22nd September 2015

war cemetery at Arnhem
Day 1 Arnhem Nijmegen – 20km
After a sleepless night at the airport I arrive at Eindovhen, catch a bus to the train station and manage to get the two connections I need for Arnhem. Then walking away from the station I find a cenotaph which commerorates that great battle of September 17th 1944 – ‘The Bridge to Freedom’. After recording my visit I cross a bridge to the Arnhem War Centre where I chat to the tour guide who is a fantastic host, making me a coffee and discussing my present journey through war-torn Europe which had been decimated by two horrific World Wars. On leaving the centre I continue across the bridge and follow a cycle route over an 18-km course to Nijmegen. As the route winds its way in and out of the course of the motorway cyclists becomes the main hazard; they fly past in all forms; motorcyclists without helmets. canoe-shaped and plain old-fashioned with baskets. As I encounter the siege of cyclists bad weather too became an issue, After stopping for fruit at a local grocer, I cape up for a heavy bout of rain and make my way towards the city of Nijmegen. Crossing a 2 km bridge the trail overlooks the city railway network and a couple of extensive barges plying the waterway below. Later stopping at a cafe I meet a guy who runs a cleaning business called DE UITBLINKER which specialises in window cleaning. After enquiring about a campsite he offers to put me up thus sparing me the ordeal of pitching a tent on the outskirts of town and later we go into town to clean some windows!

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Day 2 – Nijmegen to Verden – 65km
After a good night’s rest and great hospitality from my kind host who spoke excellent English I am off to a flyer at 7am! The morning is dull and damp but I make the most of a gun barrel straight cycle trail as fas as Gennep. Here I am apprehended by “InterPlod” who are not keen on me walking their highway. It is all very amicable and once they direct me onto a cycle route beyond the nearby embankment we shake hands and I continue to Heijen where I purchase my first coffee of the day. The sun is now shining as I set off on my quest to reach Venlo which lies another 40km from here and yet I have walked already 25km this morning!
Another 10 km encounters the communities of Afferden, Bergen where I purchase a salad and bottle of water for lunch and near Well I have anther coffee around 3pm.
Drifting on through many small communities the day passes by as I cover nearly 60km and as dusk approaches bringing rain I camp in a woodland by the road – 5km short of Venlo.
Day 3 Verden to Heinsberg (Germany) 55km
Amazingly I wake to a dry morning and tent; with all these positive elements to spur me on I make ground to Venlo where I enjoy a good breakfast at Prins Hendrik Cafe; from here I try to locate the Tourist Office for assistance with my route. It is a vibrant town and the main centre is presently undergoing a bit of TLC. Continuing along the cycle route I manage to find my way out of the town and the sign posts now register Roemond which lies 23 km from here. The day passes quickly though for most of it I am under siege from the constant flow of cyclists along this flat open countryside. People are kind and helpful and the sublime architecture of the older places break up the journey and help to relax my mind. My walk to Roemond went quickly having enjoyed Telegen and all the riverside views as and when they appear. Away from the water I reach Pumerholt where I stop for coffee and a rest from the back-breaking pack which has dug its way into my shoulder blades. Leaving after 6pm I encounter a shower and the overcast condition bring about an early dusk. As I march against clock with darkness iminent I find myself approaching Heinsberg and with it comes my first border crossing which sees me on German soil; feeling tired I check into the first hotel I can lay my hands on and call it a day!!

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Day 4 Heinsberg (Germany) to Nr Eupen 53km
It’s a brighter day as I prepare to set off along the B221 for Aachen near the border of Belgium; this I find on the outskirts of the city. Soon I am walking the trail and for once I am not nipple-high in Dutch cyclists! The morning unfolds nicely amid windmills and sunshine reaching Geilenkrichen around 11am. After coffee I head off in blissful isolation taking in many villages and towns where I find it difficult to link up with the correct route out of each place. At last Aachen is within my grasp – 10km and on this find I treat myself to a MacDonald’s Happy meal before heading off to visit the last big town in Germany then a crossing into Belgium.
The trek through the city lingers on and I have to get help from a young Asian lad who guides me to the Eupen Road. After some interesting side roads and city bustle I manage to leave Aarcen behind and head out towards the Belgium Border. By dusk I am entering a new Frontier and walk to the next town where I purchase groceries; a few km from here I set up camp in a field by the road.
Day 5 Eupen Region to St Vith – 56km
After a damp mirky start I reach the town of Eupen and locate the route to St Vith. There are no cycle routes today and for most part I walk a steep incline as the road takes in forest landscape associated with the national park Hautes Feignes. The region harbours no communities and I do not get any refreshment until reaching the restaurant at Baroque Michel – a lonesome landmark that stands out on this busy highway. After coffee and water I leave in search of a better route to St Vith via Robertville where along the way I see many other walkers at at the local tourist office it transpires that this is the highest point in Belgium – much loved by walkers, cyclists and all that frequent this beautiful area that retains a distinct German influence. On descent the temperature increases and I remove some layers and it is heart-warming too to see many restaurants and along the way. On reaching the beautiful lakes of Robertville I am still 23km from St Vith plus some extra to reach the Luxembourgh Border. After a coffee at the Aubergue de Lac I continue towards the town of Waimes.
At Waimes I locate the cycle route to St Vith which runs for 17km with no places en route though I saw a group enjoying a party midway through the journey. The scenery is amazing viaducts spanning tiny communities fed by the N676 and green pastures dominated by woodlands. The journey drags on into the darkness and on reaching St Vith I am greeted by noisy engines at a rally drive which the town is hosting. No chance of staying here and after grabbing some provisions I leave on the Luxembourg road and camp up near a wood where I am kept company by a braying deer!
Day 5 St Vith to Hosingen Region – 47km
Setting off in the early morning mist I am fortunate to find a hotel open to obtain a breakfast and coffee. The road is a harsh master and the journey is one of toil against constant traffic including Sunday joyriders. The day lingers and 20 km on I finally cross the border in to Luxembourg where I enter the town of Whimperaarct and promptly go for coffee at a nearby super store. After refreshment, wash and change, I am on my way again using the E421 as my route into the city.
My feet are very stiff now and my incapacity to walk properly has caused my left knee some trouble so I strap it up for the remainder of the day. The scenery is a blend of forest and farmland broken by high power windmills which are a popular source of energy. By teatime I stop for a coffee at a shopping mall and with light still good on this sunny day I head off with my quest to walk until dusk. It remains light until after 8pm by which time I can barely walk any further and after purchasing groceries at a garage I set up camp in a wood nearby.
Hosingen Region to Luxembourg – 70km
Traffic continues through the night making me uneasy about the journey ahead. Rising at 6am I take to the road which at first is pleasant enough. I use the tracks beside the highway as my passage occasionally losing my way but always ending up back at the highway. At Ettelbruck I visit a WW2 Site and take photos before heading off in search of the cycle route. I pass through tunnels, busy sections of main road but on joining the cycle route I find peace and tranquility beside the railway line. Reaching Luxembourg around 6pm I still have 10 plus km to reach the main railway station in the city centre-tough hike! I get there at 8pm and manage to book my journey home via Paris starting at 5.42 am the next day. Looking back on my achievement I have walked over 330 km in just over 6 days starting and finishing at a railway station. Like Michael Portillo I have a passion for railways but am not sure he would stretch his legs quite as far as I have to visit one – or even two!
Please visit Robin Moore on YouTube
‘Robin Moore’s Walking For Charity On Facebook’
http://www.robin-moore.co.uk
http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
If you can’t help these charities please could you share this post.

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HISTORIC WALK HELPS WORTHY CAUSES

Devastating effects of The Great War

Devastating effects of The Great War

SPRING NEWSLETTER 2015 – ‘Robin Moore’s Pilgrimage of War and Words’ offers a message of history and peace for the good of charity raising £1125.

The cheque presentation held at The Angel Inn, Oundle represents fundraising from Robin Moore’s Pilgrimage of War and Words which commemorated WW1 in September/October 2014. The walk also marked a completion of his expeditions around Europe and the British Isles covering over 25,000 miles. He has walked in other continents too and around several countries exceeding in all 30,000 miles including Barmy Army Cricket Tours (he was a founding member at Adelaide in 1995 when England won the test match to keep the series alive for the last game at Perth). As well as his passion for cricket he enjoys the countryside and history and has always been an extreme athlete with a love for sport too.
It was an interest as a youngster in the 60’s to recognise the sacrifice of those who fell in the Great War and Robin knew many WW1 veterans (including his grandfather and great uncle) at his home at The Angel Inn Oundle where he grew up; he will soon be publishing a book about his amazing journey. ‘Although the quest goes on with many walks planned for the future we still need time to reflect on the past which has also seen the end of a personal era too. My Auntie Marjorie, who died recently at the age of 91, was one of my greatest supporters and friends also donated generously to the Cancer Charities after my Uncle Eric died of the disease in 2000.’ As well as helping Robin, she recently pledged £10,000 to Macmillans, £10,000 to her local charity; also £264 was raised at the funeral service for one of Robin’s fundraising charities from his recent walk, Sue Ryder Care. Other organisations that benefited from the expedition are Prostate Cancer UK; The Cornwall Hospices and Cancer Research UK. The WW1 Walk was set up originally for a local Cancer Appeal in Peterborough, PCTA which is largely fronted by friend Mark Folgate of Oundle who is the Fundraising Executive and major supporter of the charity. Robin’s expedition helped raise awareness for the charity and his book will be dedicated to the appeal.

Extracts of the book are printed below (historical content refers the first year of the Great War) For more about the wonderful life of Marjorie Jones please click on CANCER CHARITIES when you visit: http://www.robin-moore.co.uk

ROBIN MOORE’S PILGRIMAGE OF WAR AND WORDS
Geneva to Ypres – WW1 Walk – September 2014
PROLOGUE
‘The Early Shots’
August 1914 saw the Battle of Mons,
As Britain and Germany sent fourth their sons,
Soon to be cannon fodder and casualties of war,
Shedding blood on a scale never seen before.

Reeling through France came the British retreat,
Shielded by the cavalry who turn up the heat,
Those gallant equestrians, adrenalin-fed,
Push back the big guns till all are dead.

But the Kaiser’s war machine continues to roll,
Crushing forests and towns as the guns take their toll,
Gone are the romance and glamour of war,
Replaced by trenches, barbed wire and gore.

Gas, gas, gas a ‘Tommie’ cries,
As the Battle of Ypres takes on a new guise,
The Prussian Guard advance strong and steady,
Like a ceremonial parade, but with guns at the ready.

The British fix bayonets and the guard are speared,
Fighting hand-to-hand till the woods are cleared,
By dusk the guard lie dead in great knots, swathes and heaps,
For them the war is over in this first battle of Ypres.
Poem by Robin Moore.
Dedicated to those who fell in the first year of the Great War.
Commemorating WW1 a century on, Robin Moore sets off on a 1000km trek across Switzerland, France and Belgium which will complete a circuit of Europe and the British Isles. Read how his adventure unfolds each day and learn about the historical places of interest he encounters.
CHAPTER 1
Dominant Mountains That Preside Over Europe
Geneva to Hotel Bellevue, Gex
Starting my walk from Geneva city centre, I make my way to the great lake which borders France and Switzerland; then after running a video commentary near the ferry port and fountain, I continue beside the water. It is a perfect late September day; sunshine with a breeze from Lake Geneva allowing a pleasant initiation to this historic walk. Although the war did not affect this region I planned to start here so as to link this expedition with my previous one in March when I walked from Geneva to Arles. A century ago WW1 was well underway having commenced in August; The First German Army had already penetrated the borders at Belfort and Luxembourg; then spilling all across Belgium. By the end of September they had taken Liege, fought the BEF at Mons and the French on the Marne. These places I hoped to see a week or so from now but for the time being I am pondering all sorts of thoughts about weather, what I will see along the way and where I will stay each night. As the journey unfolds, I pass through several small parks, occasionally stopping to absorb the changing scenery and around noon I take a cycle route away from the lake towards the mountainous French Border. The road becomes busy though broken frequently by colourful towns and occasionally my gaze is drawn towards the sky where air traffic is in motion too. I am 5 km from the next village when a local walker joins me; he is astonished when I tell him I am walking to the Menin Gate! He shuffles off quietly on reaching his destination and after continuing to the end of the village I seek help from a hotelier who points me towards France. In the distance lie the Jura Mountains which I feel will test me over the coming week. Soon I cross the border, and with little to get excited about other than a sign post marked ‘France’, I continue uphill towards Gex. It is an arduous trek in the heat as I struggle with a 50lb load, and lack of sleep at the airport the previous evening also adds to the discomfort. Once I am confident of my route I start to feel much better and on my last ascent, which sees me only 27km from Morez, I decide to take refuge at Hotel Bellevue. it is a large building owned by an enthusiastic ex-marine commando whose father fought at Verdun during the Great War. He shows me his father’s picture and medals and later I begin writing my book with a beer on hand while the bar maid tells her local patrons of my endeavours.
Hotel Bellevue, Gex to Morbais
Starting in hot sunshine I continue my ascent across the Jura Mountains; there are no war monuments or battle fields here – just a slow grind through steepling countryside as the towns and villages of yesterday disappear behind a curtain of mist. Even traffic flows by at a leisurely pace and the lorries chug along cautiously as the journey evolves by way of the narrow pass. It is an laboured affair during the morning where at times the diverse terrain reminds me of New Zealand with its collaboration of forest and stern peaks. The afternoon brings respite with a cool descent beyond the St Claude Junction; by now I am hitting towns regularly and make use of the facilities available to enjoy a coffee break and the chance to pick up a few provisions.
At La Cure I rouse some curiosity as I deposit my backpack on a park bench outside the Tourist Office, change my socks and eat a sandwich. Soon I have an audience comprising of a touring party who had seen me walking earlier; after explaining the purpose of my journey I show them my WW1 passport and a publication about a recent expedition. After wishing me well they depart and their distant waves see me on the way to Les Rousses and later Morez where I purchase groceries for tonight’s supper. A further ascent along a busy road section completes my day at the campsite in Morbais. Although the amenities are now closed for this season the club owner allows me to stay the night and I am able to purchase a drink from the Bar Brasserie known as ‘Chez Nous’, where the locals are enjoying some lively banter amid the smoky atmosphere of a ‘barbie’. After completing the final day’s entry in my diary amid a background of contemporary disco music, I retire to a more peaceful location beside the campsite stream.

Bar Brasserie ‘Chez Nous’ Morbais to Veiux Chalet Champagnole
Rising to a dew-soaked morning I roll up the tent and take a shower at the wash room which is still unlocked despite the closure of the site. A cooler start makes walking bearable as the continuation of steep ascents set the tone for the day. The first few days of any walk always present a challenge but I am grateful to find this route is broken nicely by interspersing villages. As the road narrows the terrain becomes more demanding and yet diverse affording sheer drops of many hundreds of feet; it is awe-inspiring peering down onto treetops as they disappear into a bottomless chasm. Reaching the next summit I stop at a park to relax in the shade and study my map. Recommencing my walk I dodge more traffic by crossing the road at each bend and take in the changes of terrain as each new town approaches. Reaching Champagnole I collect groceries and beyond the town, not far from my next route, I stop at a public park and camp for the night; there is a terrace of houses on a suburban lane where I hear a party celebration in progress. Next to the park entrance is a shop where I buy a bottle of wine and ask the owner to uncork it. Sitting on a bench by my tent I eat a supper of cheese, olives and salad washed down with wine as dusk closes in across the mountains and all becomes quiet beneath the stars.

Veiux Chalet, Champagnole to Samson
Rising to bright sunshine I dismantle my tent, use the toilet facilities at the park entrance and then proceed along the main road to the Salin Junction. This section follows minor roads throughout the morning and with little else open on a Sunday, I take my first break at a restaurant in Salin-le-Bains. From here the heat is unbearable though the scenery, comprised largely of forest mountain landscape broken by a spectacular viaduct, and the audio presence of running water help serve as a delightful opiate. As the traffic dies down the sound of jingling bells from ascending cattle add a different tune to the journey. En route I meet another traveller who had passed me earlier in a car heading for Champagnole; he hails from Verdun and speaks good English. Intrigued by my quest he takes photos and a video which he posts on his Youtube/Facebook pages to give me a bit of support and hopefully some media coverage for our charities. Before departing he hands me some fruit and a bottle of water; then wishes me well for the remainder of my trip. As evening draws close, I meet a group who also supply me with water and an offer to camp by their recreation centre where their friends are playing bowls. Feeling that the day is incomplete, I thank them for their trouble and press on to the next village called Samson. On arrival I am fortunate to purchase cheese and wine from a grocer shop (Bulangerie Courtois) which is about to close, and a further 2km north of the village I camp at a field beside the road. I find a sheltered spot near the hedgerows which conceals me from the public eye. Feeling satisfied with my effort I relax
with my provisions and listen to the sounds of dusk as a new world comes to life.

Samson to Rioz
Disappearing off the radar at dusk is quite important when camping rough in order to rest and recuperate sufficiently to gain a few hours sleep.
A misty morning brings cooler air as I tackle the busy main road with caution. It is a tedious session and I am glad of a coffee break at Larnod around 11.30am. Sitting outside the cafe, I enjoy a few moments as a spectator. It is a pleasant interval watching the world go by as people greet each other with an embrace and friendly chat. I ponder over the reality that there would have been many young men recruited for WW1 from these rural parts of the continent. I wonder too what the bar conversation of that time would have entailed as these little meeting places have always been the soul of a community. Soon the road beckons and I prepare to return to the task. The next ascent exposes me to distant river scenes and before entering the urban sprawl of Beure I stop at a lay-by to rest from the speeding traffic. Sadly the second part of the day disintegrates as the road network becomes complex around the industrial realms of Besancon. After taking a wrong turn I receive directions from a lady at a nearby school and descend to the outer regions of town. Soon I am walking on the main road to Vesoul having failed to locate the byway I need to keep on course to Combeaufontaine. A sense of apathy creeps over me as I fear the momentum of today may be lost along this dangerous highway. Continuing in fear for my life and with motorway instructions imminent, I am relieved to reach Rioz by nightfall. After an extensive ‘reccy’ I realise there is nowhere to stay; so I put up a bivvy outside the campsite which is closed, and fetch a takeaway meal from the only place that is open in town.
CHAPTER 2
A Countryside Devoid Of Time
Rioz to Combeaufontaine
Sleeping through sheer exhaustion and uncertain what to do, I visit the police station for help. They are great! Once issued with a coffee they give me a route planner to cover the next 2 days which promises a rural journey along the quieter byways/cycle routes as far as Jussey. Then after receiving an official Brigade De Gendarmerie stamp on my WW1 passport, I set off in good stride, feeling grateful for their efforts to help me. The route takes me through the remainder of the town and passes under the motorway where it bears left by a country park to join the D33. As the day unfolds I begin to appreciate a pleasant scenic journey through rural France in contrast to the initiation along the steep mountain pass, and mad motorway of yesterday. This more refined route allows me passage through many small villages such as Fondremond with its old abbey and unique water features; later I visit Maizieres and Traves where I am happy to enjoy my coffee breaks amid a rural atmosphere. I even stumble across a Camino de Santiago route which interacts with some of the more ancient communities. There are lone bridges and wide river crossings; archaic buildings with eloquent gardens and festooned streets prompting me to make good use of my camera. On reaching the quaint little town of Combeaufontaine I pick up some groceries, and with the hotel closed for renovation, I set up camp 2 km north of the village in a paddock beside a forest.

Combeaufontaine to Lamarche
The early morning pattern of mist continues as I dismantle my tent and wander carefully along the road. The one problem I face today is obtaining enough water and provisions in these rural parts where it seems that the inhabitants live with a degree of self-sufficiency. Passing through numerous communities over the last week I notice allotments, small-holdings and farm shops which open only in the morning; though later today I manage to get adequate supplies at Jussey. After obtaining road information from the Tourist Office, I visit the cenotaph which is the most conspicuous so far, revealing the names of the war dead who had fought in great campaigns such as Verdun, Le Marne and the Somme; monuments such as this will be commonplace throughout the remainder of my journey. Resting at a bench near a road junction I eat a salad meal which I purchased from the local supermarket; at present the town is a lively scene of folk shopping and socialising in restaurants and cafes. Jussey is an unusual, yet welcome break in this quiet, rural section of my walk which gives more of an insight into farming traditions. With each road spurring off to a new destination I continue into the wilderness not seeing another shop or restaurant for the remainder of the day. There are moments too when I feel as though this countryside has transported me back to a former age – devoid of change or the passage of time. Only speeding motors and farm machinery betray the secrets of an environment where people enjoy their allotments and orchards which have kept them self-sufficient for generations. Nearing dusk a group of youngsters at a small village direct me to a tap by the church where I obtain fresh water. Later on course for the final 6km to Lamarche they track me down on bicycles to give me a king size water bottle for the night. It is as though they know I am facing a tough evening and I am quite taken back by the kindness – it is the highlight of the day – God bless them.
Lamarche, like all that preceded it since Jussey, is another dead place – rundown hotels which are closed – no sign of life any where, and on leaving the town I quickly find a quite spot near the woods to set up camp for the night.
Lamarche to Neufchateau
I am shattered having completed a week on the road at 12 hours per day with each night under canvas – I need a proper sleep! The dew fell heavy over night but as the mist clears the day heats up draining me as I struggle to obtain water. Eventually I manage to acquire a bottle at a farm where the owner also gives me some fruit for sustenance. I only have a 37km walk today but the heat and lack of food make it slow work. Reaching a village fountain I leap into the water to cool down and enjoy a good soak. The locals appear bemused though I try to explain it is more pleasurable to do this now than at 6am – though I did summon enough courage to attempt a shave in a water butt one chilly morning! Life on the road is full of innovations where good health and survival are the only way forward. Rejoining the road I stop to ask a local couple for water; they kindly invite me into their garden for a drink of freshly squeezed apple juice curtesy of their orchard while I explain my quest and what it has so far entailed. They are astonished to feel the weight of my pack – ‘Vingt kg?’ exclaims the lady! After bading farewell I make good progress along the industrial perimeter of Neufchateau, reaching the town centre by 5pm where I promptly book into the local hotel, Le Rialto – 52euros. The lady signs my WW1 passport but refuses to give any discounts – explaining that they were reserved for those with Camino de Santiago credentials. At least I enjoy a proper night’s rest with the promise of a breakfast in the morning.
Neufchateau to Vaucouleurs
After a night in a hotel I actually feel more tired than usual and after my breakfast I struggle in the heat. I make hard work of the morning session to Domremy but enjoy a good coffee which is a boost to morale. After the break I get into a steady rhythm and the afternoon drifts by amid the drone of harvest machinery as farmers toil to make good the land. Reaching Vaucouleurs I pass an old military hospital founded in 1916 for the soldiers of Verdun; a few metres on is a cenotaph and a brightly coloured mural decorating part of the church. It is early evening and I feel as though I can press on further, but wary of the previous times when short of provisions I opt to visit the supermarket first to get food and refreshment. From here I am content to walk a few km beyond town where I set up camp on the edge of a forest next to a road junction.
CHAPTER 3
Poignant Reminders Of The Great War
Vaucouleurs Region to Rouvrois Sur Meuse
Starting in heavy mist I concentrate hard for the first 10 km and cross a bridge into Void where all is still quiet on this Saturday morning. Not able to get coffee I press on to Commercy and enjoy a bustling market scene which to a ‘man of the road’ is a breath of fresh air. Feeling energised by the moment I walk through the slender streets to the beautiful town centre and its lofty architecture. Here I take coffee and marvel at the crowds thinking to myself that Commercy most definitely lives up to its name. Before pressing on to St Mihiel I visit a war cemetery harbouring those who fell in the battles of the Marne, Meuse and Verdun – here I get my first glimpse of the effects of WW1. Battles raged on around these parts throughout the Great War where the Germans came within 50 miles of Paris. So desperate was the plight of the French that commander-in-chief, General Joffre hired every cab in Paris to rush troops to the front line. This drastic action enabled him to successfully launch a counter-attack along the River Marne on 4th September 1914 which halted the German war machine. Sadly though, the great French dreams of a triumphant offensive to end the conflict did not come and the misery of trench warfare followed with pointless combat in ‘No mans land’ until the end of 1918. Beyond here are many places with war graves but few with shops though I manage another at coffee at a bar and later a cake at St Mihiel. Along the way there are more cenotaphs and memorials to the Great War; most significant is the Roman Camp at St Mihiel which was taken by the Bavarians despite brave fighting from the single unit left there to guard it; it was later freed by General Pershore during a Franco/American offensive. Beyond the town is another war cemetery and a tablet on a hill defining the battle at Troyan Village in September 1914. Six miles on I find the only hotel between St Mihiel and Verdun thanks to the help of a local lady. Merci beaucoup!
Auberge du Chaudron Fleuri to Verdun
I am glad of a good sleep at the hotel and keep some of my supper for this morning’s breakfast realising that there are so few facilities out in these rural parts. Today is also Sunday and a wet one at that as I walk all the way to Verdun ticking off the cemeteries en route and trying to imagine the scenes of battle along the Meuse. Over a hundred years ago tanks would have rolled through broken woods towards the river against the sound of cannon fire and machine guns. Today could not be more contrasting as the landscape presents a peaceful arable scene that bears the solitary murmur of a tractor. Only the weather identifies with history in that the day stays damp and miserable as it may well have been a century ago. Reaching the outskirts of town I begin to wonder when I will come across a place to enjoy a coffee! Joining the thoroughfare I find a solution to the problem at Macdonalds where I also tuck into a cooked meal – burger and chips and use the wifi system to upload my video diary– good old Uncle Ronnie!
Heading into town I pass the spectacular Hotel de Ville accentuated by its bold, sumptuous facade. Further on I find a grocer shop that is open and later visit the Tourist Office where the attendant stamps my passport and provides information about the town’s war history. Continuing across the river to the gated town entrance I watch a boat race reach its conclusion amid enthusiastic cheers along the river bank. Passing through the gated entrance I see a different section of the town which is largely commercial with modern shops, restaurants and a few dated buildings; most of these are residential interspersed by several reasonably priced hotels. On the whole this is an ideal base for war historians wishing to explore one of the most catastrophic theatres of war ever known.Tourism here is largely derived from the devastation of the Great War which has intrigued so many over the last century. Some are drawn here to find lost relatives who fought in the campaign; others visit to try to make sense of the huge loss of life which occurred during what was the most modern war of its age. The whole region conveys a poignant message and as the night continues I pass more cenotaphs and a vast war cemetery where the visual evidence of a desperate struggle is quite conclusive – those who fought here knew real hardship and suffering! As the white tablets fade in distance dusk approaches bringing more wet weather. Finding a field suitable for camping I descend to the woods where I stay dry and free from the noise of traffic. A mackerel salad accompanied by a drop of wine finally caps off the day helping me to drift into a deep slumber for the remaining hours of darkness.

Verdun Region to Inor
Waking after a night of rainfall I make the most of the clear visibility in the morning and later obtain a coffee at a bar near Charny around 10am. The bar which is next to a park attracts a few visitors, and the locals express curiosity at the sight of ‘a lumbering backpacker’ in pursuit of his quest. After exchanging greetings the patrons enjoy looking at my passport stamps while I take a wash and shave in the disabled toilet. As it turns out this is the one and only opportunity to have a coffee break as the trend of no facilities continues; during the last week I have come across many places closed for renovation, sale or simply brought to a standstill through lack of trade. Even at the town of Dun sur Meuse everything is either closed or under repair and the only place I can obtain water is the chemist! Eventually my efforts are rewarded at Stenay where I find a supermarket and buy all I need for tonight. A few miles on at Inor I finish at the campsite where a night under canvas costs only 4euros. I speak to another traveller from Germany who is also visiting the battlefields. I had seen my fill of cemeteries over the last few days including a German one which I located along the D964 earlier this morning. Unlike the white tablets that represent the Allied soldiers of the Western Front, this cemetery contains rows of black crosses. Inscribed on a plaque is the story of their demise and there is a memorial to them above the steps to the entrance. After a further chat with the proprietor I cross the road to the local pub and write up my diary on what turns out to be the most productive day on tour so far – realising over 50km.
Inor to Sedan
During the night torrential rain forces me to abandon tent and take refuge in the wash room. Packing a wringing wet tent and clothing is not the best start to the day and my initial steps along the road lack the normal enthusiasm that I need to meet this challenge. The nightmare continues as rain and traffic disrupt the journey, though I pass through some historic places which helps break up the monotony; Mouzon with its medieval archway entrance and wonderful church add a depth of history dating back 2000 years. Although a bit autumnal I enjoy my visit consuming raisin bread and milk beside the river; after I follow the bank back to my main road route via the D954. Occasionally I stray from my route and take a village trail; this is usually counter-productive yet often necessary to relieve myself from the stress of traffic. The last two days have seen many beautiful water scenes where tributaries form from waterfalls and canals spur off the river following the course of the road through more towns and villages. For a while I get a chance to walk close to the river bank; I stop at a lock gate to eat some chocolate and later watch fishermen casting from a bridge. A shoal of large chub in the shallow water catch my gaze and I shout across to the fishers to cast further out. Another place dominated by water (and once again from the sky too) is Sedan, my destination for today, where I am fortunate to find a municipal campsite. Although closed the care-taker does not object to me setting up camp under the games area where I can at least stay dry! He and his wife wish me well and give directions for tomorrow’s journey which will take in the busy region of Charleville Mezieres.

Sedan to Bourg Fidele
The pattern of wet continues and I promptly stop for coffee at a sports cafe on the edge of town where todays travels begin. I use the facilities for a wash and shave then from here I toil on through the suburban areas of Charleville Mezieres stopping three more times for coffee to take refuge from torrential rain. I pass through Flize which on a good day may have been a bit more inspiring instead of wet and grim like all else today. As my journey finds momentum I notice a burnt out house along the thoroughfare to Charleville but on reaching the town centre I am pleasantly surprised by the spectacular architecture which sets it apart from the rundown towns of previous days. I pause for a while to savour a moment before heading into many more miles of countryside and diminutive communities. In pouring rain I search for the exit from this busy city as teatime traffic nears its peak. The weather does not ameliorate as I march beside the puddled carriageway but by early evening I locate the correct junction and take the D22 to Renwez. It is a quieter affair along the country road where the only significant landmark is an old fortification at Erat. Finally I reach Renwez where to my horror the only hotel I have seen all day is closed! All too often nearing dusk I find myself in this predicament – particularly on this current expedition and with more wet weather imminent I face the prospect of camping in a muddy forest. This I do several miles on but eventually the storm that has stalked me all day finds its quarry and my tent fills with water soaking everything. Now in total darkness I am subjected to a cold, wet and sleepless night.
CHAPTER 4
The Last Charge
Bourg Fidele to Chimay
The nightmare continues and I can barely keep my eyes open as I decide which items of equipment are no longer serviceable. The tent is of no further use and was in any case just a glorified ‘bivvy’ used normally in summer months; I also scrap some of the more worn clothes that are too sodden to dry. Finding a bakery en route I purchase a ham roll and ponder over my predicament; at least I will be crossing the border into Belgium soon. On this note I press on to the next village where I am escorted to a sports cafe by 2 cows – probably an early milk delivery! Cafes in Europe are deemed social places where all visitors are made welcome! They peer through the door and soon gather an audience as we tolerate their company long enough to take photos. After my coffee I march them up the road as far as the square where they stop to investigate a new curiosity. Happy to leave them to their own devises, I continue my adventure in the direction of Rocroi. There are roadworks near the town entrance though thankfully the thoroughfare is more intriguing defined by numerous flags, elaborate features and eye-catching monuments to the left. After visiting the Tourist Office at Rocroi it rains again, so I retire to the Hotel de Commerce to write my diary with the aid of more caffeine. Rain eventually subsides and I move on from the town; the terrain remains typically rural and in the afternoon I pass Le Cafe de La Frontiere and cross the border into Belgium. The road is quiet with only a few broken communities and rundown hotels. Joining the main road I make steady progress to Chimay where I purchase groceries (still French-speaking) but have difficulty in finding anything that resembles an hotel; on making an inquiry at a local residence the family kindly offers to let me stay the night.
The lady is a nurse who works nightshift and her son who speaks good English is planning a walk with his girl friend in Spain. Later his father arrives and we chat and drink as I explain how far I have walked during the last 20 years. They are a very kind family who extend their hospitality to sharing their meal with me which I am very grateful for. Despite a rude awakening to the day, I sleep well tonight knowing that my faith in humanity has been well and truly restored.
Chimay to Mons
My hosts had dried my damp clothes overnight and this morning give me a good breakfast before setting off on an ambitious journey to Mons which revisits the early days of Britain’s WW1. To mark the occasion we take photographs at the house and then I visit the local market to video the activities as the day gets underway in good stride.
Well the task of reaching Mons which is 58km from here seems a little unrealistic yet I feel confident I can get close and should in any case find a hotel along the way by dusk. The morning goes well stopping at Beaumont (26km) at lunch; this vibrant town has many facilities and a good social forum, though it is far too early to stop. I do however rest at a cafe and contemplate the next part of the journey wondering what new experiences lay in wait. Excited about reaching Mons, I enjoy the following session ticking off all the villages thereafter. The Kaiser’s violation of Belgium’s Peace Treaty saw Britain’s enter WW1 and during that time my grandad and great uncles all joined up serving in Northampton Regiments. My grandad, Charles Thurlby was only 14 but like many others altered his age and fought his first battle a year later in Constantinople. My great uncle Ben who owned a scrap yard in Oundle was gassed during a France/Belgium offensive. Ben survived and lived in a caravan at his yard well into his seventies until being attacked and robbed by youths; he died shortly after. Charlie fought again in WW2 but died in the sixties through poor health – predictably the wars had taken their toll. Other family members were killed in the Great War and there were many people I knew from Oundle who fought in these campaigns. One man Billy Duke who lived in a hut beside a paddock used to help my parents at the pub and later lodged with our neighbours. Then there was ‘Nobby’ Smith from the ash cart lorry who lived well into his nineties. What ever future life evolved beyond the trenches these men could never hide the scars borne from this dreadful war; most would have found it too difficult to talk about. Inspired by their brave deeds I soldier on feeling grateful to be here and finding a fruitier by the roadside I purchase bananas and an orange. I am able to pick apples most days as the trees still bear fruit which provides a welcome treat along the way. As darkness approaches I struggle on expecting to find a hotel but realising that I had yet to find one that is open in Belgium! Before long I am entering Mons next to the cenotaph laid by the British and Canadians at the end of the war. Mons was the first battle fought in WW1 by the British who quite literally stumbled on the positions of The First German Army. Their infantry came on in great numbers but where gunned down by the fusiliers of the BEF who had been trained in rapid fire and use of machine guns. The success was short-lived and German artillery fire sent the BEF reeling back through France all the time screened by the cavalry whose bravery and altruism helped preserve the BEF as a fighting force in the field. Four years on in this bloody campaign the German war machine was finally halted and the assailants kicked out of Mons by the Canadians who made a valuable contribution throughout the Great War. Across the road I pass an Irish Cenotaph and continuing into the centre I see many epitaphs and personal reminders of the War. Around midnight I come across the only hotel in this part of the city – priced at 100euros – no thanks! Instead I find a park with a lovely dry spot under a conifer which shelters me from the dew and feeling grateful for comfort I drift into slumber.
Mons to Tournai
Having overslept I amble to a nearby cafe which is opened early to accommodate the Saturday market. This is the only commercial activity I come across as I begin to focus on the day ahead. In fact it transpires to be an even later start as the town is not open for business until after 10am; I need food and the tourist office before I depart from here! Eventually I purchase a breakfast at ‘Uncle Ronnie’s and obtain adequate directions for the last section of my walk from the Tourist Office. Leaving in torrential rain I pass through November 11th Street, onto Parc Road and then join the N50 to Tournai. Slow and arduous is how I describe it as the road transforms into a trickling stream though I am lucky to find a cycle path by the river which I use for part of the way. A huge barge passes by and I think to myself ‘Don’t see many of those frequenting the River Nene.’ The width of the vessel would almost certainly breach both banks of our little country river unlike the waterways here which compare to crossing an ocean. Water is certainly in vast quantity for all concerned along this present route, and when the sun finally appears at Bescecles around 4pm I still face a further 20km to Tournai. Stressful it becomes too! Feeling miserable, I remind myself why I am here and think of those who marched before me a hundred years ago. It is difficult to imagine the horrors of war and what they had to put up with, but soon my problems pale into insignificance. Eventually the rain abates and I manage to buy a fish supper 6km from Tournai. On arrival it is the same old story- no hotels/hostels and so I retire to yet another conifer tree in a park opposite a shopping centre; it is the best option given the circumstances. Surrounded by mud, the tree droppings at least provide a dry surface to lay on, while the density of the branches conceal me from main road traffic and late night party dwellers. Given these advantages and the ebbing flow of traffic I manage to steal a valuable ‘forty winks’ in the warmth of my sleeping bag.
Tournai to Roncq
Waking to the commotion of a Sunday Market at Tournai, I join in the fun at a nearby cafe which is presently a hive of activity and commerce. Feeling invigorated by the experience I make my way out of town filming some of the majestic architecture which gives the place its character. Having survived the Great War, ancient and modern blend well in these parts; all the old world cafes have embraced technology and I have no difficulty in constructing a facebook video diary along the way. The road is a less dramatic affair as I tick off the villages en route, find the necessary ‘pit stops’ for coffee and treat myself to a meal after crossing the border into France. I am now bound for Roubaix where I hope to reconnect my journey through Flanders via the Menin Road. Reaching the urban swirl I continue along the busy streets which are a mix of rundown flats and fast-food facilities in what appears to be a largely Muslim Community. I see a cloaked man walking barefoot in the road as he tries to avoid a raucous crowd – it is busy here with many intersections to cross. My journey slows down for a while but eventually I reach Tourcoing where the streets are a maze of captivating architecture. After finding a grocer shop and purchasing provisions, I feel as though the day is near its end. Unable to find a receptionist at a nearby hotel, I take on another section which at least ensures my route to Menin. I stumble down a hole in the embankment and damage my hamstring; continuing lamely I am fortunate in finding a budget Hotel-Premiere where I feel happy to retire for the day. It is only 40 euros including breakfast so at last I can relax, attend to my injury and enjoy the comfort of a bed having walked 150 km for the privilege of sleeping in it!
Roncq to Ypres
Leaving the Premiere Inn after a substantial buffet-style breakfast I walk the N8 to Warelgem which provides reasonable passage despite being under siege from commuter traffic. Bearing left at Warelgem, I cross the road bridge and I walk into Menin. Promptly finding a restaurant I enter for coffee and attempt to chat with a few of the locals; one of the guys, called Jules Coppelle, had spent time in Canada in the 60′s and still speaks good English. He buys me another coffee and takes a photograph to mark the occasion as we continue to chat. Leaving the cafe around noon my journey takes shape along Iuper Street which leads me out of Menin as I follow my course through Flanders Fields. There are now pavements to walk on and a few villages en route; eventually we encounter the Ypres Salient where I visit a cenotaph on the right. A bit further on is a museum containing Great War relics and archives; opposite is a cemetery harbouring many of those who fought in the last battles of 1914. The contestants of this battle front where the BEF who had regrouped at Zonnebeke and stiffened up with Commonwealth troops against the hand picked elite Prussian Guard who had pledged victory or death. It is said the guard came on magnificently – almost as if they were on a military parade; only mortality defied their courage as they fell in their ranks against the murderous machine gun fire of the British Fusiliers. This was a do or die battle to save the Channel Ports and it is impossible to imagine the carnage and consequences resultant from this desperate struggle which only served to widen the conflict. The chaos of backup troops arriving to the front line with the guard breaking through the forest; officers panicking as they try to lead counter-attacks to clear the woods. Hand to hand fighting continued with bayonet and pistol until finally dusk fell upon the victorious remnants of the BEF who had managed to hold their positions; before them lay the guard dead in great swathes and heaps. It should have been the end of the war but instead battles raged on until 1918; new weapons were employed; gas, high explosives laid by tunnellers and the discovery of the tank added to the misery of the ‘tommies’ life on the front line. Despite the innovations of a new age, tactics often remained dated as old generals steeped in Crimea and Boar War history blundered there way to the battle fields. The romance of war, deeds of gallantry and childhood dreams of adventure soon disappeared beneath the mud and barbed wire of Flanders Fields. Young men were wrenched from theirs families and propelled into a war that was fought in Hell. All along the Menin Road I saw poignant reminders of the Great War and a mile from Ypres, by a Commonwealth Inn I take an excursion to Hill 62 at Zillebeke where the Canadians fought battles between 1914-16. Passing Wood Cemetery I come to a museum which is also a restaurant; further on I find the cenotaph; from here Ypres sits only 2 miles from the field which would have been a sobering concept for the public to deal with throughout the conflict. Returning to the restaurant I chat to the maid about finding a hotel in town and spend a moment savouring the day with a coffee. There are many archives here, and on leaving I take photographs of the artillery outside; then head back towards Wood Cemetery and the Ypres Salient. Finally I conclude my pilgrimage at the Menin Gate where a great lion sits proud above the cenotaph reminding the world of the ultimate sacrifice made for peace. It is a stark paragon showing insight into the oddity of war and yet its true horrors and reality could only ever be known by those who stood in ‘No Man’s Land’. This is the most sacred place on Earth to a military man from the British Empire – an epitaph of epic proportions – one that would require a week to read every name inscribed. The soldiers names are all that remain of them though their souls live on in the heart of Ypres where locals and visitors commemorate their loss each night at the Last Post usually performed around 8pm.
We will remember them – God Bless them always!
EPILOGUE
‘The Apathy of War’
Remembering the mud at Passchendaele
In an Autumn offensive doomed to fail,
The loss of life that came to us all,
In another pointless battle which saw many fall,

My nostrils fill with the stench of death,
And gas too, as I struggle for breath,
Flooded are the trenches in the pouring rain,
To fight a battle here is totally insane,

Finally the guns fall silent offering a peaceful hand,
Now poppies grow tall in ‘No Man’s Land’,
Across the world bells toll with joy,
But whatever happened to our beloved boy,

Where are the young people that we all love,
Are they happy in heaven above,
Taken so young is our greatest pain,
How can our world be the same again,

The war to end all wars came at great cost,
Dynasties shattered and a generation lost,
Our boy will never age nor again march or roam,
For he lies with his pals in Flanders Fields and won’t be coming home.
Poem by By Robin Moore
Dedicated to the soldiers who never came home.

With the last post still ringing through my mind the train journey across Flanders and then Lille to Calais gave me much to reflect on having now completed a 35,000km circuit of the British Isles and Europe. To finish the last leg of this circuit along the WW1 battle fields one hundred years on makes my effort more significant and historically rewarding; I have seen poignant plaques and cenotaphs; learned of the brave deeds of our ancestors who were selfless and altruistic in the face of battle with an undying sense of duty. Even though I have met many of these brave men as a child I could never have envisaged their plight or the misery of the trenches, mud and barbwire. It should have been the ‘War to end all Wars’ but sadly it seems humanity has failed to learn this lesson; or is it simply that we are only capable of solving our problems through conflict. A hundred years on, we can only show deep respect and gratitude for the sacrifice of a generation and pray no such war will visit humanity again.
APPENDIX
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NATIONAL PILGRIMAGES
http://www.oundlepilgrimage.org.uk
http://www.cornishpilgrimage.org.uk
1914 TIME LINE – the opening stages
28th June – Assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand – Austria-Hungary declares war on Serbia.
1st August – Germany declares war on Russia
3rd August – Germany declares war on France
4th August – Germany violates Belgium Neutrality – Great Britain is now at war
7th August – German forces march into Leige
16th August – BEF lands in France and sets up HQ at Amiens
21st August – BEF crosses into Belgium – Private John Parr, aged 16, is the first British casualty at Obourg
22nd August BEF take up positions at Mons – Cavalry Divisions are engaged in battle with the German Hussars
23rd August – The Battle of Mons Salient where the Germans attack on two flanks
Apparition of the ‘Angels of Mons’ follow the BEF in retreat through the Marmal Forest towards Le Cateau
Other Battles
September – Battle of the Marne
November – The First Battle of Ypres
Christmas Day Truce – British and German troops meet in ‘No Mans Land’ to celebrate Christmas.
Follow Robin’s walk from Ypres to Nantes (via Arras/Somme) in part 2 of A Pilgrimage of War and Words.

PERSONAL DEDICATION TO MARJORIE JONES
THE CADBURY’S ANGELS – Celebrating the life and times of Marjorie Jones.
One late day in July saw a new gift of life,
Born to this world that had seen much strife,
The Great War had gone parting families and friends,
But as an old era dies, a new one begins,

Now the winds of change blow quieter here,
Where the folk of Bournville are kind and sincere,
Like a song that celebrates a brand new face,
Comes free spirit and energy that make a good place,

With compassion and love they valued each day,
Forging friendships at work the Cadbury way,
It was a time of happiness, joy and great fun,
Especially for young Marjorie who loved every one,

The old widows of war had a family again,
Working with the young helped ease their pain,
Among chocolate and raisins life was such fun,
On the sports field too, playing cricket in the sun,

As time marched on this community grew strong,
Bolstering the friendships that remained life-long,
‘The Cadbury’s Angels’ they became to be known,
Iconic in a workplace that they viewed as their home,

But people move on just as the world will turn,
And as this song ends we look back and learn,
Not to forget, and treasure dearly those days,
With the Cadbury’s Angels and their fun-loving ways.

Written by Robin Moore as a Tribute to Marjorie’s wonderful life at Cadbury’s where she viewed her friends as an extended family. She will be sadly missed by all she knew – Marjorie we will always remember you. God Bless you.

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